Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 1.8k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

HI froggy,

This is mark the maker and seller of the controller in question. I have them on ebay for $42 but I am continuing to offer the item to skyliners at $28 which includes express delivered.

They can be paid for by money order, direct bank deposit or by Paypal which is easiest.

Orders can be placed by simply emailing me at [email protected]

and providing your name and address and I will in turn supply payment details. Too easy!

Cheers everyone,

Mark

HI froggy,

This is mark the maker and seller of the controller in question. I have them on ebay for $42 but I am continuing to offer the item to skyliners at $28 which includes express delivered.

They can be paid for by money order, direct bank deposit or by Paypal which is easiest.

Orders can be placed by simply emailing me at [email protected]

and providing your name and address and I will in turn supply payment details. Too easy!

Cheers everyone,

Mark

Hey mark will send you an email as im very interested in buyimg one of these for my 32. Is this better than have an electronic boost system???

:(

Depends on what EBC you use and how well its tuned. Most EBC's really need to be tuned properly to work well. The main advantage of an EBC is adjustable accurate boost control.

I had an avcr that wasnt working too well (wasnt tuned either though) and just bought one of these for testing, it does indeed work a treat. I run 1.3bar and it builds boost nice and quick and holds it well too.

Depends on what EBC you use and how well its tuned. Most EBC's really need to be tuned properly to work well. The main advantage of an EBC is adjustable accurate boost control.

I had an avcr that wasnt working too well (wasnt tuned either though) and just bought one of these for testing, it does indeed work a treat. I run 1.3bar and it builds boost nice and quick and holds it well too.

Its a no name brand (as far as i know as it has no markings on it) it came with the car when i imported it. Opened up the glove box and there were 3 controllers in there. One is the boost and the other is the turbo timer (which i dont use) and i dont know what the other one is for???

Just thought i would try one of these valves and see how it goes???

ok I just installed mine. made a cut between my T piece (with looks more like a Y piece on the GTT) and what I thought was the wastegate actuator (cylindrical gold thingy) as per the instructions.

I must have done something wrong (wish somebody would post a pic) because I am getting boost to the top of the stock guage 1000mmHG when the allen bolt is fully screwed or fully unscrewed doesn't make a dif....

FFS! Help please... (I don't have a didge cam to take a pic either)

The connection from the boost control to the wastegate is not the best. I put the clamp from the charcoal cannister on it. Could this be leaking air and causing this?

HI this mark, the maker of the controller.

Ensure your have the barb that comes from teh controller at a right angle is the one that goes to the wastegate, the other barb goes to teh turbo.

Also, if you ahve been screwing th ebolt right in you may possibly have over tighten and jammed the spring. Remove the bolt and make sur the spring is freely sitting in the controller shaft (beb sure to put the ball back where it belongs)

Cheers,

Mark

From what I can see it looks fine. But just by looking at the bolt. It looks like you have it tightened up for MAX boost. I sent it to you on low boost which should be just slightly above what you were running. They are a very fine adjustment requiring just a 1/4 turn to make a difference of maybe a pound or so. It seems to me you have overtigtened the bolt and caused it to jam on full. Remove the bolt (while being careful that the spring and ball dont fall out) adn make sure the spring is not jammed down th ebottom. If so poke it out and drop the ball in down the bottom and drop the spring in on top. Once you replace the bolt as soon as it starts to touch the spring it is controller boost. Only slight adjustments are needed.

Cheers

Mark

ok mark after another test drive i wound out the bolt as much as possible. Still overboosting. Cause = end of spring stuck in thread. Pulled out spring and ball, put back in ball then spring.

Another test run. Still overboosting. This time spring not stuck but ball bearing lodged in the inside of the right angle part that connects to the actuator... this supposed to happen? Is the ball bearing supposed to be able to travel up that high?

HI you got me stuffed why your having grief LOL

The ball goes not in the right angle barb but the other one (the one that goes to turbo. Then put in bolt so there is atleast SOME pressure on the spring, the ball then can not possibly move up that far.

WHen re assembling the controller, be sure to not have it sideway or upside down otherwise its too hard tell if the ball went where it should..

Will resume testing tommorrow and post results. Have reinstalled made sure ball is in right place, spring is free and bolt screwed in enough to just start putting tension on spring.

Guess it must be in the right place otherwise I wouldn't be getting 1000mmHG boost equal to 18.8 psi I think. If tommorrow doesn't work out I'll have to take it out completely cos my turbo will die pretty quick at that psi even on very brief bursts.

Not sure did u check the pix on the previous page?

The fact that I am getting excessive boost tells me that I must have otherwise the solenoid would still be controlling the boost and not being intercepted?

Perhaps my unit is faulty according to Mark my install is ok going by pix...

Oh and is 1000mmHG = almost 19psi?

something is going wrong there. Its going to be related to the solanoid. You should prob bypass the solanoid and supply the boost controller with pressure from the compressor side of the turbo

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I don't know for sure, but I'd expect them all to be interchangeable given the diff end and hub end don't move/change between any C34 series. Often Nissan will change part numbers and the aftermarket follows those year ranges; but the original part number change doesn't mean other parts won't fit. The change could be a change in material, internal parts or even just supplier. For example, all the RB gearbox to engine bolts are no longer available and there is a new part number instead. The only change is they went from cadmium plated bolts to zinc plated due to the issues manufacturing with Cadmium. They look different but work the same.
    • One year is a bit concerning. Did you try contacting GSP? It says 5 year warranty on the box if I remember correctly. I'm also running their driveshafts on my S2 Stagea.   You could check the part numbers on Amayama for your year. Here's the link for my 1998 which gives the 39100-23U60 part number. Well, that and 39100-23U70. https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/epc/nissan-japan/stagea/wgnc34/6649-rb25det/trans/391 What does it say for yours?
    • I ordered a GSP Front R/H Axle from here - https://justjap.com/products/gsp-premium-front-driveshaft-r-h-nissan-r32-r33-r34-skyline-gtr-stagea-4wd#description It lasted around a year before one of the boots blew out. I'm lowered, but I have GKTech roll center adjusters. One year seems a little premature. I think I'm going to spend the extra money on an OEM cv axle this time. This website - https://tfaspeed.com/collections/nissan-stagea-wgnc34-x-four-parts/products/nissan-stagea-awc34-260rs-rb26-right-front-axle-drive-assembly Makes it sound like the readily available OEM CV axle will only fit 11.1999 Stagea and up (mine is a 2.1997 S1). The JustJap listing didn't mention any years or anything for the GSP axle. Amayama shows '11.1999' and up as well for that part number. As well as 'plastic boot type'. See attached picture. So I guess my question is, does that axle (39100-23U60) really only fit S2 Stagea? It's the front driver side. If it does, I'd love to buy that instead of rolling the dice on another GSP. I've found that OEM one cheaper here: https://www.partsfornissans.com/oem-parts/nismo-jdm-r32-r33-r34-skyline-gtr-r32-gts4-right-front-axle-3910023u60 and here https://www.nissanparts.cc/oem-parts/nismo-shaft-ft-drive-3910023u60 Just a little confused because the JapSpeed listing for the GSP front driver axle doesn't mention any specific years or anything and it fit my S1 Stagea fine. So will 39100-23U60 fit my S1 Stagea even though technically it says '11.1999' and up? What would have changed? Thanks.  
    • Thanks for the info. The only "Issue" I've had with the shifter is I always found the throw between 4th and 6th gear too close. I'm always worried to shift into 4th accidently and sending my motor to the moon. Adam LZ recently came out with a video and stated Serialnine revised their shifters to correct this and will change all the revised parts for 150$. Strangely enough, I contacted Serialnine right after and they denied it and said it's bullshit. I found that strange as he's a distributer. I'll keep this forum post updated on that saga.
    • Yep that is correct. It allows you to adjust the short throw range from what I can tell
×
×
  • Create New...