Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 2 months later...
  • Replies 44
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I used the cut diagram in the first post but the holes are way off, is this for a r32 4door because mines a 2dr.

I've checked the black dots on the paper cut out under the PDF piece and they are right on the money but for some reason on the car they don't align with all the holes.

Any help appreciated.

Hi,

Definitely for R32 2 door (1989)

To be honest, I have not tried printing it out, as I own no printer, but somebody else said that they had used it successfully above.

Have you measured all the dimensions on your MDF to ensure that each of the measurements is the same on the diagram?

Hi,

Definitely for R32 2 door (1989)

To be honest, I have not tried printing it out, as I own no printer, but somebody else said that they had used it successfully above.  

Have you measured all the dimensions on your MDF to ensure that each of the measurements is the same on the diagram?

Yeah i made sure all the lengths were correct but the holes didn't line up 100%.

Probably just a off centre drill (didn't have a drill press) but i worked it out.

Thanks.

Hi,

Definitely for R32 2 door (1989)

To be honest, I have not tried printing it out, as I own no printer, but somebody else said that they had used it successfully above.  

Have you measured all the dimensions on your MDF to ensure that each of the measurements is the same on the diagram?

They are slightly off but not that far. Very easy to fix if you just counter sink the screws as well :uh-huh:

Although having said that i couldn't get over the difference for the 2door install to the 4 door install.

WIll post up pics and info in another thread so im not hijacking Predator's thread :innocent:

Cheers B

  • 8 months later...
  • 2 weeks later...

the old speakers have plastic spacers that come out...you're removing those and fitting these wooden ones of about the same thickness.

The skins go on, and you wouldn't know that I had 6" speakers in there. The skin is screwed to the bottom of the door as per normal, and the bottom right toggle is still used.

Pics would only show it looking as per factory with the skins back on.

  • 2 months later...
  • 1 year later...
  • 4 weeks later...

I used this yesterday to get my install done. It's all ended up working well but the diagram needed some modification. I think the mounting holes for the OEM speaker bracket are done after manufacture by whoever is screwing it in, so they all end up in a slightly different place for each car. Either way, the diagram really helped so thanks a lot.

  • 11 months later...

sorry to re-bump and old thread but the links are broken again

can someone pm me them please?

also is it worth doing this or modify the stock bracket to accept some 5x7's? i've been doing some measuring and i reckon with some spacers they'd fit (not sure about door skin clearance)

  • 2 months later...
  • 1 year later...

thread revival..

does anyone have an after-shot of 6.5 splits into their r32 doors?

i noticed from the sticky that:

"R32 - 4x6" front, 6.5" rear (Plate in front doors will see a 6" in there)"

just wondering how much it will effect the factory grill with that extra 0.5", I dont want to alter the look of it, not keen to hack up a chunk out of it to fit the 6.5's otherwise ill leave them as is.

would i be better off with 6"?

(tossing up between 6.5 alpine type R splits or 6" JL C2 splits)

Regards,

Yao

Edited by okooko
  • 2 weeks later...

Well considering there is no Edit button that I could see here are the photos of the template in use. I haven't screwed the speakers in yet as I haven't wired up the car yet but everything seems to fit fine. Sorry about the crap quality, was taken on an Iphone 3g. As others have said some of the screw holes don't line up, I was able to line up the top 2 holes but redrilled holes for the bottom 2 screws. I'm not very good with woodwork so this is just evidence that anybody can make and install these pods. As mentioned earlier when printing out the template do it in Illustrator and make sure there is no scaling on and if your printer is like mine and doesn't print the bottom line don't panic because the diagonal lines going to that part work out to be 70mm to the edge of the paper so just bust your ruler out and line up the diagonal line and finish the line to the edge of the paper.

pod1.th.jpgpod2.th.jpgpod3.th.jpg

the door trim sits tight against the speaker using the 12mm MDF but there was no need to try and force the trim on. Also you have plenty of clearance for the power windows as well. This is installed on a 93 GTS-T 2 Door. No modification to the "Active Speaker" grills needed either.

Edited by Triptych

I'm beginning to think that there are 2 types of 2 door R32 front speaker hole styles. The template and it's holes were nothing like mine (R32 GTS-T 1990). I created my own template and here is a pic for reference and comparison with predator's. Also I am pretty sure i have the same door style as raz0r$harP.UK as stated in post #12. I used 12mm MDF from Bunnings and the door trim will not go over it.

post-71802-1282403743_thumb.jpg

Lets see if we can work out where things are going wrong for some people. Did early and late models come out with the"Active Speaker" grills because I thought I saw somewhere that early models didn't have the Active Speaker but of course I could be wrong.

If somebody who couldn't get this template to work could upload their stock plastic speaker surround it might help us out a little bit more. Now the holes were not perfect on mine either I could get the 2 top holes to line up but had to redrill the bottom 2 (was only a few mm off) but as I said I had no issue with the door trim. You may have notice how far back I countersunk the screws on my pod but that was mistake by buying screws that were to short.

Here are the stock plastic pods from my 93 R32 GTS-T 2 door with active speaker grill.

post-27369-1282533840_thumb.jpg

Front

post-27369-1282534128_thumb.jpg

Back

Also don't forget to countersink your screws as well because remember you adding a few more mm's on top of the 12mm MDF leaving the screws sitting above the wood.

[EDIT] After reading through the post again maybe it isn't a year model difference. Hmm I wonder where things are going wrong for some people.

Edited by Triptych

Well, i was measuring and all yesterday. My speaker didn't actually fit in the speaker door hole (hole was cut too high i guess), the top bit of the new speaker was interfereing with the door skin cave in (as it added extra mm). Measured the gap in the cave in and it was roughly 9mm, so the 12mm would've been hitting/touching the door skins anyways. I actually have screws that are too long lol.

Yes I do have 'active speakers' and yes the plastic OEM moulds look exactly the same.

Edited by TyresBro

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The HG high flow is excellent, and costs about the $$ you're talking about. But it, and probably every other highflow, uses a diffeent core than the original turo, and the original Hitatchi core is quite long. So, I think it is inevitable that there is likely no such thing as a highflow that just "bolts on" with no other effort required. And the same is likely true for HG's outright replacement "bolt on" turbos (the ATR things). And the same is likely true for anything similar from elsewhere. I have no idea if the cheap Chinese/Taiwanese complete turbos from eBay/Temu/etc are as bolt on as they claim. I mean, they claim the bolt onto the NAs as well as the turbos, and we know that can't be "bolt on". But it wouldn't matter because I'm not buying a $169 4 psi turbo for anything other than a paddock basher.
    • Bummer...yeah i "need" something to "ease" up the work and for my driving it would be enough.    Iam counting the tune "without" turbo. I do not mean "cheap" like something from Temu around 200 USD, "Cheap" is something around 1000 USD? 
    • Starter motors used to use the weight of metal (magnets) to provide torque. Now they use (more) current instead. This. It's completely normal.
    • So thing that had me stumped, but I think is OK....is that when it was up in the air, in neutral I had it running to bleed to coolant while I put the wheels back on. I noticed the rears were turning (slowly) which I'd never seen before 20250928_163512.mp4     Because there had been an issue with clutch slip due to pedal adjustment on the dyno, I assumed there was still and issue so spent some quality time upside down under the dash adjusting the pedal....but no matter what I did the wheels still turned in neutral. Even disconnected the master cylinder to pedal rod and same. In despair, I even removed the clutch slave so there was no chance of any preload causing it.....still happened. So either: 1. Something is not right in the bellhousing, or 2. Its a thing sometimes with cold, thick gearbox oil Internet says it might be 2, I hope so!
    • OK, few more things sorted and it is ready for a shakedown on 10-Oct, with one weird thing. Changed the run in oil and filter for the good stuff. 8l came out, about 8.5 went in with filter so that looks all good. Changed the starter (again), this time for a brand new one, works good. Interesting that the Taaaarks one is shorter than factory but spins harder, I guess electronics have moved on a little in the last 30 years. Will be nice to have a bit of extra space under there. Put the timing cover back on, and noted where the cam gears were set as a record.  Will need to double check the timing but it is pretty close. Also put the coil pack cover and intake snorkel back on. Exhaust Inlet Changed the water out for coolant, bled up nicely. Removed the rear brake pads (well worn factory sumitomo ones!), gave the hardware a good clean and reassembled. I've put bendix XP on the back again because the price is excellent at $150 a set and they worked well on the V37. Front pads have plenty so no issue there
×
×
  • Create New...