Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok I posted a thread here about one of these but no one had tried one so i bought one to see how it goes.

I have previously tried 3 boost controllers and this is equally as cood as the Electronic boost controller i had.

Greddy cabin pnumatic bleed valve. spiked like shite and wasnt too good.

Atomic GFB bleed valve. was a little better but still spiked.

GRID single stage electronic boost controller. it was very good and did not spike and it was very accurate.

The one i just bought is a mechanical/pnumatic controller and is well made.

53_1_b.jpg

i drew a little paint sketch to show how it works

lfgkjg.jpg

It builds boost INSTANTLY because the ball does not let any pressure through preventing wastegate creep. Then when it reaches the desired boost level it opens and holds the boost within 1 psi of the set level.

I set it to 12 psi and it does not spike at all! but it does bleed off 1 psi at very high rpm.

The car is now super responsive because it gets to 12 psi alot quicker and holds there.

I bought it of ebay and i suspect the guy who sells them builds them but they are very well made and work incredibly well

Just thought i would post my results for those who are looking for a boost controller. Sometimes car accessories are really cheap on seasonal Big W Catalogue.

UPDATE... this is for the 100's of people wanting to know how to install one of these buggars... Check (if you live in usa): Kroger Weekly Ad, or Myer catalogue.

R33 INSTALLATION DIAGRAM

Edited by CEF11E
  • Replies 1.8k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

just gave the car a good hard test and i have been able to get the boost to hit 12psi at 2600rpm!!! and it stays there untill 6400rpm and then drops about 1psi close to redline.

I have an auto and the car just feels so much better to drive. there is tons more torque down lower in the rev range maknig the car more enjoyable to drive.

i cant belive its the same engine and turbo because it boosts so much faster.

at 4.5 psi (stock boost for my car) without the controller boost starts to build at 2600 and full boost by 3100~3200. and the car feels very laggy. The car is a nissan gloria and is a cruiser designed for smooth power delivery.

with the controller boost starts at 2200 and full boost (4.5 psi) by 2400. this means it is stoping wastegate creep very well. it also means my stock actuator sucks!!!

so not only can you use it to deliver more boost you can also use it to deliver boost much faster.

Its funny how sometimes the simplest thing gives an excellent result. i thought i would give this a try and if it was crappy i was going to build the jaycar boost controller but for 20min install and $22.50 i got a result i am very happy with!

I would say i just got the cheapest power gain ever prob about $1 per kilowatt!!!

:rofl:

yep exactly... its a bit at a time process.

first you leave it completly open giving you normal boost level

(opposite to other bleed valves) with normal bleed valves the more you open them the higher boost you get.

take it for a spin, make sure no hoses have come loose and boost builds normally.

raise boost by tightening the allen key down 1/4 turn, go for a drive. repeat untill you have reached your desired peak boost.

once it is acheived tighten the locking nut in place so it stays at that boost level.

I've just picked one of these suckers up. :D

It actually works a little different to the one I had previously.

This one doesn't appear to bleed any boost at all but use a variable pressure on the spring.

The one I tried had a preset pressure on the spring and ball then would bleed boost in order to get the required boost. :D

a question i have an external gate now it has 2 nipples on it now i just got one of these boost controllers and i know it has to go some where so where and what nipple does it go on

turbo007copy4ay.jpg

bottom at the moment is connected to the inlet manifold so do i tee into that line with the boost tap the run the line from the tap to the top of the waste gate???

I've just picked one of these suckers up. :P

It actually works a little different to the one I had previously.

This one doesn't appear to bleed any boost at all but use a variable pressure on the spring.

The one I tried had a preset pressure on the spring and ball then would bleed boost in order to get the required boost. :(

So you're happy with it for the money?

It took 7 days for delivery including the 1-2days it took for my online banking direct deposit to clear.

I've attached a few pics of it. Initial inspection of the spring and ball was its rather decent quality.

The spring is very much so decent quality and has a heavy duty feel.

I'll hook it up within the next day or so and let you all know how well it works.

In parts.. You can see the small hole that stops the pressure being trapped between the ball/spring and the actuator.

Really for $22 its worth it PROVIDING it controls boost. lol I'll find out.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My guesstimate, with no real numbers to back it up, is it won't effect it greatly at all.its not a huge change in position, and I can't see the air flow changing from in turbulence that much based on distance, and what's in front of it. Johnny and Brad may have some more numbers to share from experience though.
    • Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
    • Pull codes via the self-diagnosis procedure. As far as I can tell this is just a sign of transmission issues but not a code unto itself.
×
×
  • Create New...