Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

We are able to get hold of locally made Attessa controllers which work with R32, 33 and 34 GTRs and GTS4s.

These controllers allow you to choose from 10 settings from 100% rear drive to max available front torque.

$350, +$50 installation if you want us to do it for you...it is very simple though, 5 joins.

The kit uses the standard FM radio controls on the dash on the R32, or a switch on all other cars. An LED displays which setting you are at 1-10.

Pics will be posted in the next few days, as they are made to order you will need about 1 week's lead time.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/69301-fs-attessa-controllers-350/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 317
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Guest two.06l
We are able to get hold of locally made Atessa controllers which work with R32, 33 and 34 GTRs and GTS4s.

These controllers allow you to choose from 10 settings from 100% rear drive to max available front torque.

$350, +$50 installation if you want us to do it for you...it is very simple though, 5 joins.

The kit uses the standard FM radio controls on the dash on the R32, or a switch on all other cars.  An LED displays which setting you are at 1-10.

Pics will be posted in the next few days, as they are made to order you will need about 1 week's lead time.

sounds good Dunks,put us down for 1 unit

Damn it, just bought an M's ETS last week... Still interested to see some pics and info on this thing...

Does it wokr by constantly applying drive, or does it modify the amount of drive given by ATTESSA like the AutoSpeed example? Does it interface to the Front Torque guage too??

Hi all, pms all replied to, and a couple have been sold and we are making them up.

re Pics, I am still sourcing them, but there is really nothing to see....little black box with the brains, and LED and a switch to adjust up and down. Box lives in the console next the the g sensors, LED on the dash where the driver can see it and switch wherever suits :rofl:

re operation....basically this works along the lines of the Autospeed one, it intercepts and modifies the output of the g sensors to get the required front torque.

Simple, which is why we can get them at a good price :D

Hi Duncan,

In regards to the standard radio operating the unit.. is that the toggle switches on the left of the drivers gauge consol as opposed to the centre consol (32)? My car came with an aftermarket stereo so not sure if the stanndard radio was mounted in the centre consol and like some modern cars there was also control switches nearer the driver. Cheers

Oooh oooh , Duncan.

Put me down for one as my GTR will hopefully be here in about a month.

For those who haven't driven with a torque split controller in the wet, they are brilliant. Had a HKS one in my Targa GTR and it makes a big difference to the balance and control on unknown wet, slippery. scary roads...

I believe you can't get the HKS ones for R32's anymore but that is no excuse to raise the price :D

Cheers

Ken

Sorry, is this TSC excatly the same as the one by 'R32 combat' in WWW.GTR.CO.UK?

If so, I'm interested, but would like to at least see a picture of the gadget first.

For those who haven't driven with a torque split controller in the wet, they are brilliant. Had a HKS one in my Targa GTR and it makes a big difference to the balance and control on unknown wet, slippery. scary roads...

Hi Ken, Correct me if I am wrong, but the HKS ETC units gave constant drive, like you dial in 35, they give 35 constantly, these units modify the way in which ATTESSA control is delivered, like the ones shown in AutoSpeed. This will give you no drive when you don't need it, but a different drive to the stock ATTESSA controller when it is needed dependant on the level selected by the driver..

I just recently purchased a Second hand M's ETS for $375, which I think works in the same manner as the HKS ETC units.. The HKS ETC is no longer available, the only ETC available anywhere seems to be the GRID units.

Sorry to hijack thread, just thought it would be good for people to repsond and to clear up any confusion.

Once again, Damn! This is about a week too late.. Otherwise I would probably get one of these, I am considering making my own one form the Autospeed articel anyway..

Hi Duncan,

In regards to the standard radio operating the unit.. is that the toggle switches on the left of the drivers gauge consol as opposed to the centre consol (32)? My car came with an aftermarket stereo so not sure if the stanndard radio was mounted in the centre consol and like some modern cars there was also control switches nearer the driver. Cheers

Hey Conrad, yes that's the radio controls I mean, the one on the dash not on the head unit. But don't worry too much about that, we can provide a seperate switch if you need, its just not as much of a stealth install then :D

yaf28f, it may well be similar, I don't know anything about the GTROC units. These were designed and are being built by a supplier in Sydney.

Yeah Yorik, that's right, the HKS units can provide a constant torque split, this does not. It basically increases the sensitivity of the sensor depending on the setting you choose, the effect is _more_ fwd when you need it.

And it is very effective....we generally run it on setting 3-4 on a dry track and 6-7 on a wet track, it provides plenty of FWD when you need it :P

pms sent to other purchasers

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I have done a lot of research before posting here and on gtruk forum. couldn't find anything. I have my gauges all part except the needle itself. the needle has a extremely small hole in the center, but the shaft going to the needle is extremely small and appears to have nothing to index it either. doesn't seem strong enough to simple pry or pull without damaging something. Already tried the old spoon trick on a extra triple meter I have from a gtt, but no luck. the center cap comes off easily but the hole in the meter face plate aren't big enough to get over the needle itself. figured this would be my best place to find someone who might have actually removed theirs. wonder if there is some type of small pin press tool to push the pin in while pulling the needle base off.
    • Ok...its taking me long enough to finally do this.  Feck financial security...heart disease will get me soon enough anyway So welcome to the garage..."Clem" Belsil80 has been running a 370Z in Super TT series. So after entering with him in last years Winton 300 i figured I  need my own car. Seems SAU Vic race cars need to be yellow....{tick} Reckon with enough motor i will be able to make up for the lack of talent and stay ahead of the 370Z... but the LS powered S13 and E36s are a ways up the road Aim is to have a car that doesnt stop or turn but has a bit of shed built motor with jam...maybe some cream  First step is getting this ex drift car log booked I am keeping faithful silver car. As the road-club car gets upgrades the race car wil get the sloppy seconds
    • Assuming that they will come off without damage at all.... i would have thought just pull straight up off the spindle with a something or other than can reach underneath. Have you searched for youtube vids of people doing similar on R34s or any other Nissan from the same vintage? They should be the same technique, in all likelihhood.
    • Keeping in mind that sandblasting is really aggressive on softer metals like cast alloy, and you can do damage that you might regret. For trash wheels, not a problem. For wheels with value/scarcity issues, etc.... perhaps a less aggressive media is a better choice?
    • Don't get all high and mighty. Experienced spanner wielders know exactly what effort is required to release an Oof.
×
×
  • Create New...