Jump to content
SAU Community

N1 pumps

Suspense

By Suspense,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Suspense Proficient

Suspense

Posted
Posted

Hey in the process of getting my RB25DET rebuild plans together, and was wondering what your thoughts on putting the N1 water and Oil pumps on?

IT will be a street car, rarely sit at countinious high rpm.

And i am lookin at getting 240-250rwkw out of it?

SO should i go for N1?

or is standard R33 gear up to the task?

Thanx

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/69069-n1-pumps/
Share on other sites
GTR32 Rising Star

GTR32

Posted
Posted
Hey in the process of getting my RB25DET rebuild plans together, and was wondering what your thoughts on putting the N1 water and Oil pumps on?

IT will be a street car, rarely sit at countinious high rpm.

And i am lookin at getting 240-250rwkw out of it?

SO should i go for N1?

or is standard R33 gear up to the task?

Thanx

Try doing a search on this, it was discussed recently. From memory the N1 oil pump was just a standard one with a high tension spring. The water pump was designed for sustained high rpm use and not suitable for street driving. I'm pretty sure it was Sydneykid who posted.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/69069-n1-pumps/#findComment-1279334
Share on other sites
  • 2 months later...
GeeTR Grand Master

GeeTR

Posted
Posted

Hey,

Any one with any more info on this?

I’m currently suffering the much seen "dropping oil pressure at idle, rectified by engine shut down and 3 min wait" This plus a audibly shagged oil pump, means I’m looking for a replacement.

UAS sell "N1 pumps" with visually different vanes " http://www.uniqueautos.com.au/pricelists/p...t_gtrengine.htm "

Worse case, the spring and vane are the only mods; what are peoples experiences, thoughts? do they overflow oil and just open the pressure spring more?

Much appreciated, and thoughts

- M

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/69069-n1-pumps/#findComment-1430887
Share on other sites
itbmils Proficient

itbmils

Posted
Posted

The N1 oil pump is VERY different to the std unit - I recall seeing a thread not so long ago that did a detailed comparison between the std pump and the N1 pump - and the N1 pump proved to be VERY different - not just the spring.

From memory – it not only flowed more – but was considerably stronger in construction too (thicker backing plate for example). I can't seem to find that thread now – may have been dreaming – or it ?could? have been on the SDU site instead

For what it's worth (if you have lemming tendencies) I have both N1 water and oil pumps on my street driven GTR - and I've never had a problem with either of them (you can't be too safe with the slippery black stuff I think)

HtH

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/69069-n1-pumps/#findComment-1431938
Share on other sites
JH32 Grand Master

JH32

Posted
Posted
From memory – it not only flowed more – but was considerably stronger in construction too (thicker backing plate for example). I can't seem to find that thread now – may have been dreaming – or it ?could? have been on the SDU site instead

I remember that post as well. I think it was from a guy that posts mainly on SDU but put the thread up here as well.

Was a good read .... I'll try and find it too

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/69069-n1-pumps/#findComment-1432045
Share on other sites
Sydneykid Grand Master

Sydneykid

Posted
Posted

I have had at least 5 genuine Nissan RB26DETT N1 oil pumps. There is NO DIFFERENCE to a standard R33GTR RB26DETT oil pump. However they are not the same as a standard RB25DET or RB20DET oil pump. The RB26DETT N1 oil pump has exactly the same oil flow rate as an R33GTR RB26DETT oil pump, the only difference is they have a stronger pressure relief spring.

They should not be confused with the aftermarket oil pumps from Jun, HKS, APexi etc. They are truly high flow as well as high pressure. This is confirmed by their cost which is 3 times what an N1 pump is sold for.

I have personally replaced 2 X N1 water pumps in RB26's that overheated in traffic. Put the standard RB26DETT water pump in and they have problems. The N1 pump is designed for zero cavitation at sustained high rpm, not low rpm in city traffic with the aircon on a 40 degree day.

The designation "N1" is for the Class of Production Car Racing, Nissan did not make these parts for a "better" road car. They are designed for circuit racing applications. It is that simple.

:D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/69069-n1-pumps/#findComment-1432397
Share on other sites
JH32 Grand Master

JH32

Posted
Posted
We don't use them:cheers:

Another question ...... :)

If you buy a standard 32GTR pump and replace the spring in it :

a. where do you buy the spring from?

b. what do you ask for when buying the spring?

c. how hard is it to change the spring?

Many thanks!! :(

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/69069-n1-pumps/#findComment-1433162
Share on other sites
lwells Grand Master

lwells

Posted
Posted
OK - so now I'm confused - this is the thread I was after. I did not search for N 'dash' 1 (N-1)

So - are they different or not ?

You'll notice that SK explicitly said the R33 GT-R oil pump, whereas the thread I linked was discussing the differences between the R32 GT-R and N1 pumps. Someone else will have to comment as to the difference between the R32 and R33 GT-R pumps.

LW.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/69069-n1-pumps/#findComment-1433395
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      R33 Fuel Pump & Brakes after alarm swap

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Look, realistically, those are some fairly chunky connectors and wires so it is a reasonably fair bet that that loom was involved in the redirection of the fuel pump and/or ECU/ignition power for the immobiliser. It's also fair to be that the new immobiliser is essentially the same thing as the old one, and so it probably needs the same stuff done to make it do what it has to do. Given that you are talking about a car that no-one else here is familiar with (I mean your exact car) and an alarm that I've never heard of before and so probably not many others are familiar with, and that some wire monkey has been messing with it out of our sight, it seems reasonable that the wire monkey should be fixing this.
    • GTSBoy
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Jarsky
      R33 Fuel Pump & Brakes after alarm swap

      By Jarsky · Posted

      Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Duncan
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By Duncan · Posted

      Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • V35Newbie
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By V35Newbie · Posted

      I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
×
×
  • Create New...