Jump to content
SAU Community

Rewiring AVCR. Engine bay help required.

Abo Bob

By Abo Bob,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Abo Bob Grand Master

Abo Bob

Posted
Posted

My AVCR solenoid is mounted behind the drivers side wheel arch and it's loud and annoying. Also I've been told that the length of hose running makes it slower to react.

Pic one is where it's mounted.

Pic two is the pair of tubes running all the way around the engine.

Pic three is I think the t-piece where the boost controller taps in, so to speak.

Can I safely cut the wires shown in pic one and run longer ones around the other side of the engine? What spec wire should I use if this is ok? (I always get confused at Jaycar, there is too much wire to choose from.)

Do people think this is worthwhile from a response perspective or am I only doing this to get the noise further away from me?

Abo Bob Grand Master

Abo Bob

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Got boost - Thanks, I should have been more specific. I know the fuel filter.

ronin - boost gauge sensor sounds right.

SKYL9 - I think it does but I didn't install it. I think I may fix it when someone tells me what's what from my first post.

Roy Grand Master

Roy

Posted
Posted

You can cut the solenoid wires and solder in a length of wire to suit. I did and its not a problem. As for the type of wire, i used 0.5mm unifilar wire.

And yes the little black fitting with wire and hoses is the MAP sensor for the AVC-R.

But the easiest fix is to get about 3mm thick rubber and mount the solenoid on that. Or even better is do what i did and make up a simple aluminium bracket that bolts off an existing hole and combined with the rubber you will never hear the solenoid.

As for the length of hose, there is some merit to that thinking. However if the thing is holding stabel boost and is repsonding well (not spiking) then the length of the hose is not really effecting anything.

More important is the diam of the hose.

My suggestion is, remove all the existing wiring, and make up a simple aluminium bracket that bolts to the back of one the power steering reservoirs. It will shorten the boost/vacuum lines significantly, as it will now sit 6-8 inches from the actuator. The std length of wire is fine if you run the wire thru the firewall with the ECU wiring.

...and dont forget the rubber mounts:)

Abo Bob Grand Master

Abo Bob

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks Roy.

It does spike and that's partially why I was interested to know if this could be the reason. Also it spiked on Sunday to 0.92 bar which resulted in a blown turbo.

It already has a rubber mount but I had exactly the same idea as you with a an alluminium bracket.

So I wont need more wire if I rewire through the passenger side of the car?

I might as well do all this while I'm replacing the turbo. I had hoped to have it out already but there is a bastard alan key bolt holding my dump pipe on to the turbo.

Roy Grand Master

Roy

Posted
Posted

Damn, shame about costing you a turbo:(

But in which case do the bracket behind the power steering reservoir. You will be able to get the lines nice and short. Also use the correct diam hose, if you use the larger 8mm hose then its harder for the solenoid to control the boost.

Depending where they run your wiring in the dash, it may take a bit of tweaking, but the std AVC-R definitely has enough length in its wiring to run next to the ECU harness thru passenger side sill.

I mounted the MAP sensor over near the brake booster, so once again the vacuum/boost line is short as possible, as if this line is overly wrong then in theory it could also dull the response of the controls/AVC-R. That was the wiring that i had to extend a few inches so as to allow me to keep the boost/vacuum hose short as possible off the inlet manifold:cheers:

Good luck with it

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      R33 Fuel Pump & Brakes after alarm swap

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Who did you have do the installation? I actually know someone who is VERY familiar with the AVS gear. The main point of contact though would be your installer.   Where are you based in NZ?
    • GTSBoy
      R33 Fuel Pump & Brakes after alarm swap

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Look, realistically, those are some fairly chunky connectors and wires so it is a reasonably fair bet that that loom was involved in the redirection of the fuel pump and/or ECU/ignition power for the immobiliser. It's also fair to be that the new immobiliser is essentially the same thing as the old one, and so it probably needs the same stuff done to make it do what it has to do. Given that you are talking about a car that no-one else here is familiar with (I mean your exact car) and an alarm that I've never heard of before and so probably not many others are familiar with, and that some wire monkey has been messing with it out of our sight, it seems reasonable that the wire monkey should be fixing this.
    • GTSBoy
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Jarsky
      R33 Fuel Pump & Brakes after alarm swap

      By Jarsky · Posted

      Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Duncan
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By Duncan · Posted

      Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
×
×
  • Create New...