Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have just installed an Apexi Super Suction with super intake air filer to my stagea. To fit I had to take the radiator overflow catch tank out, and have a temperary one for now. Have other people had the same problem? Does anyone know what I could replace it with. I measured 3/4L that it needs so I need to find a small one that can fit somewhere .

What have other people done/used?

I will have to enclose the POD at some stage for more cooler air.

I have just installed an Apexi Super Suction with super intake air filer to my stagea. To fit I had to take the radiator overflow catch tank out, and have a temperary one for now.  Have other people had the same problem?  Does anyone know what I could replace it with. I measured 3/4L that it needs so I need to find a small one that can fit somewhere .

What have other people done/used?  

I will have to enclose the POD at some stage for more cooler air.

You shoulda just bought the rampod by itself. It just bolts omto your airflow meter. I have one. I'm gonna buy a carbonfibre box for it to sit in.

You can easily make one yourself. Use cardboard to stencil it first, then get hold of some 3-5mm alluminum and cut and bent to shape. To join the lid to the sides (and sides to body) you can use L-brackets with a bolt and threaded hole.

PS: You only need to make 2 sides and this could be done out of one alluminum piece. The other 2 side are formed by the car body.

Note: A pre-fabricated air box my not be suitable, as they are designed for one type of air pod, thus you may have to modifiy it to fit. DO NOT ATTEMPT TO MODIFY CARBIN FIBRE.

(Unable to take better pictures as my car is currently at the paint shop)

I think will look at buying a smaller plastic overflow tank from nissan first, if not then i'll do what Al said and make a custom one.

Also I am going to swap my air intake snorkel and replace it with a GTR one as it is wider and closer to the front and edge of engine bay so it will be right near my air filter. Ill have pics in a few weeks.

Emanuelt....

I love that duct. I'm trying to do a section in the standard duct at the monent.....

Are you using your standard duct anymore?? Can I borrow/buy it from you?

I need a prototype to play with.

  • 1 month later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Price seems pretty good to me. Also seems a hell of a lot cheaper then buying another vehicle that only ever gets used for towing.  I'm a long way from you mate, I'm a couple of hours out of Brizzy. 
    • New [400]Z, they're available in manual and you don't have to worry about parts scarcity. 
    • Just planning to have the wiring neat and hide as much as possible.
    • The sodium acetate, mixed with citric acid, doesn't actually buffer each other. Interestingly though, if you used Sodium Acetate, and acetic acid, THAT becomes a buffer solution. Additionally, a weak acid that can attack a metal, is still a weak acid that can attack a metal. If you don't neutralise it, and wash it off, it's going to be able to keep attacking. It works the same way when battery acid dries, get that stuff somewhere, and then it gets wet, and off it goes again breaking things down. There's a reason why people prefer a weak acid, and it's because they want TIME to be able to be on their side. IE, DIY guys are happy to leave some mild steel in vinegar for 24 hours to get mill scale off. However, if you want to do it chemically in industry, you grab the muriatic acid. If you want to do it quicker at home, go for the acetic acid if you don't want muriatic around. At the end of the day, look at the above thumbnail, as it proves what I said in the earlier post, you can clean that fuel tank up all you want with the solution, but the rust that has now been removed was once the metal of the fuel tank. So how thin in spots is your fuel tank getting? If the magazine on the left, is the actual same magazine as on the right, you'll notice it even introduces more holes... Well, rust removal in general actually does that. The fuel tank isn't very thick. So, I'll state again, look to replace the tank, replace the fuel hanger, and pump, work out how the rust and shit is making it past the fuel filter, and getting into the injectors. That is the real problem. If the fuel filter were doing its job, the injectors wouldn't be blocked.
    • Despite having minimal clothing because of the hot weather right now, I did have rubber gloves and safety glasses on just in-case for most of the time. Yes, I was scrubbing with my gloves on before, but brushing with a brush removes the remaining rust. To neutralize, I was thinking distilled water and baking soda, or do you think that would be overkill?
×
×
  • Create New...