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I had my car tuned and dynoed late last year with a reputatable tuner in Melbourne my car made 195rwkw (mods are in sig). They said the car was making very good power for the mods the had. I was very happy with the job done and the care they took.

Couple of weeks ago I entered the dyno comp at. The car was running great but it only made 156k atrw. I told the dyno operator the power my car had previously made on another dyno. He said that there a lot of people out there who are tuning cars and giving extra high readings to the customer to keep them happy. But everyones figures seemed very low to me, stock 300zx manual 136rwkw and, EL straight six falcon with full exhaust and CAI 75rwkw where a couple of examples.

Having done my research on the forums it seems most people with these mods seem to have from 180 to 200rwkw (correct me if im wrong).

Last week later i watched a DVD called grunt files with a very interesting part about dyno's. They showed who how a dyno/car should be set up for a power run on a dyno if the operator does not pay attention to all steps the figures could be out by a long way.

After watching this I relized that guys running the dyno comp missed some very important steps.

Some of the steps from the DVD included.

1. The inlet temp sensor must be in the airbox or on pod. (not done at comp)

2. Exhaust temp sensor must be in the exhaust. (not sure if this one was done or not).

3. Humidity, temperature, and altitude must be entered on the PC.

4. Fan to represent the car on the road. (not done at comp im surprised my car didnt detonate like hell)

This DVD is worth a look for this section alone.

So people beware that if you are going to enter a dyno comp that all the necessary steps are being taken or else you will get inaccurate readings.

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136rwkw seems high for a stock 300zx manual though.

at one dyno day i went to i saw a few 300zx manuals all pull around 125-130rwkw i was scared because i thought my r33 was only good for that..

my near stock r33 pulled 165rwkw which was definetly way higher than usual on that same day.

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I'm tired of dyno figures. they suck arse. :D

I know my stock 32 went from 115rwkw to 125rwkw to 152rwkw to 164rwkw then down to 160rwkw then up to 176rwkw (with pfc & Rb30).

The 115 (stock psi), 125(stock psi), 152(12.5psi) & 164rwkw(15psi) was the same dyno.

160rwkw(15psi) and 176rwkw(9psi) was on a different dyno

I've used 3 dyno's in Adelaide, all very close together. Within 3rwkw.

Temp sensor placed correctly, tyre pressure the same etc.

That being said, A dyno is only usefull for comparing figures for your self or others that have used the same dyno & operator.

sexy-gtst.. what were your AFR's like?

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150rwkw in mine used to have it spinning up 225's through first as soon as it came on boost when rolling slowly then planting it. Slight lag then wheel spin and a bit of axle tramp on the stock soft suspension. :D

Quick change in to second could have it swinging the arse end around until road speed caught up to 7000rpm (100km/h approx).

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150rwkw in mine used to have it spinning up 225's through first as soon as it came on boost when rolling slowly then planting it. Slight lag then wheel spin and a bit of axle tramp on the stock soft suspension. :)

 

Quick change in to second could have it swinging the arse end around until road speed caught up to 7000rpm (100km/h approx).

Thats why you should spend some cash on your tyres. Those Bob Jane - Assie all rounders are good for 200,000 km, but they have as much grip as seven layers of pig snot on a door handle. :)

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Thats why you should spend some cash on your tyres. Those Bob Jane - Assie all rounders are good for 200,000 km, but they have as much grip as seven layers of pig snot on a door handle. :D

lol.. believe it or not that around that time I was running Goodyear F1's & bridgestone donuts. Supposively they are supposed to grip well.

The RB20DET is a different motor to the RB25. The RB25DET making 178rwkw I drove was very linear. No snapping affect like the RB20DET.

The RB20DET felt as if it was able to snap sideways out of a corner easier than the RB25DET.

Recently I've been running Simex 225 50' 16's as they grip better than the bridgestone and goodyears for acceleration, the last set I got almost 40,000km's out of. :)

Their cornering ability is less than desired (very soft sidewall), not to mention wet weather. lol

This time around I think i'll try the Sumitomo SRIXON4 or a set of Toyo Tranpath SW, not too sure. I'm still googling. ;)

I want some thing that i can get decent kays out of yet have decent straight line grip.

I may step back to the sloppy jallopy Simex.

I'm not much of a corner thrasher anyway. Not on the streets anyhow. :)

Simex are decent for grip for what they are. I remember Rev210 ran his 12.9 on 205 simex tyres. lol

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It has been said before but I will say it again

A dyno is a tuning device ONLY

Dyno figures dont win drags or circuits. If they did the race would be won or lost in the workshop, and there would be no point going on the track.

sorry but a dyno is an indication of how much power u have at the wheels it is not only used for tuning!...

:)

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sorry but a dyno is an indication of how much power u have at the wheels it is not only used for tuning!...

:)

A dyno will indicate the improvemanet of power for a given set of modifications, (provided you use the same dyno and they are consistent in their readings), but gives little to no indication of how the car will perform on the road.

eg - I'll take a 100rwkw bike over a 300rwkw car, but even in this example ther are so many variables that could make one a lot better than an other.

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