Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have jiggled the wires when warm and it's doesn't not misfire.  IT's series II rb25 so no seperated ignitor.  It's strange it starts to work when the engine just reaches operating temp.

Could be numerous things:

try these.

1st check/replace spark plugs

2nd whilst engine is cold,spray some crc around the intake manifold around the suspect cylinder to check for vacuum leaks. If engine increases rpm you have a gasket leak.

3rd compression test .

Hope this helps.

I've replaced the spark plug, swapped coils, sprayed #6 runner with carb cleaner. Still the same. I'm thinking sticking injector, has anyone had the same issue?. I can hear the injector clicking.

When started the engine will run fine for approx. 3 seconds and then # 6 will drop. #6 will come back as soon as the engine becomes warm. Like as if when it goes to closed loop the problem corrects itself.

possibly, I had a leak until I retorqued the head. It doesn't use anymore coolant and oil is no longer appearing in the coolant. However when i did have the coolant leak it did not have this problem.

When #6 comes back the vacuum reads 15mmhg and when at operating temp will read ~20mmhg. I think that should rule out the hg and compressin of #6

I probably wouldn't worry about it too much unless it's quite major.. all of the RB powered cars I have been in have had a slight hickup at idle every now and then.

Especially if its cylinder 6 at idle, probably has a little less air getting to cylinder 6 from the back of the plenum under low pressure , creating a slight jump.

It may also be to do with the spark plug gap being too short for perfectly smooth idle, but fine for everyday driving and putting the boot in.

it's not just a little miss, the cylinder is totally dead when cold. If i pull the #6 coil plug after warm up, it sounds the same as when the engine is cold. When its starting to work I can hear a little "bump bump bump" sound as the cylinder comes to life.

Swapped stock ecu with pfc with no help

Nothing but problems with this engine ;)

ey i feel ur pain i have a simular problem mine when cold will occasionally do the same

thaught i fixed it with a new coil pack but shorley enough i happening again but once warm snaps out of it and is fine i have also had an engine rebuilt about 5 months ago only happenin now

  • 2 weeks later...

It's driving me nuts...

I changed the fuel injector...no help.

Compression tested.. 140psi, within limits of the other cylinders

pulled coil when running and connected a spark plug.. plug fires

That leaves the Intake gaskets.. has anyone had a misfire caused by it??

  • 14 years later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • LOL, when one "money pit" is never enough Noice, and excellent work mate
    • I have more than enough digging, laying blocks, moving gravel, airrating, feeding and top soiling the grass, and setting up the veggie gardens growing some seedlings,  and then removing all the unused rock to keep me busy for the next few months at least,  hopefully the rain stops soon so I can get a few hours in this arvo, but, before that Sunday is washing day, is every body happy, you bet your life we are Nice country road day drives are a day off whenever I'm muscle sore from all the landscaping at the moment, but, more epic multiple day drives will start once the majority of the big jobs outside are completed
    • I hear that would involve some nice country road drives into the hills for Mark...
    • I thought I'd come back and add something I JUST learned. A Toyota LandCruiser with a 1HZ, mates perfectly with a bottle of Nulon brake fluid. As in, it perfectly screws in. Great make shift funnel when you cut the bottom of it off. This may work for your Corolla.   Unfortunately, tipping a 10L drum is much harder than a 4 to 6L bottle, and they no longer include the easy pour tap which was just perfection to use previously.  
    • Guys since i bought r33 gts25t coupe 1994 automatic a/t(manual swap 350z gearbox)  all i got is problems, always problems. Lets start with that when i turn key into ignition(ON) fuel pump doesnt always works. Sometimes i have to turn key twice Off/on/off/on until it primes. Its new, dw300 - 340lph. My gearbox broke so i did gearbox swap, install different intake manifold, injectors and i take pipes. Car was sitting in garage for more than half a year. I did assembly all not that long ago and when i turn ignition cant hear prime. All of sudden it stopped working. Theres many videos on YouTube how to make relay mod on r33 straight from battery so i did and it doesnt work! 😰 30 - battery positive  87 - positive from fuel pump to relay 85, 86 - one of two wires from original fuel pump wires(light blue, grey) and it didn’t work. so I check on ignition and took original BLUE relays wires from trunk, next to fuses. (I believe it’s IGN+ and ECU pin 18. it didn’t work…  tried connecting (IGN+ from og relay) and (ECU 104 from 1of4 FPCM wires) to my new relay 85/86 and it didn’t work.  I unplug FPCM. Didn’t work. im thinking what’s wrong   fuel pump is working, if I leave IGN+ on 85 and 86 straight to ground it works but it’s just nonstop. Since it getting constant 12v after key in ON. light blue wire gives me 6-8v.  so how this should be connected? What causing ECU not giving — on pin? Or I did sth wrong and that’s why it doesn’t work? I need negative signal on ECU that control fuel pump. What this should be?
×
×
  • Create New...