Jump to content
SAU Community

  

311 members have voted

You do not have permission to vote in this poll, or see the poll results. Please sign in or register to vote in this poll.

Recommended Posts

Supra 98 model RZ, with 19in wheels....38K. VVTi and all that.

Car was immaculate. Still maybe for sale. If your interested I'll pass on the guys details to you.

had a look at a few today. Some shocking examples.

Im going for the 2JZ (with vvti) over the RB25det (went thru same delemma as well). The 2JZ really is technologically miles more advanced than the GT-T in every respect. Its also far more advanced than the rb26dett.

Sequentail turbos, lots of torque down low, much better components (which is why its bullet proof) and larger capacity.

  • Replies 148
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

only reason i ended up with the gtst is due to the turbo & price, once you go turbo, there is no goin back to a NA. The 2jz is a strong engine - but the NA i think is boring.

Having said that - put a RZ and a r33/r34 gtr side by side, i would not have a clue as to what to go for - I like them both. But now that the new gtr is coming out - i think the supra maybe a little out dated.....hmmm...as you can see...even when im writing this, i have no idea what I would buy.....

Good choice Tracid. Those who are saying they'd rather a GT-T need to drive a 2JZ turbo car :P When deciding on a car to buy, i only JUST chose an R33 over an older MA70 Supra with a 1JZ conversion, and that was only because the interior was a shocker (main thing) and i didn't like the back of it. The only thing that puts me off a Supra RZ is the interior. The JZ series engines are awesome.

Though Supra RZ vs (any) GT-R is a tougher decision IMO.

Yeah, I would take an RZ over a 34 GTT any day. Although the 34 is newer, it reminds me too much of a 33 (very upright driving position), whereas the Supra 'feels' like a sports car, while at the same time, being a road rocket.

Good choice.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Harness is for a s1 Rb25det, and it is engine and lower harness.  the old harness had broken off plugs and was in very rough condition/exposed wires and splices etc. it is not able to be put back on the car, I could visually inspect to see if they had rewired any pins on the ecu plug. The fuel pump definitly isn’t turning off it’s an external pump and very loud you can hear it. Will look at the other harness tonight, am also going to pull the fuel rail and watch the injectors spray, will update here with what I find. Pretty sure at this point it has to be something to do with injectors because car will fire up on starting fluid and cas is clicking the Injectors. Fuel pressure is steady 43psi 
    • Check the injectors flow evenly, and are actually flowing what you and the ECU think they should be flowing. If it's starting up on starter fluid, you have a fuel issue. Is it possible under cranking your fuel pump is turning off?   The harness you replaced, is that the whole engine harness? Do yourself a test, and drop the old harness on and plug it into the Z32 ECU. It's possible they've wired things different. From memory S1 to S2 is different in RB25 and you may have a wrong loom
    • I haven’t pulled the injectors to watch them spray yet but they are clicking from the cas and all of the spark plugs are wet with fuel. I’ve thought the cylinders were being flooded from the beginning and was hoping fuel pressure would fix it. Tonight I am going to pull the rail and watch the injectors spray. Don’t know how to test/diagnose if the plugs are firing in correct sequence but that should be a timing thing and as far as timing goes my car still has the half moon for the cas can only install it 1 way. And my mechanical timing is 100% correct I posted photos above. Confirmed with the balancer on and off. 
    • I checked spark on all cylinders and they all visually have spark with the plug pulled and grounded, but plug 1 is the only one that fouled. This was a running swap that blew up and was rebuilt by a machine shop, put a new wiring specialties harness and did all gaskets, studs, and bolts while it was out.  compression is 135-150 across all cylinders. Aside from that from my understanding with the z32 ecu and maf the car should start regardless. The wiring for TPS and the dual 02 sensor/ dual knock sensor stuff shouldn’t actually stop the car from starting or even running well, (just slightly rich)  they just give fault codes. Car supposedly is supposed to start as long as you have z32 afm and ecu with the nistune base map and that’s info coming from a well known and trusted tuner who does a lot with SR/RB (Rsenthalpy). After more trouble shooting today where I’m at right now is that the cas is sending signal to the injectors they click while spinning the rotor, Fuel pressure is now set at 43psi, all cylinders have good compression and all of the plugs looked great (just wet with fuel) except for cylinder 1 which was very black (cylinder 1 has 150psi compression). all of the coils generate spark if pulled out and grounded out on the head. On the fuel pump car just pops into the exhaust. On starting fluid car will fire off. Hard to tell if all cylinders are firing off but definitley a couple. sounds like all of them but it’s only for 3-5 seconds hard to tell. 
×
×
  • Create New...