Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

lol.. your old clutch didn't look too healthy though cubes :D

there is some good info on stockists and part numbers and all the rest at www.xtremeclutch.com.au - it is the same clutch for R32 and r33 :D

I am not sure whether just to just get an exchange on the old one when i do the manual conv, or go for something else.. like the Excedy.. which i really liked on the old car.

  • Replies 66
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

The pressure plate is fine.

Grab a clutch plate, maybe even the 9puk ceramic and bolt it up. :D

Much cheaper than buying the whole lot. The pressure plate was driven fairly easy (no clutch drops) so its still in good nick. :D

With the 1tonne clutch I find I don't sit with my foot on the clutch.

I always throw it in neutral. Peak hour traffic makes your leg damn sore and begin to shake. :D

The 800kg clutch didn't hurt my leg in peak hour traffic.

For 230rwkw go for a 800kg pressure plate & a 9puk ceramic cushioned clutch plate.

I wouldn't use an organic full face clutch for 200rwkw+. Ride it a little in first and it will slip in second. :(

With the 1tonne clutch I find I don't sit with my foot on the clutch.

I always throw it in neutral. Peak hour traffic makes your leg damn sore and begin to shake. :D

 

The 800kg clutch didn't hurt my leg in peak hour traffic.

 

For 230rwkw go for a 800kg pressure plate & a 9puk ceramic cushioned clutch plate.

I wouldn't use an organic full face clutch for 200rwkw+. Ride it a little in first and it will slip in second. :(

Thanks - I will get that then.

Ceramic cushioned clutch plate...

That's this one right?

Dampened Centre, cushioned segment between lining, Multiple sintered button lining bonded to steel backing. Sintered lining offers greater torque capacity, much higher coefficient of friction and higher heat stability and dissipation.

Offers great driveability with the advantages of using a sintered lining, relatively smooth and positive engagement, suited for street and sprint use.

The same as the 2nd one on the list http://www.xtremeclutch.com.au/knowledge_ratings.htm - if that's the one you're recommending then I'll get that one.

Clutches have been confusing me for the last 2 weeks of been looking for one :D

Thanks again for your help.

Second on the list is the 1000kg. hence XHD and the one I have now that handles around 300rwkw.

The 800kg is the first one on the list, a little lighter on the foot but more than enough performance for 230rwkw.

DCBHD is the one I would look at if I was in your postion.

I have a 9 puck XHD on the way as well after the diaphram in my twin plate snapped in 2 and it was in need of new plates as well on opening it up. As it was only a TS2A (380hp rated) i dont think it would have been up for the caning it would get behind the rb25 anyway.

I'm currently driving around with my stock RB20 clutch in, so nice to drive after a 1000kg bitey unsprung super light clutch and flywheel combo.

So hopefully the new clutch is nice to drive. I'm a bit more confident after reading this thread.

i have the xtreme 9 puk version, its not THAT heavy and drives very nice (espec compared to the triple plate i had) however after doing a couple launches (gtr) it doesnt seem to fully grip as best as id like it to - as in it slips or cant take the load well.. The triple plate was amazing but undrivable as a daily

Second on the list is the 1000kg. hence XHD and the one I have now that handles around 300rwkw.

 

The 800kg is the first one on the list, a little lighter on the foot but more than enough performance for 230rwkw.

 

DCBHD is the one I would look at if I was in your postion.

Thanks Cubes, I'll get that one.

How many puk is this ? (what's a puk!?) :P It's 9 right? the number of contact area things?

Sorry for the questions but I've heard alot of terms and none of them really seem to 'match up'/be comparable.

me.. tuner? heh don't have one :P

I'll take your word for it. I'm basically looking for a clutch 3-4 steps up from a organic HD and 1-2 steps down from a brass button (ie can be hard to use but prefer it to be a little lighter and would prefer a bit of ride).

So - all is good, if it takes my power level that's what I'm mainly concerned with. I just hope it doesn't kill my gearbox + flywheel :)

Cheers for your help.

emailed horsepowerinabox, they offer that clutch Cubes has pictured for $750 delivered.  

"Xtreme DCB unit in Xtra Heavy duty 50% over OEM"

Pretty sure the one for $550 offers 100% over OEM.

Got quoted from them for $625 delivered for KNI24003DCBXHD.

This is the 1 tonne clutch kit (extra hd)..

As Cubes suggested I'm trying to get a quote for the KNI24003DCBHD which is the HD not XHD (the 800kg one) which, is cheaper.

Anyone with a skyline please don't use these part numbers as they are for a SR20DET!

I'm wondering why the quote you got is more than $100 more? Surely the SR and RB clutch kits can't be that different?

  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I got back to Japan in January and was keen to get back on track as quickly as possible. Europe is god-awful for track accessibility (by comparison), so I picked up a first-gen GT86 in December just to have something I could jump into right away. The Skyline came over in a container this time and landed in early January. It was a bit battered after Europe, though—I refused to do anything beyond essential upkeep while it was over there. The clutch master cylinder gave out, and so did the power steering. I didn’t even bother changing the oil; it was the same stuff that went in just before I left Japan the first time. Naughty. Power steering parts would’ve cost double with shipping and taxes, so knowing I’d be heading back to Japan, I just postponed it and powered through the arm workout. It took a solid three months to get the car back on the road. Registration was a nightmare this time around. There were a bunch of BS fees to navigate, and sourcing parts was a headache. I needed stock seats for shaken, mistakenly blew 34k JPY on some ENR34 seats—which, of course, didn’t fit—then ended up having the car’s technical sheet amended to register it as a two-seater with the Brides. Then there’s the GT86. Amazing car. Does everything I want it to do. Parts are cheap, easy to find, and I don’t care what anyone says—it’s super rewarding to drive. I’ve done a few basic mods: diff ratio, coilovers, discs, pads, seat, etc. It already had a new exhaust manifold and the 180kph limiter removed, so I assume it’s running some kind of map. I’ve just been thrashing it at the track non-stop—mostly Fuji Speedway now, since I need something with higher speed after all that autobahn time. The wheels on the R34 always pissed me off—too big, and it was a nightmare getting tires to fit properly under the arches. So I threw in the towel and bought something that fits better. Looks way cleaner too (at least to me)—less hotboy, less attention-seeking. Still an R34, though. Now for future plans. There are a few things still outstanding with the car. First up, the rear subframe needs an overhaul—that’s priority one. Next, I need to figure out an engine rebuild plan. No timeline yet, but I want to keep it economical—not cutting corners, just not throwing tens of thousands at a mechanic I can barely communicate with. And finally, paint. Plus a bit of tidying up here and there.  
    • Nope, needed to clearance under the bar a little with a heat gun, a 1/2" extension as the "clearancer", and big hammer, I was aware of this from the onset, they fit a 2.0 with this intake no problems, but, the 2.5 is around 15mm taller than a 2.0, so "clearancing" was required  It "just" touched when test fitting, now, I have about 10mm of clearance  You cannot see where it was done, and so far, there's no contact when giving it the beans Happy days
    • It's been a while since I've updated this thread. The last year (and some) has been very hectic. In the second-half of 2024 I took the R34 on a trip through Germany, Italy, France and Switzerland - it was f*cking great. I got a little annoyed with the attention the car was getting around Europe and really didn't drive it that much. I could barely work on the car since I was living in an inner-city apartment (with underground parking). During the trip, the car lost power steering in France - split hose - and I ended up driving around 4,000kms with no power steering.  There were a few Nurburgring trips here and there, but in total the R34 amassed just shy of 7,000kms on European roads. Long story short, I broke up with the reason I was transferred to Europe for and requested to be moved back to Japan. The E90, loved it. It was a sunk cost of around EUR 10,000 and I sold it to a friend for EUR 1,500 just to get rid of it quickly. Trust me, moving countries f*cking sucks and I could not be bothered to be as methodical as I was the first time around.
    • I assume clearances were all a-okay?
    • Shock tower brace is in +5Kw....LOL  
×
×
  • Create New...