Jump to content
SAU Community

Fs: Attessa Controllers $350

Duncan

By Duncan,
in Group Buys

 Share

Recommended Posts

Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted

We are able to get hold of locally made Attessa controllers which work with R32, 33 and 34 GTRs and GTS4s.

These controllers allow you to choose from 10 settings from 100% rear drive to max available front torque.

$350, +$50 installation if you want us to do it for you...it is very simple though, 5 joins.

The kit uses the standard FM radio controls on the dash on the R32, or a switch on all other cars. An LED displays which setting you are at 1-10.

Pics will be posted in the next few days, as they are made to order you will need about 1 week's lead time.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/69301-fs-attessa-controllers-350/
Share on other sites
  • Replies 317
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Posted Images

Guest two.06l

Guest two.06l

Posted
Posted
We are able to get hold of locally made Atessa controllers which work with R32, 33 and 34 GTRs and GTS4s.

These controllers allow you to choose from 10 settings from 100% rear drive to max available front torque.

$350, +$50 installation if you want us to do it for you...it is very simple though, 5 joins.

The kit uses the standard FM radio controls on the dash on the R32, or a switch on all other cars.  An LED displays which setting you are at 1-10.

Pics will be posted in the next few days, as they are made to order you will need about 1 week's lead time.

sounds good Dunks,put us down for 1 unit

Yorik Community Regular

Yorik

Posted
Posted

Damn it, just bought an M's ETS last week... Still interested to see some pics and info on this thing...

Does it wokr by constantly applying drive, or does it modify the amount of drive given by ATTESSA like the AutoSpeed example? Does it interface to the Front Torque guage too??

Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Hi all, pms all replied to, and a couple have been sold and we are making them up.

re Pics, I am still sourcing them, but there is really nothing to see....little black box with the brains, and LED and a switch to adjust up and down. Box lives in the console next the the g sensors, LED on the dash where the driver can see it and switch wherever suits :rofl:

re operation....basically this works along the lines of the Autospeed one, it intercepts and modifies the output of the g sensors to get the required front torque.

Simple, which is why we can get them at a good price :D

CONRAD Community Regular

CONRAD

Posted
Posted

Hi Duncan,

In regards to the standard radio operating the unit.. is that the toggle switches on the left of the drivers gauge consol as opposed to the centre consol (32)? My car came with an aftermarket stereo so not sure if the stanndard radio was mounted in the centre consol and like some modern cars there was also control switches nearer the driver. Cheers

gtrken Grand Master

gtrken

Posted
Posted

Oooh oooh , Duncan.

Put me down for one as my GTR will hopefully be here in about a month.

For those who haven't driven with a torque split controller in the wet, they are brilliant. Had a HKS one in my Targa GTR and it makes a big difference to the balance and control on unknown wet, slippery. scary roads...

I believe you can't get the HKS ones for R32's anymore but that is no excuse to raise the price :D

Cheers

Ken

yaf28f Rising Star

yaf28f

Posted
Posted

Sorry, is this TSC excatly the same as the one by 'R32 combat' in WWW.GTR.CO.UK?

If so, I'm interested, but would like to at least see a picture of the gadget first.

Yorik Community Regular

Yorik

Posted
Posted
For those who haven't driven with a torque split controller in the wet, they are brilliant. Had a HKS one in my Targa GTR and it makes a big difference to the balance and control on unknown wet, slippery. scary roads...

Hi Ken, Correct me if I am wrong, but the HKS ETC units gave constant drive, like you dial in 35, they give 35 constantly, these units modify the way in which ATTESSA control is delivered, like the ones shown in AutoSpeed. This will give you no drive when you don't need it, but a different drive to the stock ATTESSA controller when it is needed dependant on the level selected by the driver..

I just recently purchased a Second hand M's ETS for $375, which I think works in the same manner as the HKS ETC units.. The HKS ETC is no longer available, the only ETC available anywhere seems to be the GRID units.

Sorry to hijack thread, just thought it would be good for people to repsond and to clear up any confusion.

Once again, Damn! This is about a week too late.. Otherwise I would probably get one of these, I am considering making my own one form the Autospeed articel anyway..

Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Hi Duncan,

In regards to the standard radio operating the unit.. is that the toggle switches on the left of the drivers gauge consol as opposed to the centre consol (32)? My car came with an aftermarket stereo so not sure if the stanndard radio was mounted in the centre consol and like some modern cars there was also control switches nearer the driver. Cheers

Hey Conrad, yes that's the radio controls I mean, the one on the dash not on the head unit. But don't worry too much about that, we can provide a seperate switch if you need, its just not as much of a stealth install then :D

yaf28f, it may well be similar, I don't know anything about the GTROC units. These were designed and are being built by a supplier in Sydney.

Yeah Yorik, that's right, the HKS units can provide a constant torque split, this does not. It basically increases the sensitivity of the sensor depending on the setting you choose, the effect is _more_ fwd when you need it.

And it is very effective....we generally run it on setting 3-4 on a dry track and 6-7 on a wet track, it provides plenty of FWD when you need it :P

pms sent to other purchasers

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • ToothDR32
      $5 Clock upgrade for R32 GTR

      By ToothDR32 · Posted

      Hello, sorry for being late to join the discussion, but my clock just died on me.   Ive tried to look at Michaels digital clock repair.docx and it doesnt work maybe the file has expired.   Please let me know if you can re upload it or take some youtube videos to show us how to get the clock installed? thanks
    • MissMintyR33
      R33 persistent issues. P/steering and lag/misfire

      By MissMintyR33 · Posted

      I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • jtha7
      Strange issue RB25DET wont start

      By jtha7 · Posted

      Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • jtha7
      Strange issue RB25DET wont start

      By jtha7 · Posted

      Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • GTSBoy
      Freddy Plenum vs Genuine options RB25

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
×
×
  • Create New...