Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

we're talking about a guy trying to do up his GTR and using EBC and SAFC when he should do it properly and buy a FC and remove the restrictor. Then as funds permit buy a EBC if needs be. I have removed my restrictor had PFC tuned properly and never had a problem. Put an accurate guage on the boost level and showed 1.02Bar from 4500rpm - 7200rpm. Thats pretty good in my books and even better the restrictor removal cost me nothing.

  • Replies 57
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Originally posted by GTR98

we're talking about a guy trying to do up his GTR and using EBC and SAFC when he should do it properly and buy a FC and remove the restrictor.  Then as funds permit buy a EBC if needs be.  I have removed my restrictor had PFC tuned properly and never had a problem.  Put an accurate guage on the boost level and showed 1.02Bar from 4500rpm - 7200rpm.  Thats pretty good in my books and even better the restrictor removal cost me nothing.

gtr98,

nobodys disagreeing with you,but if were talking about wasting money,u spent money on a power fc u didnt need if ur only running 1 bar.

If i ever want to do more mods one day then i dont have to sell my SAFC and buy a PFC. I havent butchered my wiring and if i ever want to return the car to standard then i can do it in about 5 mins and im sure i can sell a PFC a lot easier than a SAFC.

Im not going to get into a slagging match with you mate, so i will leave it there. Each to their own. You own a GTR built well, reliable, and great fun to drive. Dont turn it into a piece of crap like so many out there. Do it properly once and never have a problem again.

Cheers

Originally posted by GTR98

If i ever want to do more mods one day then i dont have to sell my SAFC and buy a PFC.  I havent butchered my wiring and if i ever want to return the car to standard then i can do it in about 5 mins and im sure i can sell a PFC a lot easier than a SAFC.

Im not going to get into a slagging match with you mate, so i will leave it there. Each to their own.  You own a GTR built well, reliable, and great fun to drive.  Dont turn it into a piece of crap like so many out there.  Do it properly once and never have a problem again.  

Cheers

dood wasnt trying to have a slanging match with you,i have 2 gtrs both with power fc,the point i was making was u dont need a pfc or an afc if ur only running 1 bar,standard ecu is more than capable of 1 bar,theres a number of gtrs running around with 1 bar making 240kw plus at the wheels running standard ecu

Originally posted by GTR98

And with our crapy fuels one day those motors will go POP.

rubbish.

if the tuner knows what he is doing,will run every bit aswell as a pfc car.

i know of atleast 6 or 7 cars that are running 240plus without a problem and running deep into the 11s

Originally posted by vspecv

dood wasnt trying to have a slanging match with you,i have 2 gtrs both with power fc,the point i was making was u dont need a pfc or an afc if ur only running 1 bar,standard ecu is more than capable of 1 bar,theres a number of gtrs running around with 1 bar making 240kw plus at the wheels running standard ecu

Mine is one of those cars. There are many others that I know of who have run this way for some time now without any dramas. At this range I have seen every bit as much Horse out of a car with standard comp as Power fc. Once you go higher than this then sure you need a PFC, but you also need injectors, different turbos etc. It is a big step, but if you are not looking to go higher then this then in my opinion from what I have seen on the dyno there is no benefit from the power fc.

Just in the guy you choose to do the tuning.

vspecv,

Today is the big day. Tick tock. Good luck. (and I want a ride :D )

Mick.

Originally posted by Mick Trainer

Mine is one of those cars.  There are many others that I know of who have run this way for some time now without any dramas.  At this range I have seen every bit as much Horse out of a car with standard comp as Power fc.  Once you go higher than this then sure you need a PFC, but you also need injectors, different turbos etc.  It is a big step, but if you are not looking to go higher then this then in my opinion from what I have seen on the dyno there is no benefit from the power fc.  

Just in the guy you choose to do the tuning.

vspecv,

Today is the big day.  Tick tock.  Good luck.  (and I want a ride :D )

Mick.

yep todays the day,its finished and ready to pickup,rebuild no2 is complete.

I'm a newby here so have a few questions relating to info in this thread, my apologies if it has been covered already.

where is this restrivtor you speak of?

how do you remove it?

does the factory ecu then account for the change in boost or do you have to get the car dyno'd/tuned?

i thought the r33 ecu was not programmable, therefore what can be achieved with an r33 by having it dyno'd?

thanks

Steve

Guest turbogtst

I am running modified standard cam gears set at 6 degrees advanced on the inlet and 6 degrees retarded on the exhaust, a rechipped R32 GTR ecu in my R33 GTR, 550cc injectors, stock turbo's, cat back exhaust with no cat, making 1.2 bar boost at 3800 rpm. I have had a power fc no better than a rechipped ecu same power results 250 kw at the wheels.

Y0880 - On the GTR you can run up to 1.4 but not if you intend to keep your turbos for a long time. I'm running 1 bar and have been safely for a while now and I think anything between 1bar to 1.4 is risky with the standard ceramic wheel.... especially in summer.

71LLA:

where is this restrivtor you speak of?

It is a small metalic ring that sits inside the vacuum hose on the way to the solenoid which restricts your car to the boost it runs stock. Hence the name

how do you remove it?

You pull off the vacuum pipe, and get pliers or tweezers and pull it out and reattach the vacuum pipe. Alternatively cut the part the restrictor is in (you can feel it).. and reattach the pipe.

does the factory ecu then account for the change in boost or do you have to get the car dyno'd/tuned?

The boost is not affected by the ECU here and there is no boost cut at this level... when you remove the restrcitor you get instant one bar boost.

400HP

You pull off the vacuum pipe, and get pliers or tweezers and pull it out and reattach the vacuum pipe. Alternatively cut the part the restrictor is in (you can feel it).. and reattach the pipe.  

The boost is not affected by the ECU here and there is no boost cut at this level... when you remove the restrcitor you get instant one bar boost.

Thanks for that, can you give me a clue on where *exactly* I can find this vacuum pipe? Seems to be lots of hoses under this bonnet.

And to confirm, once it's out that is it? No need to have anything done to the R33 ECU? Won't it run lean?

Thanks for that, can you give me a clue on where *exactly* I can find this vacuum pipe? Seems to be lots of hoses under this bonnet.

My digi cam is f*cked so I can't take a photo. Basically if you look on the left side of your car above and to the left of the plenum there is like a little gold cylinder about 2cm x 4cm. This is the solenoid. There will be two vacuum hoses going to this. One that goes from the bottom of it and one that goes from the side. If you feel around and squeeze the hose within the first 10 cm of the one that comes from the side you'll feel a part which has a small metal bit. Thats what yoiu need to remove.

Sorry this is the best descreiption I have of it.

And to confirm, once it's out that is it? No need to have anything done to the R33 ECU? Won't it run lean?

Thats right. Remove... done.

  • 3 weeks later...

alright people.....I'm seriously confused. I have the car booked in to get the cam gears done but I am stoked to which brand to get. I rang Sub-Zero in Q.L.D yesterday and they advised me not to get the HKS gears because they only last 25 000kms....wtf????

My number 1 problem is that I have people telling me that the HKS gears last forever and that they are really good....but on the other hand I have people telling me not to use them because they are really really shit.

What should I do?

Sorry to be a pain in the arse but I'm not in favour of buying Cam gears and them lasting only 25,000 kms. I need your opinions and info!!

Thanks again

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks for that, I'll check it all out. I can always do the brakes last anyway if its a problem.  The 16's are super cool, if they do fit I'll cruise around with them for a bit.  
    • Well, that's kinda the point. The calipers might interfere with the inside of the barrels 16" rims are only about 14" inside the barrels, which is ~350mm, and 334mm rotors only leave about 8mm outboard for the caliper before you get to 350, And.... that;s not gunna be enough. If the rims have a larger ID than that, you might sneak it in. I'd be putting a measuring stick inside the wheel and eyeballing the extra required for the caliper outboard of the rotor before committing to bolting it all on.
    • OK, so again it has been a bit of a break but it was around researching what had been done since I didn't have access to Neil's records and not everything is obvious without pulling stuff apart. Happily the guy who assembled the engine had kept reasonable records, so we now know the final spec is: Bottom end: Standard block and crank Ross 86.5mm forgies, 9:1 compression Spool forged rods Standard main bolts Oil pump Spool billet gears in standard housing Aeroflow extended and baffled sump Head Freshly rebuilt standard head with new 80lb valve springs Mild porting/port match Head oil feed restrictor VCT disabled Tighe 805C reground cams (255 duration, 8.93 lift)  Adjustable cam gears on inlet/exhaust Standard head bolts, gasket not confirmed but assumed MLS External 555cc Nismo injectors Z32 AFM Bosch 023 Intank fuel pump Garret 2871 (factory housings and manifold) Hypertune FFP plenum with standard throttle   Time to book in a trip to Unigroup
    • I forgot about my shiny new plates!
    • Well, apparently they do fit, however this wont be a problem if not because the car will be stationary while i do the suspension work. I was just going to use the 16's to roll the old girl around if I needed to. I just need to get the E90 back on the road first. Yes! I'm a believer! 🙌 So, I contacted them because the site kinda sucks and I was really confused about what I'd need. They put together a package for me and because I was spraying all the seat surfaces and not doing spot fixes I decided not to send them a headrest to colour match, I just used their colour on file (and it was spot on).  I got some heavy duty cleaner, 1L of colour, a small bottle of dye hardener and a small bottle of the dye top coat. I also got a spray gun as I needed a larger nozzle than the gun I had and it was only $40 extra. From memory the total was ~$450 ish. Its not cheap but the result is awesome. They did add repair bits and pieces to the quote originally and the cost came down significantly when I said I didn't need any repair products. I did it over a weekend. The only issues I had were my own; I forgot to mix the hardener into the dye two coats but I had enough dye for 2 more coats with the hardener. I also just used up all the dye because why not and i rushed the last coat which gave me some runs. Thankfully the runs are under the headrests. The gun pattern wasn't great, very round and would have been better if it was a line. It made it a little tricky to get consistent coverage and I think having done the extra coats probably helped conceal any coverage issues. I contacted them again a few months later so I could get our X5 done (who the f**k thought white leather was a good idea for a family car?!) and they said they had some training to do in Sydney and I could get a reduced rate on the leather fix in the X5 if I let them demo their product on our car. So I agreed. When I took Bec in the E39 to pick it up, I showed them the job I'd done in my car and they were all (students included) really impressed. Note that they said the runs I created could be fixed easily at the time with a brush or an air compressor gun. So, now with the two cars done I can absolutely recommend Colourlock.  I'll take pics of both interiors and create a new thread.
×
×
  • Create New...