Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys,

Im thinking of upgrading my turbo from a HKS GT3037Pro S to a HKS T04R. With the 3037 before engine rebuild I had full boost(14psi) by 4000rpm but now with the new engine with a p'n'p head with 256(in) 264(ex) cams I would think responce would be a bit quicker, so with the larger T04R installed would I see much more lag?

Is the T04R ball bearing or bushes type turbo? I was told some of the T04R's came with roller bearings, so how would you tell?

Id like to have a reasonably responsive engine with good power, so I didnt know whether the T04R would be too laggy. Any sugestions whether I should keep the 3037 or go for the T04R or even go something different again would be helpful.

Thanks

:rofl:

Ill buy that 3037proS off you, if you are considering updating to the T04R :P

Sorry but i already have a sale for it if I decide to go ahead with it :) thats why I was considering it cause I can sell mine straight away and I know where there is a really good S/H t04r for sale.

what motor are we talking about/what specs?

Sorry I should have explained a bit more.

My previous setup was on a internally standard RB25DET with a few bolt on's such as big injectors, FMIC, 3" exhaust, haltech E11, and a HKS GT3037Pro s running 14psi which I got 270rwkw from, full boost by 4000rpm, until wound up the boost too much and took the edge off a piston :D

New setup has a strengthen bottom end too withstand the power increase plus the head been port 'n' polished with 256(in) 264(ex) cams and up rated valve springs, front facing plenum with large throttle body, 4" exhaust, turbo undecided??

I’m not gonna get much over 300rwkw from the 3037 but should be very responsive but will need to run pretty high boost to get that sort of power.... so if I went to a t04r top end will be a huge difference but how much response would I loose? and not being a balling bearing turbo would I be especially down grading turbo's? but I could run in easy 300rwkw without running heaps of boost through the engine so I really dont know whether to go ahead with it all :confused:

Sorry for being so long winded :zzz:

if you made 270rwkw @ 14psi, running 20psi will net you over 300rwkw.

with 4" exhaust (a must) and other things... you'll crack 300 no problem

i'd stay with the 3037 personally. It would be a true street weapon then. Damn fast.

My GT30 600hp comes on and sounds similar to what you have (on your old motor)

just that mine was 2 psi more for the 270rwkw. Which is negligable, dyno dependant i'd say

Stick with the 3037 much more than 300rwkw and u struggle for traction (well i imagine i will when i get there) and then breaking things down the rear end could come into it.

Having come from an old t04e with a int gated rear... i would never go back to a non bb turbo. They are not as progressive.

GT30 is smoother in the way it builds boost, the t04 was more snappy which i didnt personally like.

Just my thoughts for ya :D

you'll net a mid 11 sec pass id imagine and would be a circuit beast. Whatever tickles your fancy.

If your not happy once its all done maybe then change the turbo then? Wont cost much and only a change in the dump pipe possibly

Thanks Nismoid, I think the 3037 is a far more advanced turbo than the t04r thats way I dont really wont to get rid of it really. I prefer circuit racing over drag racing so im not really chasing huge hp, although 350kw would be cool, so I think I might just stay with 3037 and just see what it does and just go from there. To ugrade at a later date shouldnt cost much anyway cause I will always get good $'s for the HKS 3037.

Cheers

hrmm thanks for the heads up on the 3037ProS.

 

Sounds exactly what I want.

 

Tell me.  

Are you still running on the stock exh. manifold?

What size exhaust a/r are you running?

Yeah I was running the stock exh manifold, but I have now bought one of the stainless tubular ones from the states off ebay see how that goes dont really care if it cracks or whatever only owes me $200 and it cant be any worse than shitty stock manifold.

As for the a/r I really dont know if its a .68 or .87 and I dont know where to find it on the turbo either. Does anyone know how I can find out?

:(

Take a pic, its easy to tell the size by looking how FAT it looks. :P

 

.68 looks near stock. There is a definite noticable difference between .68 and the .87.

 

Judging by your spool I would say you are running the .87.

Yeah its a hell of alot bigger than stock, so I would say it was a .87

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
×
×
  • Create New...