Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 3 weeks later...

I haven't looked THAT much into alarms/immobilisers as mine came with a kick-ass one when I bought it, but I do know you can get alarms and immobilisers that come with a turbo timer built into it :)

that might be an option for you

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/6734-alarm-suggestions/#findComment-108976
Share on other sites

If you wanted to get a tracking device, get Navtrack or Turbotrak (by BRANT) instead of Quiktrak. THey use GPS so work almost everywhere, whereas Quiktrak uses radio so only work in a certain range. I'm also looking at security options for when i get my R32, im hoping a decrease in insurance premium will make tracking worthwhile.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/6734-alarm-suggestions/#findComment-108977
Share on other sites

when u guys say its compatible with turbo timer how do you mean?

how does it work

coz i rang brant and spoke to em and there alarms i dont think are compatible with turbo timers

and

it is illegal to have that function in your alarM?

how would it work by the way

would the car arm as it is on ???

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/6734-alarm-suggestions/#findComment-109136
Share on other sites

what i guessed (dont have a turbo to have a turbo timer,....yet) is that, you know how some alarms arm themselves after a short time when your car is off and the doors are closed? well i think the alarm can be set to arm after the timer has switched off the car.

my alarm doesnt arm automatically so its good when i get a timer i wont need to get my alarm redone :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/6734-alarm-suggestions/#findComment-109140
Share on other sites

I have an autowatch hooked up fine along side my hks TT

basically you can leave the car running close the doors, lock the car and arm the alarm.

once the engine shuts off normally the alarm automatically does the rest of the immobilisitation etc...

if someone breaks in while the car is still running on the tt, as soon as the handbrake drops the engine dies, and alarm goes off.

Seems to be a fairly flawless system..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/6734-alarm-suggestions/#findComment-109235
Share on other sites

Some info I found:

NEMISIS - BRANT'S FLAGSHIP MODEL

Our NEMISIS model is specifically designed for those prestige & performance car owners looking for that extra 'edge'. Price-wise it is at the upper end but delivers a lot of functions and features not available elsewhere.

Features -

Remote codehopping operation

Six (6) inbuilt engine immobilisers

Separate PIN entry operation

External self powered siren

Internal high oscillating siren

Two stage impact detectors

Separate ultrasonic internal volumetric sensors

Passive (automatic) immobilisation

Connection to all doors, boot, bonnet, hatch etc

Keyless entry (if vehicle is fitted with central locking)

Electric boot release facility (if fitted)

Silent and audible on/off signal

Automatic door locking on engine start (no cost option)

Automatic re-arm/re-lock in case of accidental switch off

Mobile installation 6 days a week

Lifetime original owner warranty

Electric window power up operation (optional)

I have emailed them for a price :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/6734-alarm-suggestions/#findComment-109321
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @Kapr Haha yeah thats the one. I missed that you had a built up engine, I wouldn't want to run it on there either then. It was good in my situation just to replace the original turbo on a stock engine. @MBS206Yep definitely not a replacement for anything name brand
    • You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
×
×
  • Create New...