Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 1.8k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

a question i have an external gate now it has 2 nipples on it now i just got one of these boost controllers  and i know it has to go some where so where and what nipple does it go on

turbo007copy4ay.jpg

bottom at the moment is connected to the inlet manifold so do i tee into that line with the boost tap the run the line from the tap to the top of the waste gate???

You have to run boost pressure to the top & your regulated boost pressure to the bottom. seems like you have spent some money, why would you risk it with a $22 boost controller?

Hi

I have three (3) payments for boost controllers with no reference number.

If you purchased one and did not include the ref number I gave you I can not send your item as I dont know who made the payment. emailng me to say you made a payment is not enough.

If this is you you must make contact with me and tell me what you did put in the reference line or if you wrote nothing, I need your bsb number.

Thanks,

Mark

Whacked mine in.

240rwkw R33, was running 15psi though a GFB Bleed Valve.

Pulled bleed valve out, put new valve in. Same spot, same pipes.

Found the right boost level and tested.

Boost does NOT spike 1 bit. Flies up to 15psi and then stops dead. Not one bit at all. However, rather than dropping off as I approach redline it is creaping up by about 1psi, so it effectively goes from 15psi up to 16psi. However I'm pretty sure the GFB was doing that to me as well anyway.

Overall. This item is a lot better than your average bleed valve. There is no reason to have a bleed valve when you can use this better item for far cheaper. The only convenience a bleed valve has is an easier adjustment (not so sensitive, no locker nut required).

Hi all, I hope you are enjoying the controller.

I still have payments from people who have not used the reference number I gave out. I don't know who they are from so can't send your item :confused: . If you wrote something other than the ref number pleae email me or you wont receive anything.

This is the third time I have posted about this so don't sook if a controller isn't in your mail box.

Cheers all

Mark

[email protected]

Is it normal to have an "exit" hole on the metal control thing (with the ball bearing in it..).

I've got two tube plugs, where the bolt goes, and then on the other side there's a hole drilled into it... only about 1mm wide.. so it's tiny.

I initially thought this is normal, but now i'm not so sure.. ?? Please confirm.

Thanks,

Well I just hooked it up... seems to boost slightly louder? Could just be me imagining things!

Defintely goes better though.. mid range is increased in my honest opinion. Before I just had a piece of copper pipe in there (to remove the standard actuator so I get over 4.5psi before 4500rpm), and damn, this ones much nicer!! :cheers: I can't believe I didn't install it earlier.

Just to confirm.. what boost comes up on my boost guage is defintely what the car is running? Like my boost guage comes up as 8psi now.. it wouldn't be running more? Just I noticed one of my rubber hoses that hookes up to this boost controller has a slight split in it.. I don't think it's leaking though, as a I just moved it up the plug lots. I'm paranoid about doing damage to my car.

Cheers,

Tommo.

Was boosting last night and something was suss...

Was spiking up 3psi!!!

Runs 15psi but was spiking up to 18psi when boosting hard in third.

Going to test again tonight to sus this out before making a final judgement on whether or not to put my GFB Bleeder back on which spikes 1psi.

Hmmm... seemed to work fine when I first installed it...

Hi Guys, I will be offline until tuesday night in case anyone is chasing me..

Just a reminder to those who did not use a reference number when depositing for the boost controller. I still have 6 payments for which I don't know who they are from. To date, not one person has made contact about this :confused:

Cheers all

Mark

Hi Guys,

After backing off the ballslams shut. Then any pressure trapped between the wastegate and the controller is evacuated out of the bleed hole (this ELIMINATES SPIKE as there is no pressure  left trapped between the wastegate and controller that adds to the next burst of boost- causing the dreaded spike). This process also stops back pressure to the turbo which would try to slow down the turbo buy attempting to spin it in the wrong direction thus causing lag.. Result: Far less lag.

turbotech: less spike, less lag, precise boost, no bullshit!

Mark

Mark seeing as,

"This process stops back pressure to the turbo which would try to slow down the turbo by attempting to spin it in the wrong direction thus causing lag..."

does your controller also negate the need for a blow off valve (plumb-back type or otherwise)??

Hi Guys, I will be offline until tuesday night in case anyone is chasing me..

Just a reminder to those who did not use a reference number when depositing for the boost controller. I still have 6 payments for which I don't know who they are from. To date, not one person has made contact about this  :confused:  

Cheers all

Mark

I hope umailed mine already

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nope.    Grab a varex and turn it down as you get close to home, win win? 
    • So, I've had my V36 for about a month now and have already copped an "excessive exhaust noise" notification from QLD TMR, reported by someone in my local area. It's a twin as per the original, and can have a bit of a throaty note to it when idling cold 😄 and if I do get up it a bit, it can be noisy, but it did pass a roadworthy inspection before sale, so.... ... but in the interest of being a good neighbour, I do want to quieten it down a bit. Is anyone here running a quiet aftermarket cat-back on their V36 or 370Z? And the big, bold question: does an aftermarket cat-back really make much of a performance difference on these cars?
    • The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
    • Yep...so unless someone posts up the answer you will need to probe from the ECU connector to the dash plug with a multi meter in continuity mode to trace the wires.  Note the ECU has multiple - and + (and across different key settings - Battery, IGN and Start) and most likely the power is fed from the connector(s) that is normally near the left hand headlight.
    • Thanks Duncan, I am actually just trying to get the Rb turning and running with the RB25DET S2 original loom itself  I am just trying to get it going outside the body and not thinking about the S15 or trying to match anything to the S15 loom at all I am only trying to see if anyone has done this and what pin they found to be the ignition trigger and ECU+/- on the dash connector, that's about it. Thanks  
×
×
  • Create New...