Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

How much heat do you think it will take to get the 595 Rs-R working ok for street conditions.

Do you think under normal street conditions they will grip more, or less than the normal 595ss ?

Im looking for an amazing street tyre, thats going to be able to be ok on the track. I dont really want to run a street tyre + a track semi at this stage.

The 595RS-R grips best when it is at 60 - 80C on the tread face, normally you wouldnt be able to generate that kind of heat on the street (unless you were driving very hard for a long time on a hot day).

However, compared to normal street tyres the 595RS-R will provide much more dry traction even when cold.

I use the RS-R's for street and track use and I dont think I will be able to go back to street tyres now, there is just so much grip available with them fitted to my Skyline... If you want extreme traction for the street you would be very happy with a set of 595RS-R's.

BTW - I have managed to get 30,000kms+ from a set of 595RS before - which goes to show that you can get good mileage from them. :D

I put sumitomo HTRZ III in 235/45zr17 94y on my skyline a couple of weeks ago, after several personal recommendations. They aren't that expensive ($190 fitted) and I've been very impressed with them so far.

Grip is good, and when they do start to loose it - ie going around a corner and you put your foot down a bit - they fail gracefully, ie slide a little bit, then a bit more if you push them. With my normal driving around town - when I wasn't trying to test them - they aren't sliding at all.

I haven't had a real go in the wet yet (hasn't been raining much when I've been out) but the one shower I did catch showed they were still sticky in the rain.

8/10

Ian

Edit: I double posted the above due to an error with the ad.yieldmanager.com that this site uses.. I'll do a post about it in the appropriate area!

Hi All,I haven't posted for a long time as I've been away working ,so I'll make up for it with this story.

As some of you will know I have a 95 GTR 33 that stays locked up in the garage unless i'm going on a trip or a decent drive as i don't like using it round town or parking it for long periods.

While I was away working recently my 19 yr old son decided that he had run all the other r31 skylines I have out of fuel and needed desperately to see his girlfriend,solution get the gtr out and take that grrrr.whilst coming home he was pulled over for a vehicle check which mean't they were going to find something wrong with every vehicle to pay their way for their night's work.

Subsequently they canaried the car for excessive noise and 2 unroadworthy tyres,not to mention the fact that my son was driving only on a learners permit grrrr,so when I got home I had an unroadworthy car in the garage thankfully with only minor scuff damage to the front bar,and a $567.00 fine which he will be paying.

I then had to find a way out of the exhaust problem which I did,and not by cutting up my $3000.00 nismo system but by another means which I won't divulge here,by the way turns out the exhaust was only 7db over the 90db limit but still it was deemed to be more of a nuisance than a harley with straight pipes which ride the steets with impunity,how can that be? then it was on to the tyres which I believed to be in more than barely roadworthy condition and this was confirmed by a tyre outlet's inspection,however then when I took the car for a roadworthy which was also demanded by the cops I was told that the 2 rear tyres were not roadworthy because the insides were worn down for about an inch inwards even though the rest of the tread was 50 percent.I then went for the forum to see what you all thought of tyre brands and types.

I had recently replaced 2 tyres with Falken fk452's 245x40x18's so thought I would replace the other two with the same,thinking they were the same tyres all around but to my surprise the ones needing replacement were falken 326's which on reading 100 or more posts on tyres I found to be absolute shit so they will not be my new choice but I am planning to put 2 more of the falken fk452's that are on the front to get them all the same.

My questions are What size wheels and tyres came out on the r33 gtr of that year and were the sizes the same front and rear?? What is the max legal size for this car,tyre and rims?? also I have read on the forum that to have a difference between front and back would cause handling problems is this right??

Also what differences can I expect if I use a 35 instead of a 40 profile? will it only be a harsher ride,as I already have tien suspension all round which already provides a hard ride, or are the handling differences significant and would a mixture of these two profiles front and back affect the diffs in any way??

Someone also wrote on the forum that gtr's are notorious for camber problems which cause this premature wear on the insides of the tyres,is this a front or rear problem??do all gtr models have this problem or has it been overcome, as I don't want to lose another set of tyres at $350 a pop if I can fix it now??

Any opinions on the Falken fk452's 245x40 x18's would also be appreciated and prices and where to get them,I would like to keep all the tyres the same so I can rotate them.Cheers In advance Greypearl.

The 595RS-R grips best when it is at 60 - 80C on the tread face, normally you wouldnt be able to generate that kind of heat on the street (unless you were driving very hard for a long time on a hot day).

However, compared to normal street tyres the 595RS-R will provide much more dry traction even when cold.

I use the RS-R's for street and track use and I dont think I will be able to go back to street tyres now, there is just so much grip available with them fitted to my Skyline... If you want extreme traction for the street you would be very happy with a set of 595RS-R's.

BTW - I have managed to get 30,000kms+ from a set of 595RS before - which goes to show that you can get good mileage from them. :)

Hi guys im new here. :)

How are the 595RS-R in the wet?

Hi All,I haven't posted for a long time as I've been away working ,so I'll make up for it with this story.

As some of you will know I have a 95 GTR 33 that stays locked up in the garage unless i'm going on a trip or a decent drive as i don't like using it round town or parking it for long periods.

While I was away working recently my 19 yr old son decided that he had run all the other r31 skylines I have out of fuel and needed desperately to see his girlfriend,solution get the gtr out and take that grrrr.whilst coming home he was pulled over for a vehicle check which mean't they were going to find something wrong with every vehicle to pay their way for their night's work.

Subsequently they canaried the car for excessive noise and 2 unroadworthy tyres,not to mention the fact that my son was driving only on a learners permit grrrr,so when I got home I had an unroadworthy car in the garage thankfully with only minor scuff damage to the front bar,and a $567.00 fine which he will be paying.

I then had to find a way out of the exhaust problem which I did,and not by cutting up my $3000.00 nismo system but by another means which I won't divulge here,by the way turns out the exhaust was only 7db over the 90db limit but still it was deemed to be more of a nuisance than a harley with straight pipes which ride the steets with impunity,how can that be? then it was on to the tyres which I believed to be in more than barely roadworthy condition and this was confirmed by a tyre outlet's inspection,however then when I took the car for a roadworthy which was also demanded by the cops I was told that the 2 rear tyres were not roadworthy because the insides were worn down for about an inch inwards even though the rest of the tread was 50 percent.I then went for the forum to see what you all thought of tyre brands and types.

I had recently replaced 2 tyres with Falken fk452's 245x40x18's so thought I would replace the other two with the same,thinking they were the same tyres all around but to my surprise the ones needing replacement were falken 326's which on reading 100 or more posts on tyres I found to be absolute shit so they will not be my new choice but I am planning to put 2 more of the falken fk452's that are on the front to get them all the same.

My questions are What size wheels and tyres came out on the r33 gtr of that year and were the sizes the same front and rear?? What is the max legal size for this car,tyre and rims?? also I have read on the forum that to have a difference between front and back would cause handling problems is this right??

Also what differences can I expect if I use a 35 instead of a 40 profile? will it only be a harsher ride,as I already have tien suspension all round which already provides a hard ride, or are the handling differences significant and would a mixture of these two profiles front and back affect the diffs in any way??

Someone also wrote on the forum that gtr's are notorious for camber problems which cause this premature wear on the insides of the tyres,is this a front or rear problem??do all gtr models have this problem or has it been overcome, as I don't want to lose another set of tyres at $350 a pop if I can fix it now??

Any opinions on the Falken fk452's 245x40 x18's would also be appreciated and prices and where to get them,I would like to keep all the tyres the same so I can rotate them.Cheers In advance Greypearl.

Hi again, Just an update on the new tyres I bought today in melb, I managed to get the

Falken fk252 in 245x40x18 for $319.00 buying only 2 so if anyones interested i can tell you where.Cheers Greypearl

For my own car I have ended up with a set of V8RS Hannkooks

Just an update about these tyres. They drive really well, nice and smooth and quite with great feel. The design of the tyre allows it to generate some grip at high speed under high load and they are progressive at the limit but the rubber compound is hard and whilst they are wearing really well they don't quite have the grip levels I am looking for.

IMO these are not ultra high performance tyres even though they are sold as such. They lack grip when accellerating off the line and low speed braking even though the corner grip isn't too bad they are not in the leguage of pilot sports goodyear F1's and not as good as the federals 595ss.

I must say overall I am dissapointed with the tyres even though they do really drive well from a feel and ride quality perspective.

If the rubber was a softer compound I think this would be a very good tyre.

At this stage with about 2000km on the tyres I am ready to remove them and buy something else. I am currently looking at the new F1 or RE-001's but due to limited tyre sizes available I cant get the exact sizes I need so I am still looking atm.

Hi guys im new here. :)

How are the 595RS-R in the wet?

I havent been in this thread for a while, sorry for the late reply... :)

They arent bad in the wet, certainly not dangerous. In the latest Motor magazine tyre test they rated best in wet braking.

I have never had any surprises in the wet and I use them as a daily driven tyre on my R32.

I havent been in this thread for a while, sorry for the late reply... :(

They arent bad in the wet, certainly not dangerous. In the latest Motor magazine tyre test they rated best in wet braking.

I have never had any surprises in the wet and I use them as a daily driven tyre on my R32.

cheers for the reply.

I currently have Yokohama DNA s Drive 255/40/17 on the rear and Bridgestone Potenza G III 234/45/17 on the front.

looks like 595 RSR come in that size, sweet.

Just wondering are there any advantages to having taller front tyres then rear, kinda looks silly, I guess the load ratings may have something to do with that. So I was thinking of going to 245/40/17 on the front, they are lower load rating but still above the recommended load rating.

Got a choice between Federal 595SS or Toyo T1R in 225/50R16's for my new GTR..

Mainly for daily driven road use for now.. May see a track day later on if I haven't gone for larger rims by then.

Which one should I go for? Or much of a muchness. Price difference isn't too much between them. Both seem to be fairly favoured on here.

  • 2 weeks later...

Looking at some options for 225/50R16 on the back end:

Nankang NS-2 $125

Federal 535 $135

Toyo TEO $154

Toyo Proxes 4 $175

I had a chat to a guy from Tyrepower on the phone (who quoted me for the Toyo's), he said the TEO is mostly as good as the Proxes 4, just doesn't perform as well in the wet. He also quoted me for Kumho KU25 ($142) and Falken ZE912 ($155) but said the Toyo's were far superior.

Any comments or other suggestions? Federal 595 is not available in this size.

I mainly do commuting, but want something that will be fun when i go for a twisty drive. Currently have BF Goodrich G-Force Sport on the front, which replaced Federal 535 (couldn't tell a difference when changed). I can't remember what's on the back at the moment - nothing special - haven't changed them since owning. I think they are called Blue Streak.

Edited by debonaire

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...