Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Semi slicks dont grip in the wet due to tread block design (well they do, but not as good as normal "high performance" road tyres). A true semi slick (R compound) will be dead on you within 5000kms as well.

Besides those two points, check out the suspension and handling section, lots of threads in there on tyres :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/72190-tyre-choice/#findComment-1329062
Share on other sites

I post here because its better to get opioon off ppl who i know.  The Falken Azenis ST115s i am pretty sure arent made in 265's

Well thanks i think i will ask around for fedrals see what happens.

They 'were' made in that, cause i have them in 265/35r18. Not sure whether they are any more, however my mother checked prices for me one day, and somewhere assured her they could get them, at $490 a corner though :rolleyes:

Going to try out Firenza this time around, Ash who some of you know has said good things about them

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/72190-tyre-choice/#findComment-1330717
Share on other sites

Highly suggest Falken Azenis ST115s. Plenty thumbs up.

Yeah, theyre not a bad tyre, have a couple of dramas with them tho, when i did a motorkhana on them, the car was front wheel sliding at times, i thought that shouldnt happen on 235's,

other then that, they are a good tyre, i have no trouble smoking them, but when you want them to grip, they do, except for some acquaplaning in the wet (255's but so its understandable)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/72190-tyre-choice/#findComment-1335730
Share on other sites

I had Nexen N2000's on the back of mine for a while, they're not a tyre that I'd reccomend to anyone that likes grip

They'd be awesome for drifting though :(

I've got Vredestein Sportrac 2 tyres on the front of mine, brilliant tyres

they stick like shit to a blanket, even in the wet (2 huge ass water channels might have something to do with that)

http://www.vredestein.com/autobanden/Main....&BandTypeID=471

And currently I have Bridgestone Turanza ER30's on the back, which were good when they were new.....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/72190-tyre-choice/#findComment-1336581
Share on other sites

I'll second the vredenstein sportrac's. I have them on the front of my car and no matter how hard I throw the car into a corner, the front will not slide. Also under really heavy brakeing they have great grip so won't activate ABS unless you are literally standing on the brakes.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/72190-tyre-choice/#findComment-1336606
Share on other sites

Shaun, there is one high performance tyre that I would recommend in that size Falken FK451's, they're not to pricey but they are as good as youll get for street performance...

I got Frink 2 of them in 265 40 R17 for about 90 cheaper per tyre than retail, I know I guy.

Let me know if you want me to get you a price.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/72190-tyre-choice/#findComment-1340038
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
    • I haven’t yet cut the chassis, maybe I switch to a reverse flow. I’ve got the Intercooler mounted as I already had it but not cut yet. Might have to speak to an engineer 
×
×
  • Create New...