Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

what do you mean by load? a turbo should generate boost if it has enough exhaust gases passing through the turbine. If you rev the shit out of it while its sitting then boost should be made. A mates WRX makes enough boost while sitting (only average revving) to make quite a loud BOV sound.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/69341-no-boost/#findComment-1283562
Share on other sites

yep spooling/boosting. i tried to bypass the stock boost controller (maybe with autos the ecu opens the wastegate right up) with a turbosmart T-controller but with no luck. I installed it correctly(i think) but i wouldn't make any boost over 1 or 2 psi. When installing a manual boost controller what needs to be modified from the r34 stock hoses? apparently the stock setup has a tube coming from the vacume and the intake, shouldn't it just be vacume?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/69341-no-boost/#findComment-1283749
Share on other sites

It is impossible for the ECU to open the wastegate before the Actuator allows it, so there is no way for this to happen. You need to get your turbine wheel spinning fast enough for the compressor to creat positive manifold pressure. If you build your revs up to about 3000rpm then kick it, the turbine will already be spinning and you will create 'some' boost.. You essentially need to get the turbine spinning with some hot loaded exhaust gases.. I too cna create enough boost to get the BOV's to make some noise, but this is dependant on too many other factors to comment on..

I suggest that you do some research into the operation of Turbochargers before expecting anything out of them. A very very good book for this is Maximum Boost by Corky Bell, has enough of the basics so that the beginners can learn and enough of the good stuff so that the more seasoned of us can gain knowledge and fill in the gaps. If you don't want to buy it, download it...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/69341-no-boost/#findComment-1283984
Share on other sites

yeah i would like to know alot more about turbo setups but im a bit of cheap skate so i'll need to find some "free" online info. Another problem i came across was when i removed the Turbosmart manual boost controller and connected the stock soilinoid back up; the stock boost goes up just below the halfway mark (on the factory boost gauge), now only does half that. How the hell did i lose half of my precious boost?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/69341-no-boost/#findComment-1285052
Share on other sites

yeah i think when ur free reving u wont get full boost...the only way to get full boost is under load as someone else has stated, or so i understand.

as for the missing boost...did you plug the solenoid back in? if you didnt ur car would only be runnin 5psi which is half of half..LOL. double check the pipework again.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/69341-no-boost/#findComment-1285289
Share on other sites

Free reving will give you boost, but this depends on:

Turbo size & the engines compression ratio.

If you have a huge turbo say GT3040 it won't make anyboost at all while free reving, only when under full load.

But if you have a stock turbo with lower compression its not going to make as much boost when free reving, otherwise stock compression you can get the turbo to spool a fair bit when free reving the engine.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/69341-no-boost/#findComment-1285371
Share on other sites

I have sr20 with small trust turbo and it doesn't make any pressure on the boost gauge free revving.

If I had a BOV however it would be enough to vent it if the spring wasn't tight.

I don't know what causes this but you don't want boost when free-revving or you'd kill your engine :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/69341-no-boost/#findComment-1285433
Share on other sites

My stock RB20 will go from ~20psi vacuum to 0psi in neutral so there IS a difference being made, but as mentioned there's not enough exhaust gases (to drive the turbine) being generated when free revving to produce "boost", they aren't directly related to RPM but load.

Try www.howstuffworks.com for basic turbo info. and to gain an understanding of basics physics (relationships between power, energy, etc.) .

Edit: For comparison a Supercharger WILL make boost when free revving, because it's hooked up to the crank and therefore affected by engine revs, it is consuming engine power (typically 10-20kw) to produce that pressure. But it WONT raise the pressure with load, which is why Turbo's are typically more efficient, giving you more power when you need it (when under greater load). HSW has plenty of info. on them too.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/69341-no-boost/#findComment-1285707
Share on other sites

My biggest problem at the moment is to get my stock boost back, would the ecu need a reset after connecting the stock soilinoid back up?

If a BOV can go off when revving in idle then has to be positive pressure, therefore some was made. On that subject, has anyone here installed a Mach 1 GFB BOV on an R34? whats up with the stock "mitsubishi" plumback.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/69341-no-boost/#findComment-1287425
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • HUMVEE are fine in big open areas, but they are problematic on the street and tight areas As for reliability, some of the  US Army guys I have chatted with have said that when they were working they were fine, but, the do spend alot of time in workshops for multiple reasons, admittedly, they did get a hard time by the boys and girls who drove them I would definitely put them in the "buyer beware" category  They do look tough as nails though 
    • Just don't use ChatGPT or any other artificial stupidity for the equivalent of googling. Their demonstrated inability to discriminate reality from hallucination should be enough to make them totally untrusted. LLMs don't know anything and cannot think to even the smallest extent. They are just predictors of the next word, and that should never be confused with capability.
    • I think, given the usage model described in the OP, I'd never ever experience the wonders of the 400kW upgrade. What I really need is boost from 2000rpm and probably no more than 260-270rwkW. But I suspect that the highflow is not actually the turbo for that purpose, so I may in fact need to get a G25 or 30 or something right sized and very spooly. We shall see after it is tuned. I've had to back the boost and boost ramp off to stop the thing from pinging since the highflow went on, so I've been almost living the NA life for 9 months now! Injectors are recently in hand. AFM is in hand. Dyno is fixed. Just need to clear a queue of f**king Supras out of the way (and probably fit my new gearbox). So....some time this year? Lol.
    • For what I gather is a Sunday/summer car....braided is fine. You're not going to be left without a vehicle and you have plenty of time for inspection/maintenance. Oof. I wouldn't use them that way. They can probably handle the temperature** but the internal corrugations means that their flow characteristics are a bit shit. Lots of extra friction and pressure loss. Makes them flow like the next pipe size down. ** They are stainless, and the stainless can usually be at least something like 304L, which is pretty good at higher temperatures (unlike 316L, which I would use for a wrt/corrosive environment, but not a particularly hot environment). But the welding needs to be top notch. And even then, because you usually need at least one cone-seat end on them (because you can twist the hose and do up both ends at the same time unless one of them is a union) they can be prone to coming loose with heat cycles.
    • I don't have the OEM oil feed lines though and the turbo-wraparound line is torn, only has water. My plan is to get replacements for these and just connect a braided line to there. And make sure it's leak free. Hoses like these are also sometimes used to connect external wastegates, so for an EGR I think you're good using them.
×
×
  • Create New...