Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 50
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Would drilling and tapping slightly thicker cradle bolts make the rb30 cradle any stronger?

the tourqe that is avaliable from the rb30/26 as compared to the rb26 motor is that you will make torque and power earlier on in the rev range so there is no need for it to rev as hard as a rb26.

And the rb25 has less capacity and is a step down from the rb26/30 or rb26 all together in terms of the power that is possible with the stock crank and cradle support.

I am still a neewbie when it comes building motors,so take it easy. :P

That's an RB30 block with the standard cradle......

RB30_Block_1.JPG

:D

Saw you racing on TV at Wakefield. Pretty cool class by the looks of it. On the track you looked a bit radical though. What the hell's going on with your car?

Would drilling and tapping slightly thicker cradle bolts make the rb30 cradle any stronger?

the tourqe that is avaliable from the rb30/26 as compared to the rb26 motor is that you will make torque and power earlier on in the rev range so there is no need for it to rev as hard as a rb26.

And the rb25 has less capacity and is a step down from the rb26/30 or rb26 all together in terms of the power that is possible with the stock crank and cradle support.

I am still a neewbie when it comes building motors,so take it easy. :devil:

There is not enough width in the main bearing saddle to handle larger diameter bolts. We use ARP studs, stronger than bolts.:D

Hi guyz !!! Do you know wat's the best turbo setup for RB26/30 for achieving 800hp ?  

 

I am planning to get T04Z ball bearing... Any advise or recommendation ?

T04Z is the way to go

nd4spd is back ... twin t04z

50km old engine run in tune no timing or anything

799.9 rwhp!!

ALOT more to come from it

BK are you basing your opinions on solid facts or what you have read Martin Donnan believes in HPI???!!!!! I have developed a system to adapt the gtr sump to the rb30 motor that if anything would be stronger than the standard way it is done on an rb26. On my own engine I am also running vacuum pump, a custom made girdle strengthner( retaining the stock girdle) and ati are making me a custom billet steel 4 ring harmonic damper.

I hope to achieve out of my own build around 900hp at the engine rev it to about 8200rpm and do it for a while. Nizpro have made well over 1000hp on there rb30/36 but it threw a rod through the block so they only advertsied to what they believed was the highest level safely and that was around 1000hp!!! After having talked with JUN and Veilside believe me any RB making over 1000hp has its fair share of problems, while rb30s have a major harmonic vibration at around 7.500RPM the Rb26 has the same at 9.200RPM and the same factors have to be faced in overcoming this and holding the engine together bearing wise once you start to rev the thing to make power.... You have to remember a rb30 at 7.5K is equal to the volumetric displacement of air as a Rb26 at 9K.... The problems the japs have with making that much power out rb26's is the revs place unbelievable loads on the valvetrain, veilside rebuild everything in the head every time they give there cars with over a 1000hp a full power run....

Mate it can be done but without sound engineering and mechanical knowledge it is really going to cost you an arm and a leg and maybe more, the trick will be finding someone to do it....

This might be stupid and just obvious but with high power engines, if you don't drive them hard, won't they last almost as long as a stock motor?

How's this situation:

Say you're going on a long drive - just take it real easy....... granny driving it

The rest of the time, well..... like you usually do :) or should be doing.

Well after talk to Keir Wilson at drag combat in Perth about std component strength and other issues. The biggest problem you'll will face is block strength in either the std rb26 or rb30 as i would think them quiet similar in strength. The quote that KW told me was that the std rb26 will break about 800hp (and even suggested not to go over 750hp if you wanting it reliable) And before you guys jump up and down yes they might more hp for a while but the thread was about reliable 1000hp and i think KW opinion should hold a bit of weight due to his expirence with this sort of motor.

So if your serious about a reliable big hp motor you will want to look at either GTR N1 GT block (think walled) or maybe the OS Giken 3 litre small motor.

my 2c

pete

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all,   long time listener, first time caller   i was wondering if anyone can help me identify a transistor on the climate control unit board that decided to fry itself   I've circled it in the attached photo   any help would be appreciated
    • I mean, I got two VASS engineers to refuse to cert my own coilovers stating those very laws. Appendix B makes it pretty clear what it considers 'Variable Suspension' to be. In my lived experience they can't certify something that isn't actually in the list as something that requires certification. In the VASS engineering checklist they have to complete (LS3/NCOP11) and sign on there is nothing there. All the references inside NCOP11 state that if it's variable by the driver that height needs to maintain 100mm while the car is in motion. It states the car is lowered lowering blocks and other types of things are acceptable. Dialling out a shock is about as 'user adjustable' as changing any other suspension component lol. I wanted to have it signed off to dissuade HWP and RWC testers to state the suspension is legal to avoid having this discussion with them. The real problem is that Police and RWC/Pink/Blue slip people will say it needs engineering, and the engineers will state it doesn't need engineering. It is hugely irritating when aforementioned people get all "i know the rules mate feck off" when they don't, and the actual engineers are pleasant as all hell and do know the rules. Cars failing RWC for things that aren't listed in the RWC requirements is another thing here entirely!
    • I don't. I mean, mine's not a GTR, but it is a 32 with a lot of GTR stuff on it. But regardless, I typically buy from local suppliers. Getting stuff from Japan is seldom worth the pain. Buying from RHDJapan usually ends up in the final total of your basket being about double what you thought it would be, after all the bullshit fees and such are added on.
    • The hydrocarbon component of E10 can be shittier, and is in fact, shittier, than that used in normal 91RON fuel. That's because the octane boost provided by the ethanol allows them to use stuff that doesn't make the grade without the help. The 1c/L saving typically available on E10 is going to be massively overridden by the increased consumption caused by the ethanol and the crappier HC (ie the HCs will be less dense, meaning that there will definitely be less energy per unit volume than for more dense HCs). That is one of the reasons why P98 will return better fuel consumption than 91 does, even with the ignition timing completely fixed. There is more energy per unit volume because the HCs used in 98 are higher density than in the lawnmower fuel.
    • No, I'd suggest that that is the checklist for pneumatic/hydraulic adjustable systems. I would say, based on my years of reading and complying with Australian Standards and similar regulations, that the narrow interpretation of Clause 3.2 b would be the preferred/expected/intended one, by the author, and those using the standard. Wishful thinking need not apply.
×
×
  • Create New...