Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

sumo unfortunately i can't forget the textbook "crap" as you say.

Ok think about physics: say for arguments sake.

area of ball bearing=.5cm2

k=8N/cm

instance (1):

Boost = 5N/cm2

and the screw is not screwed in at all. ie. spring has not been pretensioned.

F=kx

F=Press*Area

x=5*.5/8

x=.3125 cm

instance (2)

boost is same = 5N/cm2

k is same 8N/cm

area same .5cm2

but screw has been turned in .1cm

equation is

F=k(x+.1)

x+.1=5*.5/8

x=.2125cm

so even if screw is turned in the spring still has some compression. Hence air can get to the wastegate, this is my confusion and sumo can u explain what you mean?

"So if screw sol wont let boost past till its 13psi, wastgate sees 0 psi." The thing is it does, or should.

  • Replies 1.8k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

I think you'll find that even though the ball bearing is lifting the flow and hence presure is limited because the ball bearing isn't open far enough.... Of course in this design there will be some creep still. I find it suprising that it can both control creep and boost so well, but hey if it works it works.

Hi Guys,

Powerpuff thinks logical which is how I designed this controller plain ordinary logic.

(with some knowhow thrown in) :wassup:

If the wastegate can creep as pressure builds, then so can the controller ball.

But, is it better that the ball creeps or the wastegate?

All say Ball together!!

The ball may creep slightly so what 'does' get through is not sufficient to make the wastegate creep.

The reason you ask? Answer: the pressure from the ball creep is evacuated OUT of the tiny bleed hole that I specifically built in to the design. That means there is NO pressure great enough to budge the wastegate UNTIL the controller slams open and the pressure rushes to the wastegate in one hit (during this time, the bleed valve is overwhelmed and is no match for the burst)

The result: full boost. what you have set is what you get-no more no less

After backing off the ballslams shut. Then any pressure trapped between the wastegate and the controller is evacuated out of the bleed hole (this ELIMINATES SPIKE as there is no pressure left trapped between the wastegate and controller that adds to the next burst of boost- causing the dreaded spike). This process also stops back pressure to the turbo which would try to slow down the turbo buy attempting to spin it in the wrong direction thus causing lag.. Result: Far less lag.

turbotech: less spike, less lag, precise boost, no bullshit!

Mark

sumo unfortunately i can't forget the textbook "crap" as you say.  

Ok think about physics: say for arguments sake.

area of ball bearing=.5cm2  

k=8N/cm

instance (1):  

Boost = 5N/cm2

and the screw is not screwed in at all. ie. spring has not been pretensioned.

F=kx

F=Press*Area

x=5*.5/8

x=.3125 cm  

instance (2)

boost is same = 5N/cm2

k is same 8N/cm

area same .5cm2

but screw has been turned in .1cm

equation is  

F=k(x+.1)

x+.1=5*.5/8

x=.2125cm

so even if screw is turned in the spring still has some compression. Hence air can get to the wastegate, this is my confusion and sumo can u explain what you mean?

"So if screw sol wont let boost past till its 13psi, wastgate sees 0 psi." The thing is it does, or should.

But, the spring rate is adjustable - its not a constant. What should happen is any pressure that gets passed should be bled off. But if you get enough air flow, the bleeder might only be able to bleed off 1/2 PSI, so the wastegate will see full boost.

I did physics at school, and even though that the ideas of DC motors, magnetism and electricity stay the same, I have not once in my trade had to resort to using the basic equations.

Cheers

Sumo

HI Guys,

Message regarding payment of controllers:

A number of skyliners have included the ref number I gave out and as such I have been able to correlate the deposit with the correct name and had their item already sent.

However, so far two guys have not used the ref number. One has just got a BSB number and the other simply wrote 'boost controller'.

In short, I don't know who made the payment so I cant send the item. Please email me at [email protected] if you are one of the guys who did not use the ref number.

For all future puchasers, please ensure this ref number is used as it is impossible to work out who it is from.

Cheers,

Mark

Someone asked this before but I didn't see the answer.

Can you just switch this device in place of your current aftermarket bleed valve? My stock solenoid is out of the equation as I have extensive mods, and I've had a GFB Bleed valve put in. I am very interested in this item as in 1st-3rd gear I'm not hitting full boost until 4000rpm. 4th and 5th hit it quicker as it seems the turbo has more time to build up boost.

So... will this item directly replace the bleed valve or would I be running both (or remove bleed valve altogether). Thanks for any help guys. I'm very close to buying one of these.

Ok so I got mine today Mark, Thanks! A nice dark blue one too - good for keeping the attention away. I've got a question though - I don't have a Skyline but have a GTiR so I'm not sure how to hook it up.

I've attached two images; one of a GFB Bleed Valve already hooked up and one of my boost solenoid breakdown. Just hoping you can answer a few questions Mark, or if anybody else can help.

1. Can I just replace the GFB unit with your one with the same connections?

2. If not, using the boost solenoid sheet can you show me where or how I'm suppose to hook up your unit?

Thanks,

Andy

1. Can I just replace the GFB unit with your one with the same connections?

Yes.

1.connect the line coming from the actuator to the SIDE connection of the new controller

2. connect the other hose that was on the GFB to the BOTTOM of the new controller

thats it!

try it out and post your results for us!

note exactly what boost you were running before, how much it spiked and what rpm you got full boost at.

and then test the new controller and note the same things.

the more results we have the better for others to make a decision on wether this controller will be right for them :D

Ok, so from the diagram - you want me to connect the unit between the boost solenoid and hose number 5 correct? So the 'side' of the new unit will be plugged into directly hose 5, and I will need another hose to connect the 'bottom' of the new unit back into the solenoid?

EDIT: That diagram with the GFB was from another GTiR owner. ATM my car is runnign stock boost (10.6psi) and has not aftermarket unit control - hence why I'm unsure how to connect this new unit.

Thanks!

Andy

ok. from the diagram...

take 5 of the solanoid and connect 5 to the SIDE of the boost controller.

take(to air duct) off the solanoid and connect it to the BOTTOM of the boost controller and you are done :D

so you leave the solanoid completly out of the loop. and you are unpluging both connections from the solanoid and using them both for the new boost controller

The way you have described means that the stock solenoid is no longer in use correct? Well can you show me another way to connect it 'with' the stock solenoid? Reason being is that its has been proven that the stock solenoid actually assists spool up times and also has a safetly limp mode which could actually save my engine.

Sorry to be picky, but if you're still willing to help that would be most appreciated. Thanks again!

Andy

ok,the bleed valve i just took out,its not connected to the bov at all, in the instructions simark sent me,says i should connect it back to the bov, when i connected the first bleed valve to the bov, it wouldnt go up or down in boost,just made flutter noises

The way you have described means that the stock solenoid is no longer in use correct? Well can you show me another way to connect it 'with' the stock solenoid? Reason being is that its has been proven that the stock solenoid actually assists spool up times and also has a safetly limp mode which could actually save my engine.

Sorry to be picky, but if you're still willing to help that would be most appreciated. Thanks again!

Andy

hey andy you cant leave the solanoid connected its gotta go!!!!

it will think its still incontrol and mess things up. you will need to connect it as i discribed

ok,the bleed valve i just took out,its not connected to the bov at all, in the instructions simark sent me,says i should connect it back to the bov, when i connected the first bleed valve to the bov, it wouldnt go up or down in boost,just made flutter noises

hey champ, did you buy that other bleed valve from me? and it didnt do the job?

sorry to hear that.

just follow the instructions on the bit of paper and you will be fine :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
×
×
  • Create New...