Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi guys a twin kit of hks gt2835 52t turbo's arrived today are in very good condition. there the very rare internallly wastegated model and sit low mount. there was only a limeted run of these ever made!!!! very very rare. perfectly suited to person that wants big hp but still want engine that looks stock. they look very simialar to the n1 setup but has massive wheels hehehe. beleive there rated at 420ps a piece but on gtr i would say rated at 800ps for the pair. wouldn't advise installing on standard rb26, on a worked gtr engine will haul ass and will keep cops veery confused as to how come so quick lol.

items come with 1month warranty from time of receiving goods but yer look in good condition, no pitting of blades, oil leaks or other nasties present. price is $3500 firm which is a bargain considering gt2530's go for same price used! be quick!

thanks

Mark

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/72984-big-hks-twin-turbo-kit-for-gtr/
Share on other sites

Guest two.06l
hi guys a twin kit of hks gt2835 52t turbo's arrived today are in very good condition. there the very rare internallly wastegated model and sit low mount. there was only a limeted run of these ever made!!!! very very rare. perfectly suited to person that wants big hp but still want engine that looks stock. they look very simialar to the n1 setup but has massive wheels hehehe. beleive there rated at 420ps a piece but on gtr i would say rated at 800ps for the pair. wouldn't advise installing on standard rb26, on a worked gtr engine will haul ass  and will keep cops veery confused as to how come so quick lol.

items come with 1month warranty from time of receiving goods but yer look in good condition, no pitting of blades, oil leaks or other nasties present. price is $3500 firm which is a bargain considering gt2530's go for same price used! be quick!

thanks

Mark

can we have a photo of the tag on the core. and list the numbers that are on it.

thanks for posts, yep 100% is gt2835. says gt2835 52t on core(serial number). turbo's have .64 rear housings and .60 front compressor covers. items are definatly not gt-rs as use the gt28 52t rear wheel compaired to the very small rear turbine of the hks gt25 series(gt-rs= gt2530 rear turbine wheel with hks gt2835 front compressor wheel) while checking item out for condition i notice the angle the exhuast gase enters on the face of the gt28 rear wheel looks like it would spool up pretty dam hard. if any one has more qeustions please post as more than happy to try and answer

thanks

Mark

Guest two.06l
thanks for posts, yep 100% is gt2835. says gt2835 52t on core(serial number). turbo's have .64 rear housings and .60 front compressor covers. items are definatly not gt-rs as use the gt28 52t rear wheel compaired to the very small rear turbine of the hks gt25 series(gt-rs= gt2530 rear turbine wheel with hks gt2835  front compressor wheel) while checking item out for condition i notice the angle the exhuast gase enters on the face of the gt28 rear wheel looks like it would spool up pretty dam hard. if any one has more qeustions please post as more than happy to try and answer  

thanks

Mark

so what your saying is there is no garret/hks part no. on the core. Can you post all the details on the core please.

ok soz yes will have to do tomorrow for u as are currently down at turbo shop soz. definatly hks gt2835 as in japan they don't sell just the normal garrett gt range like over here. also because seller i bought off also said he bought them off hks kansai

Guest two.06l
ok soz yes will have to do tomorrow for u as are currently down at turbo shop soz. definatly hks gt2835 as in japan they don't sell just the normal garrett gt range like over here. also because seller i bought off also said he bought them off hks kansai

would like to look at them...whats your location please?

ok got number for u all :

turbo 1:

ce7005j

gt2835-52t

700177-2

turbo 2:

ce7001j

gt2835-52t

700177-2

this is all of the numbers that are written on core plate. if u have any more qeustions please post

thanks

Mark

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah well per the video it took 15s for the stock unit to start up....even if I give it a few seconds discount for starting that is at least 12 sec before you get a reverse camera if you are trying to leave a park.  The android unit is way faster, but 2016 for the stock unit is a long time ago in consumer electronics
    • Yea that’s why I said ima test them with multimeter and see the reads.
    • Only at idle. Isn’t a problem when rev it seems.
    • @Haggerty This seems silly to ask, but are you confident in your ability to tune the Haltech?  
    • Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
×
×
  • Create New...