Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Steering wheel vibration

Hi guys, I wonder if any of you had the same problem as what I am experiencing at the moment?

My steering wheel vibrates as soon as it hits 100km/h.

I have done wheel balance and wheel alignment.

My front brake pads are new.

I have noticed that depending on the road surface Freeway I can drive up to a 120km/h and nothing will take affect. Also I have noticed this happens when I accelerate suddenly.

But when I do it progressively the vibrations are not there or are very small.

Mainly the sped is around 100 when it happens.

Is there anything in particular that I am missing that I haven’t thought of? Wy is his happening?

Thanks

al

;)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/72730-steering-wheel-vibration/
Share on other sites

Wierd - did they test drive the car? did you tell them about this vibration? they'd probably be better to ask.

Yes,

They just tell me their people know what they are doing.

Even the other place didn't charge me full price as the wheels were balanced 110%

They have no idea about why this is......

help

I had the same probs you have.The car came with crap 17 inch chromes on and they made steering really wobbly.When I got new tyres put on and went to pick them up the guy marked 2 of the rims front and the other 2 rear.2 of them had buckles so they went on the rear and it was alot nicer to drive.Before it was bullshit at speeds around 100+kph

Now I have Volks on and they are a dream!!200+kph on a track with no wobbles.

So maybe you have slight buckled rim/rims on the front maybe?

I had the same problem with mine, 4 wheel balances and each time it came back! I finally found out that the tyres were really old ( the numbers are on the tyre and he could figure what they mean) and was told that they had probably sat for a long time in the same position thus making them out of shape.

The Car is R33 GTST

It will be one or more of the usual problems;

1. Out of balance tyres (are they balanced inner and outer? Or just one set of weights?)

2. Out of round tyres (easy to check on the balancer)

3. Out of centre wheels (do they lock securely over the hub centre?)

4. Out of round wheels (how is the run out on the inner and outer rims?)

5. Out of balance brake rotors (unusual, but does happen)

6. Worn wheel bearings (jack it up and check the movement, in and out top and bottom)

7. Worn radius rod bushes (you can see it, the rubber is torn and fluid leaking)

After that it gets obscure, eg; worn shocks can cause vibration after hitting a bump.

:rofl:

  • 2 weeks later...

Just put the new rotors in and the vibration is almost gone.

I Should have just machined my front rotors but few places told me they were under size.

That turned out to be crap as when I took them off they were 29mm.

So in conclusion I spent $430 on front rotors and I didn't have to. But now the problem is gone.

But for how loong as the rotors bed in to the pads ,we'll see!

What is lower steering?

It will be one or more of the usual problems;

1. Out of balance tyres (are they balanced inner and outer?  Or just one set of weights?)

2. Out of round tyres (easy to check on the balancer)

3. Out of centre wheels (do they lock securely over the hub centre?)

4. Out of round wheels (how is the run out on the inner and outer rims?)

5. Out of balance brake rotors (unusual, but does happen)

6. Worn wheel bearings (jack it up and check the movement, in and out top and bottom)

7. Worn radius rod bushes (you can see it, the rubber is torn and fluid leaking)

After that it gets obscure, eg; worn shocks can cause vibration after hitting a bump.

:D

Checked all of the above. Everything is positive.

Just changed new DBA rotors and machined my rears and the problem is almost gone. Still a bit of vibration evident. Only done 20km , will see what happens in the near future....

Al

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There's restrictor pills in the stock boost control hoses. That's how they set the amount that was bled off and hence the "high" boost setting. The usual mod in the day was to remove it and send the "high" boost setting up to about 14 psi.
    • Thanks Duncan, that's the best info I've read. Furthermore after learning about the PCM programming side controlling the factory boost solenoid, the purpose of the solenoid is to "bleed" boost when pin 25 is earthed, thus allowing spring pressure in the wastegate actuator to overcome diaphragm boost pressure, thus closing or reducing the position of the wastegate flap creating more boost as the turbo is able to spin faster. It's pretty cool to see a designated Pill to do exactly this, would have liked to have seen it with a tiny filter over the end for those moments in vacuum.  The constant bleed pill has now been removed completely from the system and solenoid boost control has been restored once again.   Case closed 😂
    • The wideband reading is meaningless if it's not running. Why are you using shitty old sidefeeds on any engine, let alone a Neo? What manifold and fuel rail are you using to achieve that? Beyond that, can't help you with AEM stuff as I've never been their ECU/CAS combo.
    • Manual boost controllers (where a little of the boost was bled off) were quite common back in the day, because they were cheap and easy. Generally they had a manual adjustment screw rather than being fixed like yours. Down side is they always bleed boost, not just when you want them to so an electronic boost controller that uses a solenoid will have less lag.
    • Hello , im new here and i have A31 home build  RB25det neo stock eng / turbo  aem ems 2 blue connector  aem 3.5 map aem cas disk aem wideband connected to ecu  355 lph pump 550 nismo yellow injectors side feed aftermarket regulator  and won’t start with base aem tuner basic tune eventually flipped cas 180 degree so it triggers on correct stroke not in exhaust cycle  Now it won’t start Wideband reads 10 and 11 at lowest fuel setting  and will share calibrations soon for aem tuner i think something is wrong in aem tuner    please if you have any information, am very grateful         
×
×
  • Create New...