Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey everyone,

if you have a catch can with only two outlets on it where do you juction into the breathing system on an rb20???

i'm looking at something like this on ebay, seems as good as the rest?

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi...4550437345&rd=1

Thanks

George

  • Replies 160
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Hey everyone,

if you have a catch can with only two outlets on it where do you juction into the breathing system on an rb20???

Thanks

George

Hi George, you can, you just join up the 2 outlets from the cam covers with T piece and use the other can outlet to join into the breather system. It isn't as neat as buying one with the right number of outlets.:stupid:

Hi All,

I have searched and read numerous threads regards oil catch cans and am looking for a bit of direction. Most seem to acknowledge that the standard (cheapie) catch cans are nothing more than a can (no internals) and need to be stuffed with a filter (steel wool / scourers etc) in order to actually do what they are supposed to do - seperate oil from air and catch the oil. There are a couple of catch cans (more expensive- such as the Essential and ARC cans) which replace the washer bottle (GTR's only I think) and apparently do all they are supposed to do. These cost around $400-$500, which isn't exactly cheap. I have also seen the air/oil seperators (cylinder type) which fit across the top of the engine (GTR). From what I've been told, you also need a catch can with these to collect the oil. This type of air/oil seprator and cheap catch can would work out to be much cheaper than the expensive unit "which does it all". Question are-

Is this setup better or worse than the expensive catch cans?  

Do the expensive ones do everything they claim to?

Apart from reducing octane rating and performance, does oil blow back damage anything?

Thanks for your help.

Hi, we make custom surge tanks & breather cans. Can must be baffled so oil runs down to bottom of can & not straight out filter. if you email me at [email protected] i will send you some photos.

  • 2 months later...

I bought one of these from Unique Autosports on the weekend. I was going to buy the GReddy one (big and empty..), but John recommended this:

gtstcatchtank.jpg

It is baffled, and has a big hole up the middle of it (you can see it in the pic), there's a slight gap at the top of this where I think the thing vents to the atmosphere. But because it vents from underneath you can't really see anything "illegal".

Now after reading this thread I think I've installed it correctly, but I'm not sure.

CRW_1063_Medium.JPG

I haven't actually blocked anything off. Should I?

Also, I've left the blue screw in plug (drain) at the bottom of the catch can on.

Did I install it right?

**EDIT: figured out sk's drawings. All fixed now :D

  • 3 months later...

Well although I have an SR20DET, that install looks wrong. You've basically just looped it back into the cam cover again!

What you need to do is join the breathers on both sides together first, so that they _both_ go into the inlet of the catchcan. Then the outlet goes straight to the turbo.

Excuse the crap diagram but I hope you get what I mean;

catch.bmp

Edited by Busky2k
  • 6 months later...

Hi,

Sorry to bring this thread back from the dead but I just have a quick question about the pipe from the passenger side cam cover to the turbo inlet. Is the lump in this pipe a PCV Valve? shown below.

post-13456-1148790456.jpg

Thanks

nar buddy thats the return line to the turbo the same spot but on the other side of the motor ul see a lilttle hose that looks like an s thats the pcv conecting into the head my can is set up with the two hoses cuming of the top like the others but the return line is caped off inside that pipe and on the bottom of the catch can it has a nothere hose cabel tied down agenst the sump as if its going back in to the sump so if the cops look or pull on it it looks conected also the set up with 1 pipe going from the can then back to the return line wots the point in a none race enging bout 90% of wots runing through the lines is vapor witch is runing shit back through the turbo hence sucking in in pure air prity well defeting the pourpes of having a can to start with

Thanks Dave :cheers:

I knew there was a pcv valve on the plenum side just wasn't sure if on the other side it was a PCV Valve or just some re-inforcement for the pipe so it isn't collapsed by the suction. Would I be right in assuming that this inlet pipe is sucking all the time.

I was thinking about installing my can this way. The PCV Valve in between the catch can and the plenum is the one from 'A' on the side of the cam cover. Will just need a male/male hose connection of the right size to replace it I guess. Would be putting a stocking filled with stainless steel wool inside the can too.

post-13456-1148812199.jpg

I had thought about installing it by putting something inside the S-shaped pipe to the plenum and then blocking the turbo inlet pipe. Then running a hose from the passenger side cam cover to one side of the catch can and the 2nd outlet down to near the sump. Just thought if pulled over then I shouldn't have any trouble with the top way.

  • 3 weeks later...

RedDrifter, the only problem with that is if you don't disable the PCV, it'll pull air thru the catch can on light loads due to vacuum and thus you got a nice vacuum leak. I run my catch can atmo from 3 points, and disable the PCV. Works perfect.

pplo, that setup is plain wrong. It doesn't achieve anything.

ok no worries..

just to clarify,, this is what i intend to do ..

the blue pictures are screws showing blocking off the pipe..

with the pcv, im planning to cut it in half (green line) then block off each path (blue screw pics)..

post-29258-1150689843.jpg

would all of this be ok??

thanks!

Edited by pplo

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From my youth: GTi-R clutch change is a massive pain. The gearboxes are fragile? But the car is super cool and I want one 😢 
    • Remember this is 1988 tech.
    • Driveline vibration is resolved. I ended up loosening all my engine mount and trans mount bolts, giving it a good shake then retightening everything and it's gone... Let's just say I was surprised that fixed it.  I've been happily driving it around again but unfortunately put zero time into my direct port/constant pressure WMI setup. I'm on vacation next week, so I'll try and finalize it then.  On a different note, I spent all week fuel/ignition mapping 2x 216L V16 engines. Turbo's were burning glycol and we swapped them out for larger units. We also had planned emissions testing on site, so I figured I'd be there the same week to use their instrumentation and massage any emissions issues out if needed. This was a first for me. Fuel management is similar in certain ways to automotive (i.e air density as load variable) but very different in others. It's all PLC based and AFR's are controlled by air and not fuel. They use a control valve between the turbo and air manifold to control pressure which in turn controls AFR's. Due to this, target AFR tables supplied by the OEM are in pressures and not mass which really through me off. They use air pressure vs fuel pressure tables. I also relied on an O2 concentration sensor the emissions team had in the exhaust. Ignition timing was also all over the place and we were losing a fair bit of power. They're now happily sitting at 16-40BTDC depending on load. We were making about 1600kw at 900rpm at 90% load. Engines were running a lot smoother as well.    
    • heh, aint no R32 ever meeting modern targa cage rules unless the driver is veeeery short OP, good luck with the sale, since its already in the land of freedom I'm sure you will find a good buyer.
    • meh, it was a good video, clear about the issue and how he dealt with it. A bit heavy on the RTV and very brave to put an RB in anything without rebuilding it first, but otherwise I thought it was good Dose, I'm not sure that having the pickup forward is a big issue; yes of course the oil could shift under brakes but the sump should never be empty enough for that to be a problem (unless you also have a higher volume oil pump, and that oil can't return from the head to the sump quickly enough)
×
×
  • Create New...