Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I disagree totally. Do you think JUN havent thought of this already? old Mr tanaka didn't get to where he is now by being secretive and paranoid... obviously when you sell a product, the R&D that has gone into it is now out in the public domain, and is free to be copied... Lots of other people have these plenums too, and even if some chinese guy does copy it, he doesnt know what the engineer was thinking when he designed it, so the copied product will never, ever be as good as the original.

It reminds me of Mario when he first started out 4-5 years ago with GTR700 - he wouldnt show photos of the fancy cooling system that everyone now knows about. it still doesnt mean that people know how it works, or how to do the mod properly.

just my 2c..

Cheers,

Matt

The reason is if i show you whats inside and someone copies it it would be worth a lot less than i paid for it.Also if JUN has done all the testing would it be fair for some chinese guy to copy it?

I would think that's not really the "spirit" of the forum. I'm sure anyone that want's to make money from copying the design would not rely on low res photos from this forum and would just buy one from Japan.

Along your line of reasoning, I paid a lot more a couple of years ago for my '93 GTR than people paid up until recently for 15 yo imports. I also paid a lot more for my genuine HKS terb manifolds than people pay for local or Chinese copies. But that's my choice.

Out of interest, I'm also using a single throttle conversion myself and am happy for anyone to look at the details of the plates and the custom throttle body. A hotly debated topic but personally I think it's an advantage for a high revving, standard 2.6L with high lift cams. I would imagine a single throttle body also helps with a map sensor type ECU setup. But again, my choice.

The reason is if i show you whats inside and someone copies it it would be worth a lot less than i paid for it.

I don't think that's really true. even if it was, you didn't buy it for an investment. it's only worth to you is in the performance gain it can give you and this 'value/worth' won't be diminished at all by someone else seeing it (even if they did copy it). ie. you didn't buy it for it's $ value. you could argue that your performance advantage over someone else could be reduced if they saw it, but that's not true as it's not a one-off that only you know how to make, anyone can buy one.

anyway, it's up to you whether or not you want to show people. it certainly looks good from the outside. enjoy.

Thanks guys.

as for R31Nismoid what is it that you want?

I'll give a complete list of mods and at least 4 dyno sheets with all runs over 290AWKW.

Also GAV what sort of mods have you done on your car. and did you notice an improvement with the new plenum down low or was it all up top.

Cheers.

i'm not sure on an exact price as we are always getting multiple things done at a time.

As for a better price give CRD a call.

one little bad thing is that they take about 3 months to get once they are ordered, as they only make them once the money is in.

power we have no real idea as no one with a set up like ours has done it before.

I'll post up a dyno sheet with the new figures once its all installed.

Thanks guys.

as for R31Nismoid what is it that you want?

I'll give a complete list of mods and at least 4 dyno sheets with all runs over 290AWKW.

Also GAV what sort of mods have you done on your car. and did you notice an improvement with the new plenum down low or was it all up top.

Cheers.

All up top - but the engine was/is set up for high revs anyway (high lift cams, extensive porting, big low mounts).

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I do believe from context he is talking about a S0/S1 R33 RB25 with associated ECU and Wiring for that, and a manual gearbox into a R34 N/A Auto. I don't have the knowledge of all the pinouts and such but my gut feeling from doing my own conversion is to use as much of the R33 stuff that you can. The "car" wiring is quite seperate from the "Engine" wiring when all things are considered. The only things to truly consider 99% of the time is the cluster, reverse lights and potentially disabling the 'not in P/N' immobilizer circuit.
    • A realistic expectattion of how long it has to last also comes down to.... when do you think you will be banned from registering and driving old petrol powered shitters? It's 27 years since that thing was built. It probably rusted out 15 years ago. It was probably repaired and looked OK for another 10. If you do a similarish bodge job now, or perhaps slightly better with some actual rust conversion and glassing, then.... get another 10-15 years out of it, after which you'll only be permitted by the CCP to drive electric cars manufactured in their Shenzen zone anyway. 
    • Let me assume that the concern over a manual ECU is that the NeoDET that you have was an auto and has an auto ECU. That ECU will not be a problem, but you WILL have to Nistune it. And you would have to Nistune it even if you had a manual ECU, because the turbo ECUs will shit the bed if they do not have all the things that they were told they have to have, to be happy. The big one being the TCS CU, which you won't have in your car. Anyway, with an auto ECU (which I have running my originally auto NeoDET in an R32) Nistune allows you to put in a Stagea image which doesn't panic about the absent TCS, and allows you to override a whle bunch of other annoyances that would otherwise see the check engine light on 100% of the time. Also, you can't wind up the power very far on the stock NeoDET ECUs without Nistune, because the boost sensor gets in the way. Nistune allows you to push that problem much further up the dial. Do you even have the boost sensor with the engine? Without it, you are SOL and will need an aftermarket ECU (or to find a sensor somewhere, god knows where). I can't tell you what the wiring loom differences are in a 34. But what Duncan said above needs to be considered. When you say "loom", does that include the transmission loom? Because you will need to swap out the auto tranny loom for the equivalent manual loom, and get rid of the neutral/park start interlock (basically hot wire it).
    • I have had the r3c in for years now, maybe close to 7 years and it has never missed a beat, anyone can drive it. Super easy to drive around town, the hotter it gets does get a little hard but it holds the power easy as 
    • Shit thing to find eh? I guess the big issue is that whatever "fix" you do now, it might slow the rust down but won't fix it. I just wanted to add that in no way is fixing sheet metal in 3 dimensions the place to start with welding....that is a pro only job because its too hard to work out where things should be, let alone doing a clean enough job that it can look OK and still be strong too.  I needed to get a new rear quarter panel on the GTR and it took a pro weeks to get the old one off cleanly, new one on in the right place and looking somewhat like it should have with most of the previous connecting panels in place. Gluing a couple of bits of metal together with a welder in the garage is doable, but that is totally different to doing panel  replacement
×
×
  • Create New...