Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

AGREED, the initial controler had the hole (one of me mates has got one of the origional ones) and latley it looks like he doesnt dril the holes no more. and well said cubes, thats exactly what happens when no hole is drilled.... so drill a hole if you dont have one and reep the benifits

  • Replies 1.8k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

this is a bit wierd, the last 65 pages states how good these perform, then in the last 5 pages, some of you say how crap they are until you drill a hole.

sounds to me you guys got no clue

we dont have a clue.. thats coming from a newbie that joined 3 months ago.. haha

anyway hopefully mark sent them today, havent got an email back from him yet :P but im sure hes swamped off his feet. so hope to see them soon. then ill do the testing :):huh:

one thing i have noticed since drillin the hole is that sometimes boost will only go to 10psi, other times will hit 15psi. Not sure whats goin on, seems to hit 15psi in 1,2nd gear but 3rd and 4th will only hit 10. I'm thinkin i might of drilled the hole a lil bit to far down and the hole is actually bleeding of the boost rather than the spring and ball bearing controllin the bleed rate.

might braze up the hole at work tommorrow and try drillin another one a lil further up.

one thing i have noticed since drillin the hole is that sometimes boost will only go to 10psi, other times will hit 15psi. Not sure whats goin on, seems to hit 15psi in 1,2nd gear but 3rd and 4th will only hit 10. I'm thinkin i might of drilled the hole a lil bit to far down and the hole is actually bleeding of the boost rather than the spring and ball bearing controllin the bleed rate.

might braze up the hole at work tommorrow and try drillin another one a lil further up.

How far down did you go?

i had a tear in one of my cooler joins (didnt know) i couldnt boost over 8psi no matter wat i did, even without gate connected it wouldnt go over 8 psi so i put one of these controllers on and it went to 12 psi no problem.

They must be a good controller if they can do that. Currently running 20 psi without a drama too

u had a tear and the controller fixed it or u fixed it and upped the boost :blush:?

mark has sent the controllers.. full right up by friday and ill do one on silvias

ill cover the RB25 RB26 (maybe) SR20 and CA18.. just the main nissan powerhouses...

I just received my ball and spring type MBC brought from trademe.co.nz it appears to be exactly the same as the ones mark is selling, this also came with the hole already drilled in the side, will try it out tonight, cant wait.

18324105_full.jpg

Holycrap, all I can say is if you don't have one of these, THEN GET ONE. Turbo response is incredible now. I'm never going to touch that GFB Atomic Boost Controller again.

I feel like taking the day off work and go driving all day now hahaha

arvo sau ive just recieved the controllers all 4.. and the quality seems to be quite good. ive attached a pic tell me if that looks right for install.. first im gonna try it on the GTR as the GTT is out with my bro and the S14 aint here.. so gtr test mule..

let me knw if it should go on like that.

ta mark.

post-25555-1172126594.jpg

done.. dw.. i installed it like in the pic. i also found a HKS T-piece off the fuel reg.. and a Greddy guage sender.. ok thats irrelevant.

Test Car.. 1990 BNR32 allmighty GTR.. Nismo exhaust, chipped ECU and steel wheeled turbos..

w/hole controller:

Upon first driving i noticed i ended up on boost reversing out of my driveway.. doesnt happen with nissan solenoid..

power is usable from around 2500rpm and full boost just shy of 3000rpm. and little lag between changes.. little lag at all.. its quite amazing. on the highway 100kph @ 2600rpm boost builds quite easially and fully ther at 3000rpm+.

it is set lower than what i was running prior to the test. 3psi or so lower but the torque is greater and all out car feels far more responsive and quicker than the stock solenoid.. (i am using the standard guage) noticed bleed off at around 5000rpm and it fluxuates as u rev on..

W/O the hole controller:

when i put it on the GTR it was set slightly lower on boost than the hole controller. initial response is good feels just as torquey as the holed controller. during up shifts the boost drops a bit more than the hole controller but not enough to whipe my smile.. unlike the holed controller ther is no spiking according to the gauge. boost is available from2500rpm upwards and full boost just shy of 3000rpm.

verdict:

I need another test car as the GTR doesnt seem to lag as much due to the TT set up. i will install these on the R34 and S14a and let you knw how it goes.

so far the holed controller seems to have a little bit more response but not enough to notice on the GTR, but sacrifices are made with spiking in the higher rpm band.

Both holed and non-holed controllers feel just as good as each other on the GTR but as i said the lag is not that noticable on the GTR. all up it is a massive and i mean MASSIVE improvement over the Nissan solenoid.

This is the best pic i could take while driving on boost lol.

can someone confirm how much PSI is going through her?

i will set them both to the same boost and install the same controllers on the R34 which is the lag kind..

stay tuned kids. :happy:

Mark.

post-25555-1172133429.jpg

Edited by markimak
can someone with a 33 post up a pic of how it is installed in theres? I have gone back through about 60 pages and all the links of pics dont work anymore.

Any help would be greatly appreciated

just replace the solenoid like i did

Edited by markimak

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • haha this shit box doesn't drink coolant, for now       Let me guess, they make heaps of power, use the car for straight line driving and don't care about noise
    • They’re so great that I know of someone pulling one out to go back to a sequential 
    • Hello everyone. I've recently started the research into R34 GTR front bits and running into eye watering prices. On the plus site it looks like some places make 'replacement' fender liners for these cars. At eye-watering-but-less than stock prices. I also noticed there's plenty of diffuser options available too. What I would like to know is if my following assumptions are correct. 1) The OEM guard liners are actually only 'half' the liner. They go together with the OEM brake vents which are a separate item which looks to be quite a large 'panel' that is part of the liner. The GTR bumper has bolt holes along the front. I assume the ones in the vent correspond to the ones the OEM liner does not have (circled?)   2) The V-Spec front diffuser supplants the brake ducts in the above item. I am assuming these still work with the guard liners as there's no alternate part that I'm aware of. I don't see how they go together, so I'm making the assumption that they have to, somehow. I know the center splash guard is different on the V-Spec (and is the price of the damn diffuser alone). How does the liner interact with this? 3) There's alternate front diffusers that do away with it all. Annoyingly, a lot of the clones and CF different ones... have no brake ducts on them. I like the idea of them though. My brakes get hot on the track. These alternate diffusers are a lot cheaper than plastic splash guards. I'm assuming you don't have to/aren't supposed to remove guard liners to run a diffuser. I suspect that quite a few people actually do not run the guard liner because with a front undertray you're getting a lot of 'splash' guarding anyway, and most people remove liners given they're probably running a pretty aggressive setup with a diffuser at the front. It would also be nice to know if anyone has ever run the 'reproduction' guard liners and know whether the fitment is OEM quality or "OEM Quality". Example: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/356254671561 https://carbonetics.net/products/nissan-skyline-r34-gtr-plastic-front-wheel-arch-set Is this knowledge still around?
    • Really, effort is pretty low. You hand fistfuls of cash over to someone else and pick it up when done...   And at least this shitbox isn't drinking coolant right?  
    • And most chargers that most DIY people own would put bugger all power back into the battery between cylinders. I've always done it with jumper packs/second battery connected. And that's on any car.   Because race car, and wanting the lightness.  At least in an R33, putting a bigger battery in can at least help shift the weight balance backwards  
×
×
  • Create New...