Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Gday all,

A real quickie here, just wondering if anyone knows what power an RB20DET, pref out of an R32 GTST, makes at the wheels - when she's completely STOCK STANDARD...

I've just the below mods done to my baby and she now puts out a tidy 166.3 rwkw running 1.0 bar boost. :(

Apexi power FC

Greddy Profec B elec boost cont.

3" turbo back exhaust (catco hi-flo cat & dump pipe, X-force cannon muffler)

600x300x76 FMIC with full custom plumbing

HKS pod filter in FL guard - best cold air intake i've ever seen!

Sard adj fuel pressure regulator

Walbro 550hp 250 lph in-tank fuel pump

stock injectors - about 80% duty cycle i think...

Unfortunatley I didn't get the chance to dyno it beforehand so i'm interested to find out what the power difference is. I'm guestimating they make around 100 - 110 rwkw but if anyone's actually dynoed a stocker, i'd love to here what they really make!

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/69509-atw-power-for-a-stock-rb20det/
Share on other sites

Why such low power figures?

Is your car 1989, or does it have a series 1 rb20 in it??

Those mods should see atleast 180rwkw, if not more...

Stock standard ive seen one dyno at 104rwkw to help you out!

Yeah the bloke at Unique Auto Sports says those mods should see 170 - 180 rwkw, but then he said that i am only running 14psi plus its a stock turbo...hmmm. I've got to back and see him for a few tuning tweaks and i need to double check the injectors so i'll see if there's any difference then...

104rwkw - cheers!

Ye... you could run 1 bar (0.7psi more) but wud of thought u wud of got more.

Maybe u have a series 1 turbo, these are a fair bit weaker and have different inlet manifolds too!

No stress... bigger turbo time :( Esp with those supportin mods!

Ye... you could run 1 bar (0.7psi more) but wud of thought u wud of got more.

Maybe u have a series 1 turbo, these are a fair bit weaker and have different inlet manifolds too!

No stress... bigger turbo time :( Esp with those supportin mods!

Why would you have thought he would make more power?

As for different manifolds and differences in turbos, Series I and Seies II R32s :confused:

From what i would have gathered, 166rwkws is on the money:)

Meant engines dude! Not the actual car... lol

From what ive seen those mods WITHOUT a power FC can make up to 250rwhp... hes got that ontop..

Im yet to see a std turbo R32 GTST make 250rwhp, big thing with the Pfc is that the power curve/tractability of the engine should be improved...the turbo can only flow what it can flow, but the Pfc can help improve mixtures and response.

Another thing, i dont know how true this is as its just an observation, but the R32 ECUs appear to be far more flexible then the later R33s which insist on doing silly things with fuelling and ignition when you wind up the boost with a few breathing mods.

The R32 on the other hand does a pretty good job of adjusting to the new airflow requirements of the engine....

lol...That said, does the car drive any different with the tuned PFC now:)

Bigger turbo time = nothing makes me more moist!!!! :aroused:

in time an HKS GT RS will grace my exhaust manifold...

mines a 1992 build so its definitely a series 2 engine & turbo...very odd that the power figures are less than what others are gettin with similar / less mods

also i am running quite wide rear wheels & tyres - 9" wheels, 255 tyres - would that affect dyno figures?

Ye... you could run 1 bar (0.7psi more) but wud of thought u wud of got more.

Maybe u have a series 1 turbo, these are a fair bit weaker and have different inlet manifolds too!

No stress... bigger turbo time :P Esp with those supportin mods!

I had mine when it was bog stock standard on 2 different dyno dynamic dyno's.

D&T Performance - 113rwkw (hot day 98RON BP Ultimate)

RPM Performance - 115rwkw (cool day, 95RON BP Premium)

Check out some of the dyno run scans on the D&T Performance website.

It gives you an idea how the stocker rb compares to the ls1's, 200sx's etc.

I later had mine on the RPM Performance dyno, ran 1bar with a FMIC, 3" Turbo back exhaust, a little bit of extra ignition timing and fuel leaned out slightly via fuel reg modification. It made 164rwkw.

Why such low power figures?

Is your car 1989, or does it have a series 1 rb20 in it??

Those mods should see atleast 180rwkw, if not more...

Stock standard ive seen one dyno at 104rwkw to help you out!

A turbo can only flow so much air before it begins dropping efficiency.

This is why RB20 turbo's tend to drop boost UNLESS you run a good ebc that can vary the duty cycle at higher rpm. (AVCR or Blitz SBC-ID)

With 1bar holding to the redline it should be up around 170rwkw, and maaaybe 175rwkw if its a cool day. It all depends on the tune, how rich it is running and how agressive the tune is (ignition timing)

this is strange my car with front mount. 12PSI and zaust has 141 KW at the wheels. i am sure u should get more then 166KW. maybe something worng with his dyno. The Power FC should atleast give u 20 - 30 KW on its own

i just wish ppl would stop comparing their dyno results to someone who has dyno'd their car on a different dyno in a different state. workshops can make a dyno read as high or low as they want it to. run it down the strip, at least that gives you a better indication of how quick your car is imo.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • What an awesome idea to fit the facelift Lamborghini Diablo headlights. They are a perfect fit!
    • An update regarding the registration with the DVLA I sent off the paperwork the day after I collected the car from the port, two weeks later it was all returned with a letter explaining they have rejected the application. This was because the cheque was £20 short for the road tax (I used a price list I found online). Nevermind it is what it is, it was sent back to them the following day with a new cheque. Fast forward another 2 weeks or so, I called them for an update to be told it had been rejected. Yesterday (16th September) I received the documents back along with another letter, this time it was because I didn't put an X in one box on the V750 (personalised number plate certificate), which declared that I had the rights to the personalised number plate. Why this wasn't mentioned in the first rejection letter, I don't know, but it could have saved this headache. The documents were sent back today, so fingers crossed third times a charm and it'll FINALLY be registered on the road just in time for the bad weather (woohoo!) To cheer myself up I lowered the front 25mm, was sick of seeing it sit like a monster truck. No idea how much clearance I'll have getting on and off the driveway, I'll worry about that when I can actually drive it
    • You're going to miss not worrying about rust in the strut towers like the Skyline shitboxes out there
    • A few little updates that weren't filmed due to not taking long to do or not interesting enough for their own video. My new K&N Air Filter arrived, I went with an RU-4180 which matched the dimensions of the universal cone filter the car originally had.  The battery had gone flat, while that was charging I tidied up the spaghetti wiring at the bulk head and down the sides of the engine Next job was to swap the stereo The Kenwood harness had the female ISO plugs cut off and the male ISO plugs cut off the adaptor loom and joined with bullet connectors. I ordered in a repair loom through work and re-did it all. New Kenwood unit installed (Android Auto, DAB, Bluetooth, Reverse Camera) The bonnet/hood gas struts have been poor since collecting the car. I couldn't find any suitable replacements locally so took a chance on a pair from AliExpress.  The originals don't use a retaining clip to secure the cup onto the ball fixture, would explain why I struggled for 10-15mins trying to pry off the cups. The ball fixtures unscrew using a 12mm spanner, new ones are the same size. Sadly no photo of them fitted, you're not missing much lol The dished Momo steering wheel got replaced with my Momo Tuner, turns out I ordered counter sunk bolts for the horn trim ring (like they normally are for the steering wheel) instead of allen cap (flat seat)  A terrible photo of a Quaife style gear shift knob I've had stashed in my tool box for many years after purchasing the incorrect thread size (I can see a pattern emerging with ordering incorrect parts...) Also threw in a cup holder and a (empty) Boss Coffee can, because why not  
    • GT-R clearly the better choice! The 300 is certainly not insaly fast but has a decent amount of poke. Does a nice little drift around the corners with a decent amount of throttle. It's VERY predictable in a slide too.  Feels so progressive! People probably presume there's a 25 year old driving it based on my behaviour this week! 🤣
×
×
  • Create New...