Jump to content
SAU Community

R32 Cooler Kit and PowerFC

masTers
 Share

Recommended Posts

masTers Mentor

masTers

Posted
Posted

Hey guys due to a massive change in plans, I have the following brand new items for sale. Boxes have only been opened to inspect the actual goods on arrival. Prices are FIRM, and please don’t whinge about I can get this for $$$ from here or there. These products are here and ready to go, no customs duties or gst. I am loosing money on these items, as they where bought in Australia.

  • Trust/Greddy V-SPL R32 RB20-DET Tube and Fin FMIC KIT WITH Piping, Clamps, etc..

$1550 Delivered Anywhere in Australia.

  • AP Engineering R32 RB20-DET Power-FC with Hand Controller

$1650 Delivered Anywhere in Australia.

As I said prices are firm. Both these items are in Western Australia, and will be sent to your door via AAE.

Cheers, Steve

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/73189-r32-cooler-kit-and-powerfc/
Share on other sites
Hawker180 Proficient

Hawker180

Posted
Posted
not trying to cut your grass here steve but you can get powerFC's brand spankers from a number of forums' sponsors for less than $1000 :(

Obviouslly you dont know much about the Rb20DET power FC's!

Apexi dont make a power FC for the RB20's and a company called "AP engineering"

Obviouslly AP engineering add on an extra $500ish for their troubles!

$1650 is a very good price for a RB20DET PFC, Good Luck with the sale masTers

masTers Mentor

masTers

Posted
  • Author
Posted

From memory no, but ill have a flick through the instruction booklet when I get home.

I do know that there is no drilling required, as there is mounting points on the chassis that the cooler utilizes.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • silviaz
      Returning after a long time!

      By silviaz · Posted

      That's awesome. Fully serviced/full log book history for one of those cars is super rare from what I know. With JDM's like Skyline's, Supras, are quite hard to find one with full log book history. S15's seem to be somewhat of an exception, at least the spec s australian delivered models.
    • DRoc81
      R33 GTS25 NA - Stalling when vehicle is at operating temp

      By DRoc81 · Posted

      Hey all, It's been a bit since I have been able to update.  I pulled the fuel pump, first off it was a "universal" pump and the strainer was very clogged, and it was folded over on itself.  I replaced the fuel pump and all is well....  No more stalling.
    • Roy
      Garrett G Series

      By Roy · Posted

      That's convinced me I'll bump up the G30-660 to 770   Any idea if the difference in boost pressure? Cheers
    • Keeper
      SAUNSW - GTR Festival 2025 - Saturday 24th May

      By Keeper · Posted

      When: Saturday 24th of May 2025 - All day Where: Sydney Dragway, Eastern Creek Cost: Varies - Book direct with the GTR Festival Website We will be there on the day with a stand please reach out via our interest form if you wish to help out with the stand. Limited parking will be available in the display area, first in first served with current members getting priority, please register your interest with the link above also. Please post any great photos you take on the day on this thread and we will try use some in our e-mails/website/social media
    • silviaz
      Steps to DIY sanding car back ready for respray....

      By silviaz · Posted

      Hey guys so turns out this project is going to be much bigger than I thought haha but I've done some my homework and have done a few panels on my car, but one part I can just not visualise is this. If I do a spot repair and I put filler in a dent for example and sand outside of the repair with 320 grit lets say so the primer can stick as I will only put primer on that repair and the surrounding area and then repaint the whole panel. Don't I need to make sure that I don't put primer on the old clear coat? I keep seeing YouTube videos where people have new paint and primer land on the old clearcoat that isn't even dulled down, it's still shiny. I thought putting paint on clearcoat or primer on clearcoat is a bad idea because it won't stick. So in this scenario it's a bit different to mine but imagine someone doing a spot repair and only painting that small section of repair but the new paint is landing on the old clearcoat. What am I missing?
×
×
  • Create New...