Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys, I have had an ever increasing number of people ask me about tuning their car without going to a dyno. They may live too far away, not have the budget or they simply may want to do it themselves. I have accumulated a few A/F ratio meters over time. I thought to help guys out, I might rent a couple of them out. They are not too expensive to buy, but the maintenance can be relatively high, you have to clean the lambda sensor and perform calibration regularly.

So......

How many would be interested in renting one for a week for say $100? That would cover maintenance and repairs etc. What you would get is;

*a wide band lambda sensor

*long lead to reach to the tail pipe

*a clamp for holding the lambda sensor in the tail pipe

*a meter and controller with sensor preheating for accuracy

*a mount and vacuum cup for attaching the display to the windscreen

*a cigarette lighter power plug & supply

*a full set of intructions

*a laptop interface and logging software to load (not necessary for tuning)

*all mailed out to you in an aluminium case

What you don't get;

*you are doing the tuning, if you damage your engine it's your problem

*if you get busted breaking the road rules, it's your problem

*I don't have time for dial up support, maybe email would be OK though

*insurance, if you break it or loose it, you pay for it

*a lap top, you supply your own, if you want to do logging

*credit, you pay up front and there will be a deposit (not sure how much yet)

*freight, you have to pay both ways, it's light, so $10 should cover almost anywhere in Oz

*instant supply, I only have 2 suitable units and I don't want to buy more. So you may have to wait until one becomes available

*to use leaded fuel, it must be unleaded

* to send it back dirty and greasy, clean it please

*your deposit refunded until it is received in good condition

This is a survey for me to judge the response, so post away. If I get enough interest I will be ready to go in about 3 weeks, as I would have to clean, service and calibrate the 2 units.

Awsome Idea,

I was charged $50 for 15mins of driving up and down the road I was not impressed I didn't get to load it up in top gears only 2nd gear.

Have you got any Second Hand/New ForSale ?

:P

Nat

If its a brand name unit such as the Autronic model, they are expensive, i say make people leave a deposit of $500 bare minimum, just incase something happens.

Because you know what people are like, hopeless.....

If you have a quality unit for hire now, i will hire it immediately.

$100 is a fair price for a week, + return freight/post to you.

You can get some preety good wide band units off the net now for around $500-$600 with controller, which is a great price if you want to tune your own cars.

Let us know either way.

Cheers

sounds like a very good idea :cheers:

Yep, I know it's a good idea, but how many people would actually rent one for a week for $100? That's the question, if I get enough I will do it. We can then start a thread on people's experiences with tuning on road and the results they get. Should make a good reference for others.

I need a few more to make it worthwhile, so let me know:cheers:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Apologies for the long post, but needed somewhere to lay out the entire timeline of events and actions taken:   I've got an 89 GTR with a R34 RB in it. It's been running great all year, driven probably 500KM in the last month. It's not my daily driver, just a weekend fun car.    Build info: R34 RB26 - HKS 2.7 stroker kit, HKS adjustable cam gears, HKS turbo upgrades, Trust intercooler, R34 factory DENSO 440cc injectors, JUN chipped/tuned R32 ECU. All of this work was performed in Japan back in 2019.    Thursday 10/2/25 - It's a nice day and decided I'll drive it to work, I start it up in the garage and I notice it took a few extra cranks and sounded a bit funny. I figure maybe it was just because it was a pretty chilly morning. I pull it out into the driveway to warm up a bit before leaving. As I leave the driveway, it feels very off and sounds like a misfire. I pull it back in the garage to deal with after work and take the daily to work. I was able to diagnose it as a cylinder 5 misfire with the old spark plug test (unplugging each plug until a sound change with the engine running). I take off the whole ignition system, ignitor, plugs, spark. *Important note, it is still on the R32 ignition system with the separate ignitor system. I test each system with a multi-meter and nothing presents as a smoking gun. I put it all back together and it starts up no issue. I go ahead and order the PRP R35 ignition conversion kit. It should arrive today (10/13/25)   Friday 10/3/25 - Another nice day, car starts up great and drives great all day. Very pleased that everything seems to be OK   Sunday 10/5/25 - Decided I'll take it to play some golf, load up and drive to the course about 25 minutes away. Drives wonderful the whole way there, I pull in the parking lot and the engine completely comes to a stop. I do not recall if it sputtered at all, but just remember all of the sudden the engine was off. I roll it into a parking spot, try to crank it back on and nothing.  It'll crank and crank and not even try to start. End up getting it towed back to my house and push it up into the garage.    Items I have checked: Fuel in the tank Fuel Pump relay Fuel pump fuse  Spark Plugs & gap Coil packs Ignitor    I know the cylinders are getting fuel as the plugs smell like fuel after a start attempt. I tried spraying starter fluid into the manifold and cranking and not even a sputter.    I decided to do the live CAS test (removing the the CAS, ignition on and spinning the CAS stalk to see if the injectors pulse and spark is active). All of the injectors were pulsing and I have spark at the plug. The half-moon end of the CAS did seem very loose, I'm not sure how much play is supposed to be there, but it was more than I expected. There was no in/out play of the shaft, just the tip end that is pinned on had quite a bit of play.    CAS Play video   When I put the CAS back in, I stupidly did not re-time the engine. I know I need to do that tonight, however, I do not think it will start given it seemingly was not the issue. My plan is to do the PRP R35 coil kit and retime the engine at the same time.    I plan on ordering the Haltech Nexus Plug-in ECU once they are available again, but ideally would like to get this sorted before firing the parts cannon at it and potentially adding more variables.    Anything glaring that I am missing here, I'm a bit at a loss?          
    • Get it on a dyno. Get something logging Consult. Run it up and find out what is causing it.
    • Looking for a plenum for rb25 de+t neo  Not looking to push much power maybe 300kw at the wheels, is there much difference in flow for Freddy “Greddy style” compared to original Greddy or options like Proflow or Otaku garage?    I won’t be porting the de Neo head for now as I think it’ll be fine 280-300rwkw but appreciate the help and any experiences anyone has between them and any advice. Thanks  Looking at this plenum for now below 
    • engine wise almost no mods: stock ecu Greddy front mount intercooler Greddy forward facing intake w R33 TB stock fuel system, stock injectors, rail etc. Kakimoto racing hyper 3 inch exhaust system Apexi intake filter New NGK –R BCPRES (.8 gap) plugs  
    • Nice one @Pac - looks like a fair few 1600's there! 
×
×
  • Create New...