Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Curious if any one knows if i put on after market bigger dump pipes it will increase perforamce and less lag..

Also my car is running very rich im assuming its the o2 sensors would this be the case or could there be another factor causing this.

One more for ya when i run 1 bar or 1.2 bar of boost my car surges is this due to not enough fuel getting there.

any help is much apreacitated,.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/67600-32-gtr-dump-pipes/
Share on other sites

1. Curious if any one knows if i put on after market bigger dump pipes it will increase perforamce and less lag..

2. Also my car is running very rich im assuming its the o2 sensors would this be the case or could there be another factor causing this.

3. One more for ya when i run 1 bar or 1.2 bar of boost my car surges is this due to not enough fuel getting there.

any help is much apreacitated,.

1. R32GTR's have not so good dumps, so an upgrade is beneficial.

2. O2 sensors are irrelevant most of the time, they only run closed loop for idle and cruise. All R32GTR's I have seen benefit greatly from a tune, chip upgrade or ECU replacement (Power FC is the go)

3. Try new spark plugs with gaps at 0.8 mm.

Hope that is of some help:cheers:

do the 32's,33's and 34's have diffrent dump pipes to eachother?

R32 and R33 GTR's basically use the same cast iron dump pipe design and they are a bit restrictive. OTOH R34's use a thin-walled, welded stainless steel construction which have a larger bore and so flow better - definately an improvement, probably similar to some aftermarket designs.

I'm certain that both 33 and 34 dumps are the same. 32 are 60mm, 33 and 34 are 70mm....big difference in total flow.

If you want a set of 34 dumps, Powerplay in Sydney have at least 2 sets second hand

I'm certain that both 33 and 34 dumps are the same.  32 are 60mm, 33 and 34 are 70mm....big difference in total flow.

The R33 ones I had in my hand a few months ago looked identical to my R32 type. I didn't take any measurements, but were certainly the same material. Perhaps late production cars were similar to R34 (?? - shrug).

Anyway the R34 dumps I have now are definately an improvement, no doubt about that.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Don't even try to run it on the stock ECU if you're going to have the boost controller bring boost above ~10 psi. I've already told you that. If you use the Nistune ECU, you will need to CAREFULLY read the available documentation for Neo tuning, and read some threads on the Nistune forums, to discover the various things you have to do to prevent the ECU from going bananas when the boost is too high. The is a table associated with th boost sensor that must be modified to prevent it from shitting the bed. This is just one of the things that you will need to do to the tune in Nistune, because the Neo turbo ECU will be expecting to see a number of things (such as the TCS) that are not there, and you have to block the DTCs on those. It is totally not surprising to me that you are having the problems that you are, but the solutions to these problems have been known for >15 years. So just get it done.
    • Hi. Sry iam not a mechanic and iam not at the car atm so i dont know 100% but they told they measure those and even try to change those. AFM they have two. Coils are new a they have my old one too. Plugs too. ECU...we have 25 NEO stock and Nistune 25 NEO.   But i dont know if any one those could be the problem and why/if/what can cause this, Only thing they did not check is fuel...but that walbro 255 is new(like 1,5 years)... That fuel pressure gauge idk...but i let them know Any suggestions?   EDIT: how can they know if it is like you say he ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high? Tha car has boost controler
    • Can you clarify what you mean by boost cut, do you mean it misfires both when under load (driving) and when stationary and out of gear? Or does the ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high (boost control issue)? Does it occur at idle with no throttle? When you say "the ECU is OK", what ECU is it and why do you think it is OK? Have you used the NEO ECU, and if so do you have a MAP sensor attached? Same for the AFM, why do you think it is OK? Do you have any way to put a fuel pressure gauge on it (even just a mechanical one between the fuel filter and fuel rail)?
    • Hi.. Just another problem. So maybe you can help. I(my mechanic) done swap from my RB20DE NEO to RB25DET NEO. Everything is OK but we have a boost cut. Coils/Plugs are ok...AFM is ok. ECU is ok. I have Walbro 255 but it "changed" sound few months ago(you can hear it ouside) you did not hear that when it was new(maybe faulty?) Sooo...what now? What can cause this boost cut? It is even when you standing still...
×
×
  • Create New...