Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Speaking of rust... I had a little bit of rust on the rear quarter panels on my R32 GTR.  But why do aluminium panels rust?  I thought aluminium was a non-rusting metal???

they rust because they are not aluminium mate. rear quarters on the GTR are steel. as are the doors, as is the roof. only alu panels are FRONT guards and bonnet.

  • Replies 95
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Thanks gordon, I'm trying to look at this at every angle... but is there anyway to be sure that your car is rust free referring to daler32's example about the rust underneath the skirting?  

Now Im starting to think that it might be better to spend a little bit more money for a cleaner version, and then save up more money after it's landed to get it onto the road..

save up some money mate. if you can only afford just $7K then I don't reckon it's a good idea to buy a turbo skyline at all. what happens if the clutch is worn and needs replacing? that's close to $1500. what if all the rotors are stuffed? there's $800. what if both the clutch and brakes are stuffed? see what I mean.

if you are set on it then take my advice don't but the rusty car. the reason you can see the rust in those pics of the white car is that the rust is INSIDE the rear guard. water splashes up in there when driving and the inner guard is now rusting away. by the time the rust spread far enough that it's affecting the paint the guard will be so far gone you will need to CUT off the quarter (quarters are welded on, not bolted) and find a wreck with a good quarter, cut it off, then try and weld it to your car. not nice and very costly. rust is like a cancer. if there is a tiny bit and you stop it straight away there is no problem, but imagine how long the rust has been spreading on that car... I'd say prognosis = negative...

thanks guys.. I'll give this one a miss then I think. All up I have a bit under 10k... The 7000 figure was assuming that I could get it on the road asap... (If I'm lucky).. I think that I should spend a litte more say.. 8k or so on something a little more clean like this: http://www.j-spec.com.au/list/index.php?ID=2606 (few scartches and dents is better than rust..) And then save up more money to get it on the road... mmmgtir: I see what you mean... but do you think that buying a local one later on will be (more expensive obviously, and) really thrashed?.. How much do you guys think a clean coupe gtst will cost locally?

you'll find good deals in aus man ppl sell R32 Gtst for 12g i've seen it... or just buy a 4door they go froun 11-13g... it would be phat... I tell you know i just imported my 4 door 32 and in the future i would never do it again,. unless i was getting something super coool... might as well look for one in aus... you get to look at it yourself and inspect it, leaving you with less dissapointments when you receive it.

thanks guys.. I'll give this one a miss then I think.  All up I have a bit under 10k... The 7000 figure was assuming that I could get it on the road asap... (If I'm lucky).. I think that I should spend a litte more say.. 8k or so on something a little more clean like this: http://www.j-spec.com.au/list/index.php?ID=2606 (few scartches and dents is better than rust..) And then save up more money to get it on the road...  mmmgtir: I see what you mean... but do you think that buying a local one later on will be (more expensive obviously, and) really thrashed?.. How much do you guys think a clean coupe gtst will cost locally?

mate if you really are on a tight budget then definately buying here has some advantages. you can check the car out thoroughly and then if you think it's sweet you can get an NRMA check (around $150) they check cars all day every day and will instantly spot things you didn't think to check. if it comes out ok then you can do a compression and leakdown test, and then buy the car KNOWING there will be no unexpected surprises. importing is much more of a gamble.

hi there. It is not impossible to find a nice no rust skyline gtst for under 10k (me and brother both have gtst's with alot of change from 9k)

i noticed you are in melbourne, why not give www.yahoomotorsport.com a go?

all the best and good luck.

J_R32, do you mean 9k Landed or including on road costs? yahoomotorsport.com dosn't have any manual 32's at the moment.. I've never heard of them before, are they very reliable? has anyone else been through them? I know you shouldn't judge a book by it's cover but their site looks tacky which dosn't make me feel that confident...

In regards to buying locally... where do I look? I check the papers all the time and rarely see r32's, carsales etc will have one or two which are usually out of my price range bar a nice looking one for 11,500... but what do you think will happen to the price of local cars after the 15yr rule ends? I have a feeling it will go up.....

Also Gordon, because everymonth a new set of cars are eligble to be imported under the 15yr rule, wouldn't there still be plenty of good 32's out there?

15 year rule is about to finish anyday..

its tough looking locally, especially for an R32 (thats why I imported).. but already i've spotted a few decent 89 skylines for $12k or so, as there are more and more on the roads everyday. Prices will come down with the extra supply I think, and a few good ones at good prices will come up.

Gordon, where did you spot the 89skylines for $12k if you don't mind me asking? Also.. this is what I thought intially with my limited economic knowledge: that while there is a rise in supply at the moment, this is going to practically be cut off dead (as I doubt a 32gtst is really worth going through SEVS). Due to the limited supply and the constant rise in demand this would cause a rise in price?... But I'm probably wrong.

Just talked to J-spec again, the guy I talked to said that there is a good chance that I can find something mechanically sound (through auctions and dealers) within in a range of 7-8k landed. I'm going to sign up with j-spec and get them to start looking through auctions and what not.. Not say that I'm going to the importing road yet, but if there's something that's good and not a rust bucket (like what I originally was looking at) then I might well take it... if nothing shows up that I feel confident about or isn't clean then j-spec will refund my money when the 15yr rule ends and I'll continue saving and buy a local... thats the plan at the moment anyway....

mate if you really are on a tight budget then definately buying here has some advantages. you can check the car out thoroughly and then if you think it's sweet you can get an NRMA check (around $150) they check cars all day every day and will instantly spot things you didn't think to check. if it comes out ok then you can do a compression and leakdown test, and then buy the car KNOWING there will be no unexpected surprises. importing is much more of a gamble.

When I sold my 180SX the potential buyer ordered an RACV inspection. They wrote it up as a Nissan 200SX and proceeded to detail a tirade of nonsense that highlighted the mechanics lack of experience.

BAD POINTS

"Engine surges under load"

"Ummm yes that's what 12psi on an SR20 does."

"My hilux has a turbo and it doesn't do that!"

*groan*

Hopefully the guys are better these days ;) The report went on about the non-standard seats (had engineers cert) and the non-functioning wipers (that worked). I think I have the report somewhere. It's great for a laugh.

Sorry about OT.

Mark

when i said under 9k i meant under 9 k driveaway, with compliance and rego paid for.

yahoomotorsports.com i just noticed have changed their website format, they have quite alot of gtsts manual, in sedan and coupe. Your best it to ring the guy up.

if you want to know more about them do a search on these forums, there was a thread on them b4.

ohh i would do some research on j-spec as well....that is all i will say about them.

when i said under 9k i meant under 9 k driveaway' date=' with compliance and rego paid for.

AHm did it come with a motor? :cheers: he he just jokes.

This is an extreme though dude. I paid bout 11.5 on road with everything. top shelf alarm, 4 new tyres (17s), new brake pads/front rotors and compliance.

took me 3 months to find it though so best not to rush into it.

Personally, rust is something best left alone, the car too. It is very costly to fix and a downright kick in the arse when you find more and more after wanking around importing a car.

when i said under 9k i meant under 9 k driveaway, with compliance and rego paid for.

.

AHm did it come with a motor? he he just jokes.

This is an extreme though dude. I paid bout 11.5 on road with everything. top shelf alarm, 4 new tyres (17s), new brake pads/front rotors and compliance.

took me 3 months to find it though so best not to rush into it.

Personally, rust is something best left alone, the car too. It is very costly to fix and a downright kick in the arse when you find more and more after wanking around importing a car.

i'd also like to point out that once the 15 year rule has ended, the local prices will reflect this and shoot back up. ;)

But it cant hurt to go shopping for 89 models imported under the 15 year rule locally and make an offer. At least you know roughly how much it cost them to get it landed..

I really like the 12k prices, and I would be very happy to pay that here in Aus, but by the time that I can save up an extra 2k (I have 10k now), the 15yr rule will be long gone and I'm really worried that prices will shoot up...

J-spec emailed me back about the oringal car in this thread, It has been sold during Golden week apparently, I don't know how as I thought all businesses where closed but it dosn't matter cause I don't want anything to do with rust anymore.

the thing with the list is you can't get too excited by any on there, because most of them have already been sold by the time you enquire, its mainly just a marketing ploy to suck you in and get them to look for another similar car for you..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
    • You don't have an R34 service manual for the body do you? Have found plenty for the engine and drivetrain but nothing else
×
×
  • Create New...