Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

http://www.allblitz.com.au/cars/95gtst.html

1995 Nissan Skyline GTS-t

- White

- 5 Speed Manual

- HKS Hyper Dragger Muffler.

- Genuine Nissan Alloys, Excellent Tyres.

This car only has 38,000kms - and its Genuine, hasnt been clocked down like most skylines. Inspection a must to believe. This car has hardly been driven. Inside and outside spotless. Engine bay, spotless.

This car is in Mint Condition, and the only mods are the HKS Exhaust.

Price: $17,500

Regards,

Husnu.

Yes it has been complianced, just waiting for the plates to arrive. Should be any day now.

Regarding the proof of km's. I do not have any paperwork, as it did not come with the vehicle. But the vehicle itself is proof. Engine, Interior, Exterior are in Excellent Condition.

Unfortunately, those pictures were taken the day the car arrived from the docks. Engine bay is all dusty, once its given a nice wipe that darky greyish colour will be white.

Our prices are low because we have over 15 R33's in Stock. We dont really get greedy with prices, just like to make quick turnovers.

Regards,

Husnu (Hus).

So i guess the km's are not genuine? Since there is no proof behind it. Doesnt matter because on an import you should even look at the K's becasue obviously 38,000Km/s is bullshit for an 10 year old car

All my cars are genuine km's, never clocked down by myself, or people that i deal with in Japan. You can see the full list of my cars, I have 95', 96' Model R33's with 90,000, 115000kms etc.

This car was bought with those km's and interior and engine is all spotless. I cannot say its 100% Genuine but I can only say what i know and can see.

You could be correct - it could be Bu!!sh!t, I guess it has to be inspected and seen by those interested. Its a very clean car, thats all i have to say : )

find out the fuel economy. the stock 02 sensor dies around 40,000 k's and if its dead it will chew through a full tank in about 250km or under 300 at least. the oxygen sensor is never changed so if its burning through fuel like its going out of fashion then its more than 40,000 at least

Why dont you just get a compression test on it? that should be a proof,

or just look at the significant things on the car.

but a 10 year old car with 38K on the clock somehow doesnt add up, that would mean under 4000 K in a year, i clock that much in a month.

I belive the right figure for all this Imports are when you add a 1 in front of all the numbers.

Im not trying to critisize you 'allblitz' im just looking out for other SAU member as well, I belive you or your dealer didnt wind back the K's, but someone along the line did. And to find out how genuine they are, the buyer should come with the RACV and let them to the compression test on it, they'll know roughly how much its done.

but again, for such a price on a 1995 model, who cares if they are genuine or not, as long as the car and engine is imac.

good luck on selling.

ummm why is it so hard to believe that some cars might not be wound down?

People living in Japan do not live like us nor have the same culture like us in aus.Usually the Japs who own a sports car like a skyline only drive it out on weekends or every blue moon as they do not need it as a main form of transport. The japz have a very advance transport system e.g. the bullet train and just like many asian countries, it is more convienient to take public transport then to actually drive to work, school or around. To clock 4000kms in a year is really not really a big deal also putting into consideration that the roads in japan are a lot shorter then those in Sydney. Putting both factors into consideration, a 95?96? import with low kms is very likely.....Just coz it was manufactured in that year does not mean it was sold in that year and also just cause for most of us our main form of transport to get around here in Sydney is via our skylines does not mean that thejaps do the same thing!

So anyways im not saying that the kms on this particular car is geniune but i dun think its fair to entirely rule out that it mite actually be geniune kms if u think about the facts that i have stated

Ok guys, i think its getting a bit out of hand - the post is to try and sell the car not debate the km's : ) .

I believe I am a very honest person, and I initially believed that these km's were genuine, but at the end of the day, if they are not, then I will make that clear. So i will get some tests done to determine if the cars engine is in a 40,000km condition or not.

Now find me buyers : )

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good luck on the weekend mate
    • Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
    • I wanted to try and preserve the front bumper as long as possible, they're not cheap and are made to order in Japan. Taking inspiration from my previous K11 Micra build where I made an undertray for the Impul bumper, I did the same for this BN Sports bumper but a little slimmed down.  This time round I only made a 'skid plate' (if that's the correct wording/term) for just the bumper surface area, the Micra version covered the gap like an undertray. Starting off with a sheet of mild steel approx. 0.9mm thick 4ft x 2ft in size. I traced around the bumper, cut it out and cleaned the edges. Luckily I was able to get two halves from one piece of metal In the video I installed it as is, but I've since then I've removed it to spray and add a rubber edging trim. The rubber trim is suitable for 1-2mm and it's a really nice tight fit. The bolts had to be loosened due to the plates being too tight against the bumper, the trim wouldn't push on I used some stainless M6 flat headed bolts for a flusher finish (rather than hex heads poking down), I believe this style fastener is used for furniture too incase you struggle to source some. The corner's are a little wider, but this may be an advantage incase I get close to bumping it  The front grill got some attention, finally getting round to repairing it. Upon removal one fixing pulled itself out of the plastic frame, one side is M8 that fixes inside of the frame, where as the other side is M5. Not knowing I could get replacements, I cut down an M8 bolt, threaded it inside the frame along with a decent amount of JB Weld.  The mesh was replaced to match the bumper. One hole on the bonnet/hood had to be drilled out to 8mm to accommodate the new stud, once the glue had set it could be refitted. I think the reason the grill was double meshed was to hide the horn/bonnet latch (which makes sense) but I much prefer it matching the bumper Bumper refitted and it's looking much better IMO The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVZP35io9MA
×
×
  • Create New...