Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just wondering if anyone could help me out on specs and a bit of a "How To" build a tube for a 10inch MTX thunder sub? I know that you use PVC piping but just asking if anyone builds/has built one to kinda give a run down on the procedure.

Cheers GMB

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/70443-building-a-10-tube/
Share on other sites

Look at the spec sheet you got with your sub!

It will tell you the correct volume you need for a sealed and ported box, it will also tell you the diameter, length and number of ports requried. Adhere to these specs strictly as if you dont, the sub will sound very bad

EEERRRR in correct, would you like to phone a friend. I dont want to build a ported or sealed box as i have done that in the past. Specs on the sub dont come into the way i build the "TUBE" not box as i know its got to be 2 feet per sub and obviously the correct diametre for the woofer to fit with the MBF ring cut inside the PVC pipe. What i wanted to know was has anyone built them in the past and if they could give me a step by step kinda guide for that and the process that they used.

As for adhearing to the specs that the manufacture give you i think if you ask anyone that knows what there doing when it comes to subs that there not worthe much as every woofer is different and every install the driver is going to be used differently!!!!

EEERRRR in correct, would you like to phone a friend.  I dont want to build a ported or sealed box as i have done that in the past.  Specs on the sub dont come into the way i build the "TUBE" not box as i know its got to be 2 feet per sub and obviously the correct diametre for the woofer to fit with the MBF ring cut inside the PVC pipe.  What i wanted to know was has anyone built them in the past and if they could give me a step by step kinda guide for that and the process that they used.

As for adhearing to the specs that the manufacture give you i think if you ask anyone that knows what there doing when it comes to subs that there not worthe much as every woofer is different and every install the driver is going to be used differently!!!!

Not having a go at you Badhabit as i know you work in this industry but im sick of people telling me to adhere to the specs if i want to buld a ported/sealed box. I want to build a TUBE not a box as its lighter, not as big and easier for placement and removing in and out of the boot. Thanks for the reply and dont take my post the wrong way at all as im not having a go, just venting some steam after getting home from work. :)

Ahh sweet dude, I mistook what you said, thought you meant 'ports'

Well, I dont have too much experience with a Bazooka styled tube, but I see no reason why pvc pipe wont work, just make sure whatever you use is solid so there is no flex!

I agree, bass tubes are easier to move around and can give awesome bass if made correctly! Hope that helps a bit more

Ahh sweet dude, I mistook what you said, thought you meant 'ports'

Well, I dont have too much  experience  with a Bazooka styled tube, but I see no reason why pvc pipe wont work, just make sure whatever you use is solid so there is no flex!

I agree, bass tubes are easier to move around and can give awesome bass if made correctly! Hope that helps a bit more

What i'm after is an elxploded diagram or a set of build instructions for making a tube if you know where i could get my hands on a set?

if you have the recommended volume for the sub then a bit of calculation is all that is really needed. to make one I would start with a 300mm dia tube. fill the ends with 20mm mdf and seal it WELL. fibreglass resin would be a start. ( this is for the back of it.)

for the front cut the hole for the sub. as a rule its usually 25mm less than the sub size.

for ports if the volume is correct then the recommended size will work fine.

( have done a few of them.)

  • 2 weeks later...
Do a search on home theartre subs. I know there are quite a few people who have built them for this application and got good results. I remember seeing a tutorial somewhere on the web..

I'll see what i can find!

  • 3 weeks later...
I'll see what i can find!

Could you let me know if you find something?. I want to do the same thing in the back of my R32 and mount it in the boot under the parcel shelf.

I was thinking of using mdf and building a false floor but i agree its too much weight.

I dunno about using PVC pipe though unless it was pretty thick stuff, i figured it would sound a bit funny even with baffling.. ?

Could you let me know if you find something?. I want to do the same thing in the back of my R32 and mount it in the boot under the parcel shelf.  

I was thinking of using mdf and building a false floor but i agree its too much weight.

I dunno about using PVC pipe though unless it was pretty thick stuff, i figured it would sound a bit funny even with baffling.. ?

I have built 2 now. One with cardboard and the other PVC pipe. The PVC sounds better in my opinion but everyone is different. Not much to them really and it doesn't take all that long to make them, just have to be precise with your measurements and cuts and screw/glue it all together.

Tell me what ya want to know and i'll try to help ya out. I'll post some pics up when i get my camera back and if i ahve time i'll put up a vid of what they sound like :D

Kool ive got a few Questions :P

Where the hell would i find 10" PVC pipe ? Are the pipe walls really thick and you can screw the sub into em? or are you sealing it with something? or both?

did you try with/without baffling?

How does it look ? i want to carpet mine and make it nice and mount properly.

your happy with it?? compares well to a MDF box?

Movie!! I be happy with a few pics though :)

Kool ive got a few Questions :rofl:

Where the hell would i find 10" PVC pipe ? Are the pipe walls really thick and you can screw the sub into em? or are you sealing it with something? or both?

did you try with/without baffling?

How does it look ? i want to carpet mine and make it nice and mount properly.  

your happy with it?? compares well to a MDF box?

 

Movie!! I be happy with a few pics though :D

Go and check out you local plumbing store as they can get it for you or do what i did and went down the road where there are some road works being down and water mains being replaced ( found this method a lot cheaper too :wassup: )

You cut up MDF rings that you screw/glue to the inside of the PVC and cut the inlet out for the sub and screw the sub to the MDF ring.

My tubes are ported so no baffling and i dont think you need it as there a small enclosure to begin with.

I have carpeted one and sprayed the ends that i got and i have made up some mounting blocks so i can strap it down in the boot.

I think they look ok for what they cost me and the job there doing.

I have only hooked them upto a friends amp so far which does not have a low pass filter or a inbuilt x-over either but they both sound pretty good.

I'll get some pics up asap and let me know if i can help ya out at all if you decide to build on???

Im gonna give it a shot. As long as the price is right. i was told 300mm pvc is $65 a metre by bunnings (they dont keep any on hand) Ill ring around some plumbing places tomorrow and see. And then the dude at bunnings was going on about how shit it would be and to build a wood box instead. pffft.

im gonna make one and ill compare it to my premade 10" box. Even just in the name of science. Ive got a couple of ideas for the look of it too so i hope it works out.

so yeh some pics would be great. [email protected] if its easier and no one else is interested.

another alterative is to make two rings out of MDF so that they are larger than the outside area than the sub itself (so that you can bolt it onto it) cut the hole out for the sub to sit inside of, then after you have taken your measurements of how long it is going to be, get about 4 lengths of wood (does not need to be very thick ) and attach each end to the MDF Rings this should give you a skelital shaped cylinder get some speaker cloth and wrap it and secure it around the shape of the wood frame making sure it is nice and tight, make up some resin and apply to cloth allow to dry (about 12-18hours) then add you fibreglass you will need about 4 layers of resin and glass once this is dry you have a totally sealed light weight tube, then it is just a matter of sanding and putty and more sanding then you can paint it or cover it in a nice cloth of some kind - to give it more bass you can stuff it with a filler

another alterative is to make two rings out of MDF so that they are larger than the outside area than the sub itself (so that you can bolt it onto it) cut the hole out for the sub to sit inside of, then after you have taken your measurements of how long it is going to be, get about 4 lengths of wood (does not need to be very thick ) and attach each end to the MDF Rings this should give you a skelital shaped cylinder get some speaker cloth and wrap it and secure it around the shape of the wood frame making sure it is nice and tight, make up some resin and apply to cloth allow to dry (about 12-18hours) then add you fibreglass you will need about 4 layers of resin and glass once this is dry you have a totally sealed light weight tube, then it is just a matter of sanding and putty and more sanding then you can paint it or cover it in a nice cloth of some kind - to give it more bass you can stuff it with a filler

It would be hole heap easier if you were to just use cardboard to wrap around then fibreglass that instead of the cloth!!!

Thats the way i built one of them and the other out of PVC just to see which one was better.

Working on those pics :wassup:

interesting though. Ive never looked into using fibreglass . i just want to keep this one simple and cover PVC in carpet. The small idea ive got is putting a thin neon light inside the tube and cut out the word SKYLINE or something into the PVC.Then use some tinted plexi/perspex to cover underneath. Ill heat it up and form it into a curve to fit and make it airtight. Hopefully it will look the goods and not tacky

Gotta get the pipe and also figure out the airspace i need for a 10" kicker sub. ill do some searching on this unless its allways the same for basic 10" sub like mine?

interesting though. Ive never looked into using fibreglass . i just want to keep this one simple and cover PVC in carpet. The small idea ive got is putting a thin neon light inside the tube and cut out the word SKYLINE or something into the PVC.Then use some tinted plexi/perspex to cover underneath. Ill heat it up and form it into a curve to fit and make it airtight. Hopefully it will look the goods and not tacky

Gotta get the pipe and also figure out the airspace i need for a 10" kicker sub. ill do some searching on this unless its allways the same for basic 10" sub like mine?

I got some pics so i get em to ya asap, hopefully it will give you some idea of what you ahve to do. The neon/skylines thing sounds pretty cool, be good to see how it comes out?

interesting though. Ive never looked into using fibreglass . i just want to keep this one simple and cover PVC in carpet. The small idea ive got is putting a thin neon light inside the tube and cut out the word SKYLINE or something into the PVC.Then use some tinted plexi/perspex to cover underneath. Ill heat it up and form it into a curve to fit and make it airtight. Hopefully it will look the goods and not tacky

Gotta get the pipe and also figure out the airspace i need for a 10" kicker sub. ill do some searching on this unless its allways the same for basic 10" sub like mine?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Who did you have do the installation? I actually know someone who is VERY familiar with the AVS gear. The main point of contact though would be your installer.   Where are you based in NZ?
    • Look, realistically, those are some fairly chunky connectors and wires so it is a reasonably fair bet that that loom was involved in the redirection of the fuel pump and/or ECU/ignition power for the immobiliser. It's also fair to be that the new immobiliser is essentially the same thing as the old one, and so it probably needs the same stuff done to make it do what it has to do. Given that you are talking about a car that no-one else here is familiar with (I mean your exact car) and an alarm that I've never heard of before and so probably not many others are familiar with, and that some wire monkey has been messing with it out of our sight, it seems reasonable that the wire monkey should be fixing this.
    • Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
×
×
  • Create New...