Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

the thread is 31 pages because people ask the same questions. wait till you get the boost controller, it comes with instructions. if they arent good enough, then come back and read the thread in reverse (im sure people have given install instructions many times in last 5 pages alone)

  • Replies 1.8k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Have read through most of this entire thread and saw only one comment on using these on a car with twin turbos and twin waste gates. Said to run the boost from both turbos through this controller and then to the two waste gates. Will this controller be able to handle this or will it be restictive. Please only reply if you know the answer and not assuming.

Thanks in advance, Kevin

Have read through most of this entire thread and saw only one comment on using these on a car with twin turbos and twin waste gates.  Said to run the boost from both turbos through this controller and then to the two waste gates.  Will this controller be able to handle this or will it be restictive.  Please only reply if you know the answer and not assuming.

Thanks in advance, Kevin

Kevin,

One pressure input is required into the valve, the outlet is run into a t piece which branches off to both actuators. 100% works superb! Try and keep the combined length of hose as short as possible for better control.

Sam.

Bought one of these today, great construction and a great price too! Just checked what boost I am currently running on my car, and it's set itself to 10PSI instead of the 14 I had it set to! Stupid GFB bleeder!

Hopefully this does a better job than the GFB that will be for sale soon :P

Theo

or a slap in the face

at default, mine was dropping boost (up to 8 then down to about 5), then we turned it up and now its about 9.5 and only spiking to a tad more, maybe 10. will be getting another for my other car :(

I retail them from Mark, TurboTech. A lot of people are mistaken that I designed or manafacture these, which I don't.

The reason I use them is I've found them to be excellent, almost no spiking and boost comes on as early or earlier than ANY EBC I have compared them too.

You can buy them from Mark directly, or through me.

Sam.

i was around at the start when this whole turbotech craze began... except now my cars running fine n dandy! I'll vouch for the 'almost no spiking'

I've already made two of my mates buy one!

My fiddlings with this boost control unit is they work best with a lightly sprung wastegate actuator. :(

I have it drop less almost no boost on a 6-7psi rated actuator than I do my rb20det 10-11psi actuator.

:P

Just installed this controller today. Comments? No words could describe.

Screwed the bolt in JUST a little (was worried it would fall out!) and hit 16 PSI instantly. Backed off, went home, unscrewed it a bit and it's at 14-15 which is decent.

Only issue is, my SR20 only has stock injectors :) So I hope they hold this boost for a while! I don't plan on reaching 1 BAR all the time, basically only when I am racing at Calder park or something. Finally noticed my old GFB controller was MEANT to be set to 13-14 PSI, but it went back down to 10 after a while.

All in all, I don't think I could recommend a better bang-for-buck mod for your turbo car.

10/10 from me! ;)

Theo

i'd like to order one of these controllers~ how do i do so!!!...need ASAP! if can PM would much appreciate it with payment details. i read earlier on it was $28 (express post included). trying to get hold of one by this weeked if possible.

see post #616 back the previous page (31) of this thread. i think its $35 including postage now which he's still kept cheaper for sau ppl than the ebay cost (42.40 something). ask him if u can go into a branch early tomorrow morning to deposit money, if he'll be able to send it out that arvo so u get it on friday.

maybe ask him if u can pay via paypal would be an alternative, as its instant.

Edited by NewKleer

i got mine today!! but i didnt read the instructions and played wid it and took off the screw peice haha then i read its preset hahah dammit.. how much roughly i gta turn it for 12-13psi?.. i jus installed it tonight havnt had a chance to take it out yet lol

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
    • Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
    • Those comp test results are not hideous. Whether they are accurate or not (ie, when that comp tester says 140 psi, is the real pressure120, 140 or 160?) is unknown to us. The state of the battery used to crank it over is unknown, etc etc. Many people around here would say that the absolute values and the spread are perfectly fine to just add boost and keep going. I personally would be happier with a narrower spread than that, but even the diff between 125 and 145 is not terrible. That one cylinder at 125 though, has probably copped some damage relative to the others. You should inspect the valves seeing as you've got it open. Do you know how to measure installed ring gaps? That, and an inspection of the rings themselves, is how you will determine whether they need to be replaced. If you're not good to do these things, take the block and the pistons and rings to a shop that is, and ask them for the go/no-go on them. Do the bores need a hone at all? If so, you might well be justified in getting some different pistons in order to get away from the ring supply problem. Whether you're happy to spend a lot more money right now, on more gear, rather than less money, but an amount that looks stupid given that you will only get a handful of rings in exchange for that money, is for you to decide.
    • also possibly backed up to my filler and shat down it! 🤣
    • Ok so i would love some advice here please, i purchased an R33 a few months back and its had a few mods done to the engine, its an RB25det running a Master ECU, 1200cc injectors, bigger turbo, oil cooler, oil filter relocation kit, Spool H-beam rods, acl/ross pistons. When i removed the motor from the vehicle (as its getting a respray) i thought i would compression test it and these are the following results. Cylinder 1-145psi, Cylinder 2-143psi, Cylinder 3-125psi, Cylinder 4-145psi, Cylinder 5-140psi, Cylinder 6-135psi this test was done with the motor on the ground and powering up the starter motor. I dropped the sump and found broken oil squirters on cylinder 3,5 and 6. I was told my rings are probably worn so i stripped the motor completely to get a new set of rings for it. The trouble is no one has these rings anywhere and they have to be custom made by Ross over in the states and will cost about $600+$200 delivery. My question is how can i tell if my rings are at fault and if they are still ok and is this price ok for a set of rings?
×
×
  • Create New...