Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So who is running an RB20 with an RB25 box. Interested to hear ppls feedback.

My concerns are they are heavier then the RB20 box:(

Also the ratios are wider, so with a TD06 on my RB20 the last thing i want is taller gearing, would you really notice the difference? Crunch the numbers and they suggest you would.

Also the cost for an unknown quantity. Most boxes are drained, so cant really check the drain plug for synchros or swarf/filings...how do you tell the general condition of a g'box when its on the deck?

Has anyone heard of a way to beef up the RB20 box? I recall someone mentioning they can be re-built using CA18DET gearsets etc etc. I like the idea of a strong light gearbox, but cant see the budget stretching to a new custom gearset for the old girl unless the CA18 stuff goes in?

Last question, is the RB25 box the only solution, Z32 5-spds are plenty strong and cheaper, also thinking about a Supra 5 spd, S15 6 spd, though these ideas most likely suck.:)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/73100-rb20-with-a-rb25-gbox/
Share on other sites

I have a mate with a R31 with an RB20 and he got a 25 box put in about two years ago. i havent noticed any difference in how it drives... like the gearing. the only thing was the speedo cable didnt fit and he had to get an adaptor which was a hundred or so extra. he was running a 20box before the 25 too.

Ive got a r33 box in my 32 Roy. You can hardly notice the difference in ratios...well i cant when going from Joels car to mine it feels the same.

The only way not to get stung with a dud box is buying one with a warranty, or a recent rebuild history...

I didnt think you could "beef up" a manual box, but autos can be played with. If you decide to go for another box it would mean custom fabrication (like cutting welding bellhousings)....

R33 box is a damn good bolt on soultion for a r32, its just buying the worn out box you have to be careful with......

the S15 box is weaker than the S14 one anyway.

get the 25 one and be done with it.

I noticed no diff in my car either troy.

It sits a litle higher in the R31 Coupe due to the underbody config. But the 32s are fine i think benno said

A Z32 box is cheaper? I thought they were exxy as and also the pick of the bunch, but too hard and too costly to put in, as in rb25/26 box being the better cheaper option, even if they are a wisker weaker. No idea if its true tho, just what I have heard/read.

Id also be looking long term Roy, I mean if you ever do get sick of the RB20 (god forbid!) and go to the RB30 or something, how would a beefed up RB20 box hold then?

I'm surprised your gearbox is holding up at all Roy!  

s15 box - wouldn't bother.. Supra box - too expensive.  

getting the rb20 box beefed up could be an interesting proposition...

When cold and at low revs is now a bit notchy, but when warm or when shifting over 3,200rpm its fine...

I was thinking more an old school Supra 5 spd, not the 6 spd. Looks like it may be best to go RB25, but they weigh like an extra 20kgs.

It costs what it costs:( Just dont want to go throwing more weight into the car.

I was thinking more an old school Supra 5 spd

There are two 'old school' Supra boxes that I can think of:

The W58 supra box that's commonly referred to as the "Supra 5spd" is actually from the NA engines and by all reports it's about the same strength as the RB20 box (definitely about the same size and weight). About the same cost as well. I have heard some people say that the W58 can hold up fine behind 1UZ and 1/2JZGTE but i'd assume that this is only if it's treated carefully.

The big Supra box (R154) from the turboed engines is from all reports pretty much on par with the RB25 box in terms of strength, size, weight and cost. At least as difficult to find, possibly more.

So unless there is something about the Supra boxes that is overwhelmingly attractive (ie gearing), I can't see either being a really attractive option over the Nissan boxes, which are essentially a bolt in proposition and won't need a bunch of stuffing around and $ to fit.

Fair call then, put that idea to bed. Ppl use them behind 304/308s and 13Bs so thought they may be up to the job.

As for removing more weight, i doubt the HICAS system in my car weighed 30kgs. I have already removed it all with the exception of the lines that run rearward. Anyway, was dreading the thought of putting in a cage because of weight, with the g'box my car could end up weighing 80kg more then std, time to drain my wash bottle of water, thats 2L/2kg:)

Sound deadening? I had a good look at the rear hicas setup in a gtr the otherday.....the thing is huge, i can see where the mechanic quoted his 30kg figure from, that was including lines and everything to do with the system though.

Ahh, what is the normal manula diff ratio? Ive got a spreadhseet at home with all that guff, is it 4.11 or something.

I may try to track down an auto diff when getting mine re-shimmed, didnt realise they were a different ratio. Seriously who cares if you only get a top speed of 240km/h, there arent too many places inlcuding the straights at PI/Sandown where you get up to that speed anyway.

Ahh, what is the normal manula diff ratio? Ive got a spreadhseet at home with all that guff, is it 4.11 or something.

I may try to track down an auto diff when getting mine re-shimmed, didnt realise they were a different ratio. Seriously who cares if you only get a top speed of 240km/h, there arent too many places inlcuding the straights at PI/Sandown where you get up to that speed anyway.

I don't have anything concrete to back it up but everything I've read says manual = 4.11 and auto = 4.33.

My car WAS an auto (g'box) and converted to manual, and my speedo reads high leading me belive the diff ratio is different. However, it reads higher than the 5% you'd expect from a manual g'box mated to an auto diff, so perhaps i have other issues (such as the speedo gear thingy) causing (or further compounding) the error.

I'm not sure whether on the r32's they have a different ratio diff.. I think I remember reading there wasn't any difference on R32's.. but R33's and plenty of other cars there is a difference. Somebody quote the model number off their diff, and i'll crawl under and see whether mine has a different one (auto atm)

The W58 supra box that's commonly referred to as the "Supra 5spd" is actually from the NA engines and by all reports it's about the same strength as the RB20 box (definitely about the same size and weight). About the same cost as well. I have heard some people say that the W58 can hold up fine behind 1UZ and 1/2JZGTE but i'd assume that this is only if it's treated carefully.

I don't think thats much chop like you say. Guy up here put one in his HR31, and I think it didn't take long to destroy it at low 200rwkw levels. If its anything like the HR31, he said it was a bit of a stuff around to get it in and the shifter doesn't align properly in the cabin anyhow.

Roy! I just had a tremendous thought!

More weight would make more load correct? More load could = less lag! :(

[edit] also Mark on here (summoner) he was using a RB30ET box. He said its the same as a RB25 box just without the double syncros. So a bit stronger than the RB20 box, and not quite up there with the 25. But Im guessing one lot less syncros should be less weight.

Im a porky 103kgs at the moment, time to lose some weight, i can lose an easy 10kgs, it all helps. Now to find an RB25 box and soemone to install it, i couldnt be bothered doing it myselef then only to get the car towed for the new tailshaft/balancing etc. Say goodbye to another 2k:(

LOL...on another note im starting a diary this weekend, noting cylinder pressures etc. I want to get some decent rubber, then i have to talk to the guy that tuned my car to see if the tune is ok for 1.4-1.5bar, i want an 11.99sec pass at around 116-118mph before i can sleep at night...fear my attempts will kill the g'box well before the engine, and at 2k ill wait until the g'box dies rather then pre-empt it:)

Right now im feeling pretty shitty, and reasdy to destroy something, may as well see if i can be in someway constructive with my anger:)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey Dave, welcome aboard! Good to see another soon-to-be Stagea owner here. The wagons are awesome — plenty of space, still got that Skyline DNA, and loads of potential if you’re into mods. Definitely post up pics when you get it, everyone here loves seeing new builds. What model/year are you looking at?
    • See if you can thermal epoxy a heatsink or two onto it?
    • The other problem was one of those "oh shit we are going to die moments". Basically the high spec Q50s have a full electric steering rack, and the povo ones had a regular hydraulic rack with an electric pump.  So couple of laps into session 5 as I came into turn 2 (big run off now, happily), the dash turned into a christmas tree and the steering became super heavy and I went well off. I assumed it was a tyre failure so limped to the pits, but everything was OK. But....the master warning light was still on so I checked the DTCs and saw – C13E6 “Heat Protection”. Yes, that bloody steering rack computer sitting where the oil cooler should be has its own sensors and error logic, and decided I was using the steering wheel too much. I really appreciated the helpful information in the manual (my bold) POSSIBLE CAUSE • Continuing the overloading steering (Sports driving in the circuit etc,) “DATA MONITOR” >> “C/M TEMPERATURE”. The rise of steering force motor internal temperature caused the protection function to operate. This is not a system malfunction. INSPECTION END So, basically the electric motor in the steering rack got to 150c, and it decided to shut down without warning for my safety. Didn't feel safe. Short term I'll see if I can duct some air to that motor (the engine bay is sealed pretty tight). Long term, depending on how often this happens, I'll look into swapping the povo spec electric/hydraulic rack in. While the rack should be fine the power supply to the pump will be a pain and might be best to deal with it when I add a PDM.
    • And finally, 2 problems I really need to sort.  Firstly as Matt said the auto trans is not happy as it gets hot - I couldn't log the temps but the gauge showed 90o. On the first day I took it out back in Feb, because the coolant was getting hot I never got to any auto trans issues; but on this day by late session 3 and then really clearly in 4 and 5 as it got hotter it just would not shift up. You can hear the issue really clearly at 12:55 and 16:20 on the vid. So the good news is, literally this week Ecutek finally released tuning for the jatco 7 speed. I'll have a chat to Racebox and see what they can do electrically to keep it cooler and to get the gears, if anything. That will likely take some R&D and can only really happen on track as it never gets even warm with road use. I've also picked up some eye wateringly expensive Redline D6 ATF to try, it had the highest viscosity I could find at 100o so we will see if that helps (just waiting for some oil pan gaskets so I can change it properly). If neither of those work I need to remove the coolant/trans interwarmer and the radiator cooler and go to an external cooler....somewhere.....(goodbye washer reservoir?), and if that fails give up on this mad idea and wait for Nissan to release the manual 400R
    • So, what else.... Power. I don't know what it is making because I haven't done a post tune dyno run yet; I will when I get a chance. It was 240rwkw dead stock. Conclusion from the day....it does not need a single kw more until I sort some other stuff. It comes on so hard that I could hear the twin N1 turbos on the R32 crying, and I just can't use what it has around a tight track with the current setup. Brakes. They are perfect. Hit them hard all day and they never felt like having an issue; you can see in the video we were making ground on much lighter cars on better tyres under brakes. They are standard (red sport) calipers, standard size discs in DBA5000 2 piece, Winmax pads and Motul RBF600 fluid, all from Matty at Racebrakes Sydney. Keeping in mind the car is more powerful than my R32 and weighs 1780, he clearly knows his shit. Suspension. This is one of the first areas I need to change. It has electronically controlled dampers from factory, but everything is just way too soft for track work even on the hardest setting (it is nice when hustling on country roads though). In particular it rolls into oversteer mid corner and pitches too much under hard braking so it becomes unstable eg in the turn 1 kink I need to brake early, turn through the kink then brake again so I don't pirouette like an AE86. I need to get some decent shocks with matched springs and sway bars ASAP, even if it is just a v1 setup until I work out a proper race/rally setup later. Tyres. I am running Yoko A052 in 235/45/18 all round, because that was what I could get in approximately the right height on wheels I had in the shed (Rays/Nismo 18x8 off the old Leaf actually!). As track tyres they are pretty poor; I note GTSBoy recently posted a porker comparo video including them where they were about the same as AD09.....that is nothing like a top line track tyre. I'll start getting that sorted but realistically I should get proper sized wheels first (likely 9.5 +38 front and 11 +55 at the rear, so a custom order, and I can't rotate them like the R32), then work out what the best tyre option is. BTW on that, Targa Tas had gone to road tyres instead of semi slicks now so that is a whole other world of choices to sort. Diff. This is the other thing that urgently needs to be addressed. It left massive 1s out of the fish hook all day, even when I was trying not too (you can also hear it reving on the video, and see the RPM rising too fast compared to speed in the data). It has an open diff that Infiniti optimistically called a B-LSD for "Brake Limited Slip Diff". It does good straight line standing start 11s but it is woeful on the track. Nismo seem to make a 2 way for it.
×
×
  • Create New...