Run-in periods.

[IOWNU]

THanks 4 the info guys! much appreciated.

I'm not rebuilding it myself, Jap Car Repairs are doin it, in Clayton Sth for $2g.

He just said go "normally" i.e no redlining, no boost, no excessive acceleration.

ANyways Mineral oils it is. I think i'll go to the Grampians, nice up and down driving there, pretty far away too.

Thanks again.

Ali.

[R33RWKW]

WTF - $2G is a very cheap quote. One of the cheapest quotes I have heard of.

Ali - Have you checked that Jap Car repairs have done alot of RB26 rebuilds?

I'm not slandering anyone, but even with stock parts it seems to good to be true. But if I'm wrong people - let me know

I just spent $6G on my RB25DET (oversize & ceramic coated Mahle Forged Pistons, shot peened/crack tested/linished GTR Rods, ARP VG30 bolts, ACL race bearings, O Ringed/honed/cleaned- Block, Crank checked & cleaned up, new valve springs, Greddy HD Timing Belt, headporting & polish & full balance & blueprint.

[IOWNU]

yeah it is cheap.....

The second best quote i got was for $2800, some1 in cambellfield.

I asked Nismo (they're actually called NISMA) in Sunshine, he wanted 4g.

I suppose reputation costs as well.

But its still better than buying an RB26 of a wrecker, and just swapping the engines over, as you don't know when it will go BANG, and the cheapest one i could find was for 4.5g with only 2 months warranty, where as with the rebuild im getting 12months.

The main mechanic there has rebuilt his own R32 and 200sx s14, plus heaps of others.

He's got the experience. I'm not sure whether he's built a RB26 though :S I assume he has.

[FATGTS-R]

What does the quote include?

i.e is it for disassembly and reassembly only? Parts and machining included? Engine in and out of car?

[IOWNU]

  FATGTS-R said:

What does the quote include?

i.e is it for disassembly and reassembly only? Parts and machining included? Engine in and out of car?

Quote includes all of the above.

Basically, I give him my GTR with the hammered engine, i get back a car with a working engine and 12 months warranty

He said that includes cost of parts, machining, labour (i.e assembly, removal etc.) and oils.

[wrxhoon]

$ 2000 wouldnt pay for the parts and machining ! Good luck if you get it done for that .

[Duncan]

  wrxhoon said:

$ 2000 wouldnt pay for the parts and machining ! Good luck if you get it done for that .

:werd: I've just done it myself and paid around $2000 for parts and machining.

Which of course does not include 10hrs+ labour to take the engine in and out or the actual assembly.

Anyway......the thing I would stress is change the oil and filter early in the piece and also the coolant.....having seen what the engine shop considered "clean" I think its worth trying to fluch out anything thats left in the oil and water galleries.

[wrxhoon]

  Duncan said:

:werd: I've just done it myself and paid around $2000 for parts and machining.

Which of course does not include 10hrs+ labour to take the engine in and out or the actual assembly.

Anyway......the thing I would stress is change the oil and filter early in the piece and also the coolant.....having seen what the engine shop considered "clean" I think its worth trying to fluch out anything thats left in the oil and water galleries.

That would depend on what you have replaced Duncan .

For instance if you use a new oil pump , water pump timing belt , tensioner and iddler pullies that would not be enough .

When i did mine about 18 months ago , i replaced all the above plus pistons , rings , bearings and rebuilt the turbos ( new cores ) at garrets ( $1350) .

Got the rebore , hone and crank reground and cil head done at mates rates ( all for $380 ).

It still cost me around the $4 K mark and my free labour of course .

If he gets it done for $2000 its dirt cheap .

[Duncan]

yep absolutely....the only new parts I put in were oil and water pumps and rings. Reused timing belt, idler and tensioner, rods, pistons, crank. Had the bottom end checked, prepped and balanced. Had a head job. But that was about it. Brilliant price on the prepping...I want mates like your mates lol

But labour is what makes that price mad....Engine in and out alone should be 1500+

[wrxhoon]

  Duncan said:

yep absolutely....the only new parts I put in were oil and water pumps and rings.  Reused timing belt, idler and tensioner, rods, pistons, crank.  Had the bottom end checked, prepped and balanced.  Had a head job.  But that was about it.  Brilliant price on the prepping...I want mates like your mates lol

But labour is what makes that price mad....Engine in and out alone should be 1500+

Next time you want to rebuild a donk let me know and i'll guide you to the right people .

Anyway his standard prices are not that bad , try $ 120 for bore and hone ( any 6 cil ) rb 26 cil head service for under $300 including seting the valve clearences ( rb 25 $220 ) and the crank bloke will grind your 6 cil crank for about $150 .

Most places would charge $6-7 k for a drive in drive out rb 26 rebuild with new pistons but using your old rods .

[IOWNU]

i'll get exact dollar info in regards to costs shortly....

[KNKY_SX]

my previous ride was a mazda rotary (the MOST temprmantal engine ever)...

after i rebuilt it, i ran it in on a mineral based oil (like royal purple) for 500 km's not revving it part 3500rpm... after that put semi-synth and did another 500km's not letting it rev over 5500rpm... then at 1000 km's changed oil and sparks and got to flog the guts out of it revving it to 9000rpm... yay...

moral of the story is: running in is done so that you can slowly bed your pistons/rotors/hampsters in properly at their full potential... so slowly build up to flogging the guts out of your ride (not that u should give it a flogging 24/7, that can make things turn sour).

that is all.....

ps. please feel free to correct me if so needed.