Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Got a problem!!!

I had my car dyno'd last night and as soon as it came off I noticed the battery warning light is on and the car seems to be charging the battery now at 16v, even on idle?? - I had a look today and there is fresh corrosion all over the positive terminal. Has anyone had this problem before or know what it might be?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/72858-battery-charging-problem-er34/
Share on other sites

As above.

Sounds like your alternator is overcharging the battery, this will greatly shorten the life of the battery and at worse case may cause it to leak.  Get the voltage regulator/alternator checked by an auto elec.

cool, Im going to take it somewhere tomorrow and get them to check it out - Im not sure but it looks as if the seals on the screw tops on one of the cores is maybe busted out...... :)

do you guys have any idea on what that would cost to fix by any chance??

The Battery light is an indicator for the altenator only, it does not come on if the battery is stuffed.

The light excites the alt, and if it is not regulating the reg must have given up the ghost.. If you remove it it will be cheaper for you, just tell the auto elec that she is charging at 16volts and let him go from there. Nothing is worse then someone bringing in a alt/starter and saying "this dont work" without acctually seeing what its doing.

Saying that the reg is stuffed might also be incorrect as most alts have a voltage sensing wire, and it has blown a fuse or has a break in the wire, the alt will detect no battery voltage and therefore charge flat out.

Cheers

Sumo

ouch, that sounds a bit pricey.

But I would dare say the labour component in sydney would be far dearer then out here.

Damage?? what kind of damage is he looking for? only time damage occurs is if the stator burns out or a bearing collapses.

Cheers

Sumo

Hey guys!! It ended up being fixed - if i had more time I would have shopped around for the price but needed it fixed quickly..

The guy ended up replacing the bearing and the regulator (looks really wierd? has a heatsink on it and a round circle area? looked like the bearing sat in there) - it ended up costing $269 all up. The guy seemed to know what he was doing, and its working fine. Crisis over!!! hehe

Most autoelec's do... LOL

Its always good practice to do bearings when servicing an alt... Shop policy here otherwise we will sell the reg and you do it. The labour on an r34 would have been the reason for the $200 part of the job. Ripping an alt down and working on it will take $50 worth of parts and about 20 minutes if nothing too serious. Its the pulling this off to get to that and then putting it all back together which is where most of your money went. But $269 is good....

hehe I guess you'd definitely hope so!!!!!!

the price for the reg was put down at $90 and the bearing was $35. The rest of it was put to labour, he said there'd be about 2 hrs of work in it (maybe also the fact that he didnt really know what car it was!!!! hehe he was an old bloke)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
    • Heh. I copied the link to the video direct, instead of the thread I mentioned. But the video is the main value content anyway. Otherwise, yes, in Europe, surely you'd be expected to buy local. Being whichever flavour of Michelin, Continental or Pirelli suits your usage model.
×
×
  • Create New...