Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Steering wheel vibration

Hi guys, I wonder if any of you had the same problem as what I am experiencing at the moment?

My steering wheel vibrates as soon as it hits 100km/h.

I have done wheel balance and wheel alignment.

My front brake pads are new.

I have noticed that depending on the road surface Freeway I can drive up to a 120km/h and nothing will take affect. Also I have noticed this happens when I accelerate suddenly.

But when I do it progressively the vibrations are not there or are very small.

Mainly the sped is around 100 when it happens.

Is there anything in particular that I am missing that I haven’t thought of? Wy is his happening?

Thanks

al

;)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/72730-steering-wheel-vibration/
Share on other sites

Wierd - did they test drive the car? did you tell them about this vibration? they'd probably be better to ask.

Yes,

They just tell me their people know what they are doing.

Even the other place didn't charge me full price as the wheels were balanced 110%

They have no idea about why this is......

help

I had the same probs you have.The car came with crap 17 inch chromes on and they made steering really wobbly.When I got new tyres put on and went to pick them up the guy marked 2 of the rims front and the other 2 rear.2 of them had buckles so they went on the rear and it was alot nicer to drive.Before it was bullshit at speeds around 100+kph

Now I have Volks on and they are a dream!!200+kph on a track with no wobbles.

So maybe you have slight buckled rim/rims on the front maybe?

I had the same problem with mine, 4 wheel balances and each time it came back! I finally found out that the tyres were really old ( the numbers are on the tyre and he could figure what they mean) and was told that they had probably sat for a long time in the same position thus making them out of shape.

The Car is R33 GTST

It will be one or more of the usual problems;

1. Out of balance tyres (are they balanced inner and outer? Or just one set of weights?)

2. Out of round tyres (easy to check on the balancer)

3. Out of centre wheels (do they lock securely over the hub centre?)

4. Out of round wheels (how is the run out on the inner and outer rims?)

5. Out of balance brake rotors (unusual, but does happen)

6. Worn wheel bearings (jack it up and check the movement, in and out top and bottom)

7. Worn radius rod bushes (you can see it, the rubber is torn and fluid leaking)

After that it gets obscure, eg; worn shocks can cause vibration after hitting a bump.

:rofl:

  • 2 weeks later...

Just put the new rotors in and the vibration is almost gone.

I Should have just machined my front rotors but few places told me they were under size.

That turned out to be crap as when I took them off they were 29mm.

So in conclusion I spent $430 on front rotors and I didn't have to. But now the problem is gone.

But for how loong as the rotors bed in to the pads ,we'll see!

What is lower steering?

It will be one or more of the usual problems;

1. Out of balance tyres (are they balanced inner and outer?  Or just one set of weights?)

2. Out of round tyres (easy to check on the balancer)

3. Out of centre wheels (do they lock securely over the hub centre?)

4. Out of round wheels (how is the run out on the inner and outer rims?)

5. Out of balance brake rotors (unusual, but does happen)

6. Worn wheel bearings (jack it up and check the movement, in and out top and bottom)

7. Worn radius rod bushes (you can see it, the rubber is torn and fluid leaking)

After that it gets obscure, eg; worn shocks can cause vibration after hitting a bump.

:D

Checked all of the above. Everything is positive.

Just changed new DBA rotors and machined my rears and the problem is almost gone. Still a bit of vibration evident. Only done 20km , will see what happens in the near future....

Al

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...