Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys,

Im thinking of upgrading my turbo from a HKS GT3037Pro S to a HKS T04R. With the 3037 before engine rebuild I had full boost(14psi) by 4000rpm but now with the new engine with a p'n'p head with 256(in) 264(ex) cams I would think responce would be a bit quicker, so with the larger T04R installed would I see much more lag?

Is the T04R ball bearing or bushes type turbo? I was told some of the T04R's came with roller bearings, so how would you tell?

Id like to have a reasonably responsive engine with good power, so I didnt know whether the T04R would be too laggy. Any sugestions whether I should keep the 3037 or go for the T04R or even go something different again would be helpful.

Thanks

:rofl:

Ill buy that 3037proS off you, if you are considering updating to the T04R :P

Sorry but i already have a sale for it if I decide to go ahead with it :) thats why I was considering it cause I can sell mine straight away and I know where there is a really good S/H t04r for sale.

what motor are we talking about/what specs?

Sorry I should have explained a bit more.

My previous setup was on a internally standard RB25DET with a few bolt on's such as big injectors, FMIC, 3" exhaust, haltech E11, and a HKS GT3037Pro s running 14psi which I got 270rwkw from, full boost by 4000rpm, until wound up the boost too much and took the edge off a piston :D

New setup has a strengthen bottom end too withstand the power increase plus the head been port 'n' polished with 256(in) 264(ex) cams and up rated valve springs, front facing plenum with large throttle body, 4" exhaust, turbo undecided??

I’m not gonna get much over 300rwkw from the 3037 but should be very responsive but will need to run pretty high boost to get that sort of power.... so if I went to a t04r top end will be a huge difference but how much response would I loose? and not being a balling bearing turbo would I be especially down grading turbo's? but I could run in easy 300rwkw without running heaps of boost through the engine so I really dont know whether to go ahead with it all :confused:

Sorry for being so long winded :zzz:

if you made 270rwkw @ 14psi, running 20psi will net you over 300rwkw.

with 4" exhaust (a must) and other things... you'll crack 300 no problem

i'd stay with the 3037 personally. It would be a true street weapon then. Damn fast.

My GT30 600hp comes on and sounds similar to what you have (on your old motor)

just that mine was 2 psi more for the 270rwkw. Which is negligable, dyno dependant i'd say

Stick with the 3037 much more than 300rwkw and u struggle for traction (well i imagine i will when i get there) and then breaking things down the rear end could come into it.

Having come from an old t04e with a int gated rear... i would never go back to a non bb turbo. They are not as progressive.

GT30 is smoother in the way it builds boost, the t04 was more snappy which i didnt personally like.

Just my thoughts for ya :D

you'll net a mid 11 sec pass id imagine and would be a circuit beast. Whatever tickles your fancy.

If your not happy once its all done maybe then change the turbo then? Wont cost much and only a change in the dump pipe possibly

Thanks Nismoid, I think the 3037 is a far more advanced turbo than the t04r thats way I dont really wont to get rid of it really. I prefer circuit racing over drag racing so im not really chasing huge hp, although 350kw would be cool, so I think I might just stay with 3037 and just see what it does and just go from there. To ugrade at a later date shouldnt cost much anyway cause I will always get good $'s for the HKS 3037.

Cheers

hrmm thanks for the heads up on the 3037ProS.

 

Sounds exactly what I want.

 

Tell me.  

Are you still running on the stock exh. manifold?

What size exhaust a/r are you running?

Yeah I was running the stock exh manifold, but I have now bought one of the stainless tubular ones from the states off ebay see how that goes dont really care if it cracks or whatever only owes me $200 and it cant be any worse than shitty stock manifold.

As for the a/r I really dont know if its a .68 or .87 and I dont know where to find it on the turbo either. Does anyone know how I can find out?

:(

Take a pic, its easy to tell the size by looking how FAT it looks. :P

 

.68 looks near stock. There is a definite noticable difference between .68 and the .87.

 

Judging by your spool I would say you are running the .87.

Yeah its a hell of alot bigger than stock, so I would say it was a .87

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
    • For race cars, this is one part where I find having the roll cage bar having gone through a hole in the floor better than the build it up on a ledge inside... The Merc I help on, the main hoop ends are marked on the car, and the jack is marked... Jack goes under a few inches and lifts one whole side of the car up... Removes that fight for long slim jacks for race car duties!   My biggest issue for the daily drivers I work on, is my jacks don't go high enough. The jacks start out on a few blocks, jack it up, then start a second jack under it on more blocks, and then I can get an axle stand under it. My axle stands are presently in use, and are nearly fully extended. The car is sitting with barely more than a cm of clearance to get the wheel off the studs! Sarah's Kluger is the same, as it has an ungodly amount of droop available in the suspension and a distinct lack of good jacking points!
    • Happy? Yep, my to do list is getting shorter and shorter. Either this light approaching is the end of the tunnel, or I'm about to be hit by a train... Ha ha ha   Also, Duncan isn't that far out of town that you need to make a multi day drive out of it. 😛
×
×
  • Create New...