Jump to content
SAU Community

MD Connection Help

grepin

By grepin,
in Car Audio & Electrical

 Share

Recommended Posts

grepin Experienced

grepin

Posted
Posted

After any sujestions for connecting a Mini Disc player into my sound system. I have a normal CD Head unit connected to two amps one running splits the other a sub. Both outputs from the existing head unit run the amps. I would like a system within the cabin where I could switch between both the MD and CD player.

Thanks for any help.

I havent approached a car audio place yet.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/6964-md-connection-help/
Share on other sites
The Tool Enthusiast

The Tool

Posted
Posted

What brand/model deck is it?

I know Pioneer sell an auxiliary kit that has rca inputs. it works via the p-bus system (same plug for pioneer stackers).

No idea on cost, but that's the best way that i know of.

The other option is to just buy a MD/CD combined head-unit. Or even better, forget the MD and get an MP3 unit. They are sooo gooood!!! :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/6964-md-connection-help/#findComment-104605
Share on other sites
grepin Experienced

grepin

Posted
  • Author
Posted

It is a Kenwood head unit so I will see if they have the same device. The MD is MP3 compatable as well as Atrac, WMA and WAV natrually. As well as up to long Play 4. Records from any media including fibre optic for true digital as well as USB. So as you understand it is not going. If anything goes the headunit could except the fact I wouldnt have radio. The MD alternates between two cars, pushbike and air travel at work and the gym on rare occasions.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/6964-md-connection-help/#findComment-104609
Share on other sites
riggaP Veteran

riggaP

Posted
Posted

This can be done. I'm planning to add a Creative Nomad Jukebox to my stereo soon. If you wanna keep it cheap and simple then you'll just have to plug the MD in whenever you want to use it.

Just connect the MD player to the amps via the RCAs. Use the headphone socket on the MD and plug a PC audio cable into it (the one that runs from the sound card to the speakers, ie headphone jack at 1 end and 2 RCAs a the other). Disconnect the RCAs from the head unit and plug them into the PC lead. You might need to get a few RCA jack to socket converter thingys (bout $2 each at electronic shops). That should be about it. In effect, the MD becomes the head unit. Just plug the RCAs back into the head unit when you want CD/radio.

I'm planning to set up a bracket in the centre console compartment to hold mine. The RCAs will come up through the bottom of the box and go to the amps and head unit. So all I'll have to do is just connect what I want, and its all tucked away neatly.

A few things to remember:

. If you have more than 1 RCA pre out one the head unit, you will lose fader control with the MD.

. If you want to connect the MD to both amps you'll need RCA spliters/double adaptors (again, about $2 from elec shops). Make sure the right channels are connected to other right channels only and vice versa.

. Does the sub amp have a built in crossover??? If not, dont connect the MD to the sub amp.

. When you first play a MD, make sure the volume is right down low. The gain settings on the amp might not agree with the signal coming from the MD... but this should not be a problem.

. This whole set up should only cost about $20-30 and take maybe 2 hours to install. I'm not sure of what quality of sound you'll get tho.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/6964-md-connection-help/#findComment-104845
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      NC MX5

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Does that German restaurant still exist in the old place out the NW end of Goulburn? When I say "out the NW end of"...I am really being vague. It was 1997 when I was last there, and the only point of reference I can recall is that it was on the opposite side of the main drag from the big merino. And when I say "opposite side of the main drag", I don't mean "on the main drag". It was either a couple of streets back from there, or might have even been out in the sticks a bit further. Was an old farm building or mill or somesuch. And when I say "the big merino" I might actually be thinking of a completely different part of town, because I just looked on maps and the big bugger is not where I remembered him to be! The food was good, consisting largely of various German mystery-meat sausage/loaf things and kartofflen.
    • GTSBoy
      R33 GTR running -9 with no tune

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      So while the second sentence is completely correct and the whole point of the conversation, the first sentence bears consideration. If this bloke is just hoping to throw big turbos on and drive it around, because there are no helpful facilities at all in his tropical paradise** then he likely has zero chance of even knowing what the TP is on the last column in the stock maps, let alone know whether the ECU is operating anywhere near it or past it. So the point is very very moot. And, per what I said before, at stock boost on those turbos, you may well be off the end of the map. **I'm just back from Vanuatu, so I know exactly what small Pacific nations can be like wrt paradise without requisite facilities. But it's not even that simple. I put a high flow on my car and had to drive it around with a proper tune because of the lack of opportunity*** to put the bigger AFM and injectors into it to allow it to be tuned. I had to turn the boost down to less than I had before, and back off the boost controller's ramp, because it was exploring parts of the map that it didn't drive in before, and really couldn't access for tuning on the dyno either, and so was pinging. It was still well within the last column, because when I first**** set up the Nistune on the Neo I rescaled all axes of the maps to give some more space to explore. ***Family dyno was broken ****This was 13 years ago, and the TIM thing wasn't a thing then and so TP would definitely grow when pushing past the stock tune's limits.
    • joshuaho96
      Squeaking clutch/throw out bearing

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Yep, this bit another local owner. I caught it before putting the transmission back into the car, what I noticed was the pressure plate fingers weren't flat and even. It's more obvious with the pull style clutch because the throwout bearing ring was visibly not flat once everything is put together. Nismo should really update their instructions to call out this specific detail. I'm not even sure the clutch as-shipped orients everything properly.
    • jayden_l33
      Squeaking clutch/throw out bearing

      By jayden_l33 · Posted

      It ended up being that orientation of the float hub in relation to the clutch disk, when I installed it, I heard a loud click and being stupid, I decided to not take it a part and check it. The hub didn't properly align with the clutch disk and was causing the issue. Definitely an odd one! Dahtone Racing was able to fix me right up, stand up blokes!      
    • joshuaho96
      R33 GTR running -9 with no tune

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Right, but I'm saying on the stock ECU measured airmass from the MAF is no higher than stock. So it's accounting for the higher flow rate iso-manifold pressure. You just have to keep turning down the boost until you're within the stock tune's load scale. If you run off the end there's no telling what will happen. This does mean there's zero benefit to the turbos you're running vs stock, if anything it's just a straight downgrade because the transient response is worse, you don't even get the ECU's boost solenoid helping to pull the wastegate closed during initial spool, and peak power is only whatever the factory map can give you before you hit the R&R corner. On a -9 I would bet that you would have to change out the wastegate spring once you have a real ECU and you're tuning it for real. I'm not saying this is a remotely ideal state of affairs, it's just a way to keep it driveable until you can get a proper tune done.
×
×
  • Create New...