Jump to content
SAU Community

SD - the right stuff

grandmasterb
 Share

Recommended Posts

grandmasterb Grand Master

grandmasterb

Posted
Posted

Just wondering what everyone uses to SD the doors and boot? I am thinking about doing it to the skyline but still not a 100% sure yet as there are a few doubts in my mind. The gains of doing it are without a doubt worthe it but im thinking along the lines of if i ever have to get access to the central locking or anything behind the SD material it would just be a pain in the perverbrial to take it off again...

As there is limited selection down here in Tassie i will no doubt have to look at getting SD material else where (adds more expensive for shipping) but just wondering what's every1 used and general feedback for the product?

:P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/72398-sd-the-right-stuff/
Share on other sites
someonestolecc Grand Master

someonestolecc

Posted
Posted

I ordered mine from fhrx and postage isn't as expensive as you'd think.

I used a combination of stinger roadkill and dynamat pro (or something like that).

Pics of install available on request.. actually I think it still might be available online PM me for URL.

grandmasterb Grand Master

grandmasterb

Posted
  • Author
Posted
I ordered mine from fhrx and postage isn't as expensive as you'd think.

I used a combination of stinger roadkill and dynamat pro (or something like that).

Pics of install available on request.. actually I think it still might be available online PM me for URL.

I'll see what i can find out

Fhrx Rising Star

Fhrx

Posted
Posted

Guys, when you apply the sound deadening and you need to access the internals of the door, you simply peel it back or take it right off and then simply stick it back on.

On the subject of getting the products to SAU members, we can send around Australia no problems.

So photos of deadening are here. :)

grandmasterb Grand Master

grandmasterb

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Guys, when you apply the sound deadening and you need to access the internals of the door, you simply peel it back or take it right off and then simply stick it back on.

On the subject of getting the products to SAU members, we can send around Australia no problems.

So photos of deadening are here. :)

You make is sound so simply :cheers:

someonestolecc Grand Master

someonestolecc

Posted
Posted

Sorry GrandB - PM me your email address and I'll send em out again. I think I may have deleted it from my web host before you got to it.

It's been such a pain since my web server went down (damn brother not paying bills heh heh) I can't get pics to anyone without downsizing them etc which is a pain... I swear email needs to die.

grandmasterb Grand Master

grandmasterb

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Sorry GrandB - PM me your email address and I'll send em out again. I think I may have deleted it from my web host before you got to it.

It's been such a pain since my web server went down (damn brother not paying bills heh  heh) I can't get pics to anyone without downsizing them etc which is a pain... I swear email needs to die.

PM sent :)

grandmasterb Grand Master

grandmasterb

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Well we sit it in the sun and then use a heat gun but this is just another reason why we often lean towards G-Spot. It doesn't need any heat. :P

Yeah i hear what ya saying but this is a budget SD job and the Stinger was the only stuff (or Jaycar) i could get my hands on locally so i didn't have to pay to get it from the mainland and pay shipping. I got two complete rolls (that came in the box) and another one that has about half left on it for the 2 front doors. I dont mind that its not going to be a competition winning system as its not designed for that, and the way i figure it, having something on there is better than nothing. Maybe next time i will use G-Spot or Dynamate when i have more money to spend on the stereo :headspin:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • EndZee
      Fuel Pump Control Module & Dropping Resistor

      By EndZee · Posted

      Guys since i bought r33 gts25t coupe 1994 automatic a/t(manual swap 350z gearbox)  all i got is problems, always problems. Lets start with that when i turn key into ignition(ON) fuel pump doesnt always works. Sometimes i have to turn key twice Off/on/off/on until it primes. Its new, dw300 - 340lph. My gearbox broke so i did gearbox swap, install different intake manifold, injectors and i take pipes. Car was sitting in garage for more than half a year. I did assembly all not that long ago and when i turn ignition cant hear prime. All of sudden it stopped working. Theres many videos on YouTube how to make relay mod on r33 straight from battery so i did and it doesnt work! 😰 30 - battery positive  87 - positive from fuel pump to relay 85, 86 - one of two wires from original fuel pump wires(light blue, grey) and it didn’t work. so I check on ignition and took original BLUE relays wires from trunk, next to fuses. (I believe it’s IGN+ and ECU pin 18. it didn’t work…  tried connecting (IGN+ from og relay) and (ECU 104 from 1of4 FPCM wires) to my new relay 85/86 and it didn’t work.  I unplug FPCM. Didn’t work. im thinking what’s wrong   fuel pump is working, if I leave IGN+ on 85 and 86 straight to ground it works but it’s just nonstop. Since it getting constant 12v after key in ON. light blue wire gives me 6-8v.  so how this should be connected? What causing ECU not giving — on pin? Or I did sth wrong and that’s why it doesn’t work? I need negative signal on ECU that control fuel pump. What this should be?
    • Duncan
      M35 Brake caliper replacement

      By Duncan · Posted

      You can use your VIN to look up the factory part number somewhere like amayama, and then look to order new if necessary. https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/nissan Depending on price you might want to rebuild instead. @GTSBoy I had an interesting insight into US market parts when the Titan rear calipers were sticking. New calipers were dirt cheap, about 20% more than a rebuild kit....they are just considered throw away maintenance items
    • Duncan
      Most women will agree that parking is the most taxing part of driving

      By Duncan · Posted

      Funny, but really not funny. Thank god (most) f the world has moved on since then
    • Duncan
      Jacks that fit under GTR lips that can reach the subframe?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Lots of votes for driving onto a plank first; that is the quickest way I've found, 25mm is enough for my case but that will vary by car It also depends where you are going for. On the 32 I can get to the rear diff with my floor jack if I do that end first, and get it up on stands. Then I lift the front from either front tow hook as high as needed, also onto stands. Sometimes I need a small lift on the other tow hook to get it level enough If I do the front first I can't get to the rear diff because of the angle of the car Other options are getting to the front mount of the rear subframe from in front of the wheel (if only lifting one side, or just do both which is a bit of a pain compared to one lift from the diff), or also the gearbox cross member mount on the driver's side if you are  just trying to lift the driver's side. I This is the jack I use; it says 75mm clearance but of course that is only on the lower section so if you have to reach too far in like the diff you still get stuck. https://www.snapon-bluepoint.com.sg/category/Floor-Jacks/product/Floor-Jack,-2-Ton-Low-Profile
    • Duncan
      NC MX5

      By Duncan · Posted

      On the bright side, the weather will turn much nicer for working outside shortly....sounds like you might need to start on a neighbour's garden next
×
×
  • Create New...