Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

After finally deciding on a fuel pump i opted for the walbro 255. When i went to get it installed (im too ***** to do it myself) they told me after they installed it they will check the current and may need to install a seperate relay from the battery.

Ive heard that you need to do this with some of the bosch pumps, but is this really necessary, im only going to be running (hopefully) 190~rwkws.

Should i just have them install it, then chuck it on the dyno and if the ratios are fine, not worry? or should i jsut trust them :)?

I just dont want to be ripped off.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/67592-fuel-pump-relay/
Share on other sites

the more voltage that gets to the pump the more it will pump! have seen reports on a VL turbo fuel pump which gave 30% more flow @ same rail pressure when it was given +14V instead of +11 like it usually sees in a VL. the thicker guage wire going to it generally the more voltage it should see, installing a separate relay is probably easier than rewiring the original one.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/67592-fuel-pump-relay/#findComment-1254196
Share on other sites

Like they say, more voltage = better...

however the last two pumps (one walbro, one bosch) I have installed I have had no troubles with the stock wiring at levels below 200rwkw.

I guess if I was pushing the power past that, it would be something to consider. You can always stick a multimeter on it on the dyno at full chat, see what is happening.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/67592-fuel-pump-relay/#findComment-1254229
Share on other sites

You need to be careful when selecting Walbro pumps. As you can see from the attached, the GSS341 is rated at 255 lph, that's at zero boost and at 13.5 volts. If you install one in tank with the standard Skyline wiring it will run at 12 volts, that's 215 lph. Then add some boost, say 20 psi (1.35 bar) and they are down to 180 lph.

flowtest-walbro.gif

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/67592-fuel-pump-relay/#findComment-1254362
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...

which is a better pump?? i need to get a new one but unsure on which one.

I want to try one of these to fix a problem i'm having with detonation......it will not detonate on the dyno but on the street it will randomly detonate. So i was gonna try one of these two pumps.....i currently have a r33 gtr pump installed.....running on the standard r32 gtst wiring. Any ideas would be appreciated.

Should i try a constant power from the battery???

1. bosch 040 intank.....supposedly doesnt need a sock????

2. Walbro 255l intank pump

thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/67592-fuel-pump-relay/#findComment-1381141
Share on other sites

that sounds like an idea i might try, what kind of relay did you use and where did you get it....i'm abit confused on what type to use, and then basically ground the relay......draw power from the battery and the ignition wire from the orginal wiring??? is that somewhere in the ballpark on what needs to be done?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/67592-fuel-pump-relay/#findComment-1381748
Share on other sites

  • 4 years later...

just use the factory fuel pump power wire as the switching power to the relay, and run a new power wire to the relay from the battery,

make sure it will carry the correct voltage over the lenght of the wire, the longer it is the more voltage drop due to resistance,

the size power cable will depend on how much power the pump will draw so get a nice thick one at lease 2.9mm2 core.

earth the relay to body and run power out of relay to pump. The relay packet will show the correct way to wire it up on the terminals.

30AMP relay will do for 1 pump.

Edited by boostn32
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/67592-fuel-pump-relay/#findComment-4960788
Share on other sites

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good luck on the weekend mate
    • Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
    • I wanted to try and preserve the front bumper as long as possible, they're not cheap and are made to order in Japan. Taking inspiration from my previous K11 Micra build where I made an undertray for the Impul bumper, I did the same for this BN Sports bumper but a little slimmed down.  This time round I only made a 'skid plate' (if that's the correct wording/term) for just the bumper surface area, the Micra version covered the gap like an undertray. Starting off with a sheet of mild steel approx. 0.9mm thick 4ft x 2ft in size. I traced around the bumper, cut it out and cleaned the edges. Luckily I was able to get two halves from one piece of metal In the video I installed it as is, but I've since then I've removed it to spray and add a rubber edging trim. The rubber trim is suitable for 1-2mm and it's a really nice tight fit. The bolts had to be loosened due to the plates being too tight against the bumper, the trim wouldn't push on I used some stainless M6 flat headed bolts for a flusher finish (rather than hex heads poking down), I believe this style fastener is used for furniture too incase you struggle to source some. The corner's are a little wider, but this may be an advantage incase I get close to bumping it  The front grill got some attention, finally getting round to repairing it. Upon removal one fixing pulled itself out of the plastic frame, one side is M8 that fixes inside of the frame, where as the other side is M5. Not knowing I could get replacements, I cut down an M8 bolt, threaded it inside the frame along with a decent amount of JB Weld.  The mesh was replaced to match the bumper. One hole on the bonnet/hood had to be drilled out to 8mm to accommodate the new stud, once the glue had set it could be refitted. I think the reason the grill was double meshed was to hide the horn/bonnet latch (which makes sense) but I much prefer it matching the bumper Bumper refitted and it's looking much better IMO The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVZP35io9MA
×
×
  • Create New...