Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I purchased my car without the air box and with an unshielded apexi pod filter.

When I was fitting a trans cooler today I had a bit of a look around to try to work out how to shield the pod and get some cold air to it. It doesn’t look like I will be able to fit a stock air box back in there with the intercooler piping so my best option is probably to fit a stock snorkel to feed it cold air with a shield cut and shaped out of aluminium or a plastic sheet (ABS) but there is just so much crap in the way. I don’t think it will be able to get a good seel if I have to cut out holes in the shield to fit around all the crap and I’m not sure how I can relocate some of it to make it all a bit cleaner. The intercooler pipes, oil catch can, boost controller solenoids, carbon canister and coolant overflow are all cluttering it up.

Dose any one have any ideas on how I can make something effective without heaps of stuffing around?

1246RIMG0896.JPG

1246RIMG0898.JPG

if you relocate that boost controller you should be able to fabricate something up to slot between the IC pipework, and the filter then bring it back to the strut tower ..

this is all very nice but where is it going to get its cold air feed from ????

/me shrugs

Wooohoo, that is a test of ingenuity.

Personally I would;

1. move the catch can to the RHS, behind the battery.

2. move the boost control solenoid to behind the LHS strut tower

3. remove the standard boost control solenoid

4. make up a cardboard template that is inserterd vertically from the power steering reservoir to the radiator and seals agains the bonnet when it is closed. When you have design that you are hapopy with, transfer it onto a piece of 1.5 mm alumium sheet.

5. feed the ambient air from the LHS bumper vent, up though a hole in the inner guard near the intercooler pipework. If you use the entire LHS bumper vent to supply ambient air there should be sufficient airflow such that (when the car is moving forwards) there is positive air pressure within the contained area. Hence the filter will not injest any hot air, like it currently does in spades.

Hope that was of some help:cheers:

sorry to hi-jack, but I want some advice too :rolleyes:

I currently have apexi pods on the GTR and I too want to box them in and add a CAI. BUT, my passenger side 'brake duct' is currently full with my oil cooler (it has a nice little aluminium partition built inside the duct). where else can I get a CA feed from? is there anywhere that has off the shelf partitions for a GTR with apexi pods?

sorry to hi-jack, but I want some advice too :)

I currently have apexi pods on the GTR and I too want to box them in and add a CAI. BUT, my passenger side 'brake duct' is currently full with my oil cooler (it has a nice little aluminium partition built inside the duct). where else can I get a CA feed from? is there anywhere that has off the shelf partitions for a GTR with apexi pods?

What model GTR?:rolleyes:

Looks like a bit of a challenge. You could try doing what I've done and use a heat resistant foam that you can purchase from Clark Robber, or any other foam place. The one I'm using is 1.5cm thick, and can be bent and cut any way you like.

Just like SK said, first make up a cardboard template (doing it in three or four sections is easier then one large one), cut out the holes for the piping and the air flow meter and then just transfer it onto the foam. Then just take everything off and put it through the holes, and you should get a very good seal.

Although it may not be a substitute for a proper heat shield, this stuff works well and should cost you less then $30 plus an hour or so of your time.

Cheers

Daniel

Shield1.jpg

Shield2.jpg

I think I might try making something up with the heat shield foam first using then make one up out of aluminium once I am satisfied with the design in the foam and use the foam to line it for better insulation.

Once it get all the crap out of the way it will probably be a bit easier.

1. There is not space behind the battery, it is full of fuse box but I think I might be able squeeze it in front of the battery right up next to the radiator.

2. The Blitz boost control solenoid should not be to hard to move but I will probably have to muck around a bit extending and rerouting the hoses and wiring.

3. Is it safe to remove the stock boost control solenoid? Will it muck up the tuning of the Blitz system? Will it give error codes and confuse the ECU?

4. Getting ambient air from the LHS bumper vent could be a bit tricky as most of it is full of intercooler pipe. I have thought about using a stock snorkel with air guide to feed air in thought a cut out in the shield but it looks like the intercooler pipes will get in the way, I tried with the snorkel of my R33 GTS-t and the pipes came up to high. Unlike the Skyline there seems to be a bit of a gap above and below the headlight that is blocked off by a cheap looking rubber flap it am thinking that if I remove this flap I might be able to get enough air flowing in around the head light and from gaps around the holes the intercooler pipes run through.

I think with some movements as SK said, and trialling taking temp sensor readings from different applications of the thermal foam you'll find a good path to run your aluminium end-product. But as for getting more ambient air into the sectioned off pod...

Getting ambient air from the LHS bumper vent could be a bit tricky as most of it is full of intercooler pipe. I have thought about using a stock snorkel with air guide to feed air in thought a cut out in the shield but it looks like the intercooler pipes will get in the way, I tried with the snorkel of my R33 GTS-t and the pipes came up to high. Unlike the Skyline there seems to be a bit of a gap above and below the headlight that is blocked off by a cheap looking rubber flap it am thinking that if I remove this flap I might be able to get enough air flowing in around the head light and from gaps around the holes the intercooler pipes run through.

Here's another option... dunno if its allowed in QLD - I know some states dont allow cutting into the bonnet - but WA does so check QLD rules and throw in the Abflug Stagea specific vent that is meant exactly for Pod application...

0034010001.jpg0034030001.jpg0034050001.jpg

And at only 9,240yen (about $100) I'll be ordering mine soon :(http://www.ab-flug.co.jp/indexf.htm

The WA rules will let me do this to get direct ambient air to my intake (woohoo) - this is from the WA rules...

No structural cosmetic change is allowed other than spoilers and bonnet scoops.  

1. The fitting of front and rear spoilers either of fibreglass or sheet metal is acceptable, provided it is not likely to increase the risk of bodily injury to a person.  

2. An air scoop fitted to the bonnet of a vehicle must not intrude into the line of sight. An air scoop must not have an unobstructed rearward facing opening (an incident such as the bursting of a radiator hose could result in the windscreen becoming completely obscured). The maximum air scoop projection should not exceed 60 mm

Oh and check all the nice PentRoof parts for Stageas on that site too... PentRoof WGNC34 Bilstein coilovers!!! :drool: Only $3650 :)

7934190001.jpg

:P

San Ni (32) ;)

R32GTR's have large square hole under the LHS headlight. Feed the cold air from in front of the LHS of the radiator though that hole and into the shielded area around the POD.:(

  • 3 weeks later...

I have almost got it all sorted out now.

I moved the catch can to the other side just in front of the battery and the boost controller behind the strut tower and ABS module.

RIMG0992.JPG

I also removed the rubber crap that blocks the air flow around and under the headlight

RIMG0985.JPG

RIMG1015.JPG

Then I made up a shield out of heat shield foam from Clark Rubber after making a very crude cardboard template. It is still not quite right I cut a bit too much out in some spots so I am going to use it to make a more accurately fitting one.

RIMG1020.JPG

RIMG1019.JPG

I am planning to use the foam by it's self but with a bit of aluminum angle to reinforce it. Once I make version two it will give a very good air tight seal.

The only thing I'm a bit unsure about is if I should cut a bit of foam to seal against the bonnet or make a lid for it.

RIMG1014.JPG

RIMG1013.JPG

RIMG1012.JPG

All done now I ended up making 4 iterations of the foam shield before getting it spot on, it didn't help that the dog ate one. I will take some pics of the finished product and post them up tomorrow. There is absolutely no gaps around the foam it gives a really good seal the only place hot air can get in is the inch gap over the top of the bit of angle. I’m not sure if I will make up a lid for it or just trim a bit of soft foam to stick along the top of the angle to seal against the bonnet.

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...