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Fitting R32 GTR bonnet to GTS-T without new latch...

predator

By predator,
in Exterior & Interior Styling

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raz0r$harP.UK Grand Master

raz0r$harP.UK

Posted
Posted

Anyone know if it's the same situation for an R33?

My brother has the GTR bonnet on his 32 GTST and the weight difference between the two is phenomenal.. btw he has a grill cable tied in the space..

  • 2 years later...
theminuz Collaborator

theminuz

Posted
Posted
you dont need GTR headlights all the time, as some already have the mounting points on them. I would even say GTSt and GTR headluights are the same....

my gts-t type m - mspec projector type headlights are exactly the same as gtr headlights

Bumping up an old topic

Gona try this on the weekend anyone had any trouble with doing this??

i had a thread about the whole front end conversion that i did a few wks go. u an find it in my profile.

all the info u need is there, i would suggest going away from the way this topic has got around the latch situation. the way i did mine is the cleanest, tidiest and the easiest way of doing it.

find yourself a r32 gtr front "L" piece rad support (i pictured one in my thread) and this simply bolts in place of the gts-t item and your gts-t latch assembly will bolt onto that.

before you bolt the latch assembly on however make your way over to a simple vice and make a few bends in the "hand lever" so that it fits nicely with the grille and your in...

anymore questions have a look at my thread or pm me

ben.

  • 1 year later...
  • 1 year later...
Les000X Community Regular

Les000X

Posted
Posted

This is not nice work - it is structurally unsound and lacks rigidity.

It should not be followed.

Nice work man. She's looking great!

The lightweight GTR bonnet is the goods and no it does not make you a ricer, because who can tell the difference? :(

I wonder what the weight difference is that your now saving..

Les000X Community Regular

Les000X

Posted
Posted

Leaving the Centrebolt off or redrilling will weaken the latch assembly.

Wedging the Bracket on top of the bottom anchoring bolt cannot possibly be a solid fit.

This approach should not be followed.

Why? Because the Bracket is made from two pieces, 2 x spot welded at the factory. The Centrebolt and the two bolts securing the Latch give structural rigidity to the Bracket and take up the loads, along with the spot welds. These three bolts are stronger than the two spot welds.

This necessarily relies on the the bottom bolt to properly secure the Bracket.

______________________________

This is mainly for roy and blck32, but others may find it useful.

Here are pix.. hope u follow.

The bottom of the bracket on the bottom of the radiator support, I undid, and shoved up, whilst putting the bolt back in. So the bracket basically sitting on top of the bolt.The washer on the bolt wedges it into place and is a very solid fit.

latch01.jpg

Spacers/washers basically fit behind the top radiator support there.. allowing the bracket to be moved back about 1cm from the support. Those bolts were a bit big, but all I had sitting around that would suit at the moment.

latch02.jpg

I had to remove that centre bolt and just left it like that. Its not massively important to the rigidity.. but you may wish to redrill, and the refit bolt if you like.

latch03.jpg

finished result..

gtr_bonnet04.jpg

p.s. don't whinge at me for putting on a GTR bonnet! my gts-t one came from japan badly faded and with a dodgy chip in there, and dented.. to fix would require new GTS bonnet (~$300) + painting ($300) = $600.. I only paid about $100 more to get an aluminium bonnet, in my car colour, that should provide a bit better airflow to the engine/radiator at the same time. The fact that it happens to be a GTR one that is what it is..

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