Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Speaking of rust... I had a little bit of rust on the rear quarter panels on my R32 GTR.  But why do aluminium panels rust?  I thought aluminium was a non-rusting metal???

they rust because they are not aluminium mate. rear quarters on the GTR are steel. as are the doors, as is the roof. only alu panels are FRONT guards and bonnet.

  • Replies 95
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Thanks gordon, I'm trying to look at this at every angle... but is there anyway to be sure that your car is rust free referring to daler32's example about the rust underneath the skirting?  

Now Im starting to think that it might be better to spend a little bit more money for a cleaner version, and then save up more money after it's landed to get it onto the road..

save up some money mate. if you can only afford just $7K then I don't reckon it's a good idea to buy a turbo skyline at all. what happens if the clutch is worn and needs replacing? that's close to $1500. what if all the rotors are stuffed? there's $800. what if both the clutch and brakes are stuffed? see what I mean.

if you are set on it then take my advice don't but the rusty car. the reason you can see the rust in those pics of the white car is that the rust is INSIDE the rear guard. water splashes up in there when driving and the inner guard is now rusting away. by the time the rust spread far enough that it's affecting the paint the guard will be so far gone you will need to CUT off the quarter (quarters are welded on, not bolted) and find a wreck with a good quarter, cut it off, then try and weld it to your car. not nice and very costly. rust is like a cancer. if there is a tiny bit and you stop it straight away there is no problem, but imagine how long the rust has been spreading on that car... I'd say prognosis = negative...

thanks guys.. I'll give this one a miss then I think. All up I have a bit under 10k... The 7000 figure was assuming that I could get it on the road asap... (If I'm lucky).. I think that I should spend a litte more say.. 8k or so on something a little more clean like this: http://www.j-spec.com.au/list/index.php?ID=2606 (few scartches and dents is better than rust..) And then save up more money to get it on the road... mmmgtir: I see what you mean... but do you think that buying a local one later on will be (more expensive obviously, and) really thrashed?.. How much do you guys think a clean coupe gtst will cost locally?

you'll find good deals in aus man ppl sell R32 Gtst for 12g i've seen it... or just buy a 4door they go froun 11-13g... it would be phat... I tell you know i just imported my 4 door 32 and in the future i would never do it again,. unless i was getting something super coool... might as well look for one in aus... you get to look at it yourself and inspect it, leaving you with less dissapointments when you receive it.

thanks guys.. I'll give this one a miss then I think.  All up I have a bit under 10k... The 7000 figure was assuming that I could get it on the road asap... (If I'm lucky).. I think that I should spend a litte more say.. 8k or so on something a little more clean like this: http://www.j-spec.com.au/list/index.php?ID=2606 (few scartches and dents is better than rust..) And then save up more money to get it on the road...  mmmgtir: I see what you mean... but do you think that buying a local one later on will be (more expensive obviously, and) really thrashed?.. How much do you guys think a clean coupe gtst will cost locally?

mate if you really are on a tight budget then definately buying here has some advantages. you can check the car out thoroughly and then if you think it's sweet you can get an NRMA check (around $150) they check cars all day every day and will instantly spot things you didn't think to check. if it comes out ok then you can do a compression and leakdown test, and then buy the car KNOWING there will be no unexpected surprises. importing is much more of a gamble.

hi there. It is not impossible to find a nice no rust skyline gtst for under 10k (me and brother both have gtst's with alot of change from 9k)

i noticed you are in melbourne, why not give www.yahoomotorsport.com a go?

all the best and good luck.

J_R32, do you mean 9k Landed or including on road costs? yahoomotorsport.com dosn't have any manual 32's at the moment.. I've never heard of them before, are they very reliable? has anyone else been through them? I know you shouldn't judge a book by it's cover but their site looks tacky which dosn't make me feel that confident...

In regards to buying locally... where do I look? I check the papers all the time and rarely see r32's, carsales etc will have one or two which are usually out of my price range bar a nice looking one for 11,500... but what do you think will happen to the price of local cars after the 15yr rule ends? I have a feeling it will go up.....

Also Gordon, because everymonth a new set of cars are eligble to be imported under the 15yr rule, wouldn't there still be plenty of good 32's out there?

15 year rule is about to finish anyday..

its tough looking locally, especially for an R32 (thats why I imported).. but already i've spotted a few decent 89 skylines for $12k or so, as there are more and more on the roads everyday. Prices will come down with the extra supply I think, and a few good ones at good prices will come up.

Gordon, where did you spot the 89skylines for $12k if you don't mind me asking? Also.. this is what I thought intially with my limited economic knowledge: that while there is a rise in supply at the moment, this is going to practically be cut off dead (as I doubt a 32gtst is really worth going through SEVS). Due to the limited supply and the constant rise in demand this would cause a rise in price?... But I'm probably wrong.

Just talked to J-spec again, the guy I talked to said that there is a good chance that I can find something mechanically sound (through auctions and dealers) within in a range of 7-8k landed. I'm going to sign up with j-spec and get them to start looking through auctions and what not.. Not say that I'm going to the importing road yet, but if there's something that's good and not a rust bucket (like what I originally was looking at) then I might well take it... if nothing shows up that I feel confident about or isn't clean then j-spec will refund my money when the 15yr rule ends and I'll continue saving and buy a local... thats the plan at the moment anyway....

mate if you really are on a tight budget then definately buying here has some advantages. you can check the car out thoroughly and then if you think it's sweet you can get an NRMA check (around $150) they check cars all day every day and will instantly spot things you didn't think to check. if it comes out ok then you can do a compression and leakdown test, and then buy the car KNOWING there will be no unexpected surprises. importing is much more of a gamble.

When I sold my 180SX the potential buyer ordered an RACV inspection. They wrote it up as a Nissan 200SX and proceeded to detail a tirade of nonsense that highlighted the mechanics lack of experience.

BAD POINTS

"Engine surges under load"

"Ummm yes that's what 12psi on an SR20 does."

"My hilux has a turbo and it doesn't do that!"

*groan*

Hopefully the guys are better these days ;) The report went on about the non-standard seats (had engineers cert) and the non-functioning wipers (that worked). I think I have the report somewhere. It's great for a laugh.

Sorry about OT.

Mark

when i said under 9k i meant under 9 k driveaway, with compliance and rego paid for.

yahoomotorsports.com i just noticed have changed their website format, they have quite alot of gtsts manual, in sedan and coupe. Your best it to ring the guy up.

if you want to know more about them do a search on these forums, there was a thread on them b4.

ohh i would do some research on j-spec as well....that is all i will say about them.

when i said under 9k i meant under 9 k driveaway' date=' with compliance and rego paid for.

AHm did it come with a motor? :cheers: he he just jokes.

This is an extreme though dude. I paid bout 11.5 on road with everything. top shelf alarm, 4 new tyres (17s), new brake pads/front rotors and compliance.

took me 3 months to find it though so best not to rush into it.

Personally, rust is something best left alone, the car too. It is very costly to fix and a downright kick in the arse when you find more and more after wanking around importing a car.

when i said under 9k i meant under 9 k driveaway, with compliance and rego paid for.

.

AHm did it come with a motor? he he just jokes.

This is an extreme though dude. I paid bout 11.5 on road with everything. top shelf alarm, 4 new tyres (17s), new brake pads/front rotors and compliance.

took me 3 months to find it though so best not to rush into it.

Personally, rust is something best left alone, the car too. It is very costly to fix and a downright kick in the arse when you find more and more after wanking around importing a car.

i'd also like to point out that once the 15 year rule has ended, the local prices will reflect this and shoot back up. ;)

But it cant hurt to go shopping for 89 models imported under the 15 year rule locally and make an offer. At least you know roughly how much it cost them to get it landed..

I really like the 12k prices, and I would be very happy to pay that here in Aus, but by the time that I can save up an extra 2k (I have 10k now), the 15yr rule will be long gone and I'm really worried that prices will shoot up...

J-spec emailed me back about the oringal car in this thread, It has been sold during Golden week apparently, I don't know how as I thought all businesses where closed but it dosn't matter cause I don't want anything to do with rust anymore.

the thing with the list is you can't get too excited by any on there, because most of them have already been sold by the time you enquire, its mainly just a marketing ploy to suck you in and get them to look for another similar car for you..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
    • I haven’t yet cut the chassis, maybe I switch to a reverse flow. I’ve got the Intercooler mounted as I already had it but not cut yet. Might have to speak to an engineer 
    • Yes that’s another issue, I always have a front mount, plus will be turbo plus intake will big hasstle. I’ve been told if it looks stock they’re fine with it by a couple others who have done it ahahaha.    I know @Kinkstaah said the stock gtt airbox is limiting but I might just have to do that to avoid a defect so it atleast looks legit. Or an enclosed pod so it’s hidden away and feed air from the snorkel and below Intercooler holes like kinstaah mentioned. Hmm what to do 
×
×
  • Create New...