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New R34 owner with problems already!

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ed Grand Master

ed

Posted
Posted
anymore? so you've had this problem as well?

That is correct.

Mine was coilpacks but those 3 light can mean anything.

Hence why I keep telling you to RUN THE DIAGNOSTIC TEST

Because that will tell you what the ECU sees as the problem. :idea:

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SS8_Gohan Grand Master

SS8_Gohan

Posted
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i tried the search function and the best explanation i found was troy's.

1. i didn't know how to 'short'... now i know you need a paperclip, but what 2 wires?

2. haven't found anything on how to read the flashes the troy was talking about

i'm sorry, but i'm a newb when it comes to this, so i wasn't sure what to do... and still not 100% but i guess i've got enough info to give it a try...

ed Grand Master

ed

Posted
Posted

ok, this is from memory.

Locate the diagnostic port.

It is below the steering column, on the drivers side.

It is a small panel you open and it will drop down with a grey plug.

Have a look at the back of the plug.

You will see 2 wires next to each other on their own.

That's the two wires you need to connect via the paper clip to get it working.

Turn the car to accessory mode.

Short the 2 wires on the diagnostic port.

You will see the lights on the dash flash (I think it's the check engine light)

long flash is the first number

short flash is the second number

example

21.

flaaaaaaaaaash

flasssssssssssh

flash

I think the end of codes code is 55.

This is ALL from memory, so I might be wrong on some parts.

Let us know how it goes.

SS8_Gohan Grand Master

SS8_Gohan

Posted
Posted

Ok. Got Temp rego, and got insurance with Shannons.

Took the car down to workshop on Sat morning... same thing, car heats up to normal operating temp, and starts running like shit, and the lights come on.

Was driving on "a" hwy, so i could open her up a bit, so just get driving it, doing laps of the hwy. Some times the power delivery got kinda jerky, like it would rev to 5K, then like drop back, then kick on again. But after some more driving, started to become smooth again. Turned car off/on, and the lights went off. So now i'm thinking, it just need a "real" drive, not something just around the block.

Bring car back into workshop, plug in scan tool. ECU has logged 'Code 21' - some sort of ignition problem. So it's most likely the coil packs? - Got the scan tool to clear the codes, and the car was fine. Even though it's running fine, should i still change the coil packs?

anyways, so yeah. Code 21, i'm guessing that's the same prob you've got there Ryan.

666DAN Grand Master

666DAN

Posted
Posted
Bring car back into workshop, plug in scan tool. ECU has logged 'Code 21' - some sort of ignition problem. So it's most likely the coil packs? - Got the scan tool to clear the codes, and the car was fine. Even though it's running fine, should i still change the coil packs?

anyways, so yeah. Code 21, i'm guessing that's the same prob you've got there Ryan.

Bingo Bango! Yes change the packs as they get worse, then die completely. Get splitfires!!!

666DAN Grand Master

666DAN

Posted
Posted
that's $650 bucks!!! is it bad for other parts of the car driving it with bodgy coil packs?

Yes cause it's running like shite, not only will you get the shits when it's gutless and running on 5 cylinders, you'll have a dead cylinders that are getting their lubrication removed by unburnt fuel.

They're are some packs on e-bay at the moment for $150...may be a cheaper temporary option?

RyanN Rising Star

RyanN

Posted
Posted

god damn it! Checked the vacume sensor and the hose had a crack in it again, i fixed it for good this time, a much better quality hose as the stock one was a shotty plastic piece of crap.

predator Grand Master

predator

Posted
Posted

I can't see how a 5 year old or so R34 has coilpack problems.. when my 15 year car doesn't have any sort of problem with its original coilpacks.

Doubt its coilpacks. Have you even reset the ECU to retune itself to australian fuel?

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