Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ok

i took this r32 gts-t today for a drive

its incredible, the boost and torque, i know its nothing new to you guys but it was my first time in a turbo charged car.

but the car seems a lil dodgy

the engine plates says its a rb20de

but it clearly has a turbo

mods that i could see were:

big blue pod air filter

3" cat back full exhaust

gtr FMIC

heavy duty clutch

17" colour coded rims

and sposedly the guy said the turbo has been tweaked around with or it might even be replaced with a bigger turbo

but im not too sure about this car. i want to buy it tho.

im thinking it was a non turbo r32 gts cos it has the blue GT badges on the side

and the engine was replaced with a rb20det

or a turbo was just bolted on to the original rb20de

but im leaning towards it being a replaced engine because the kms are 60k kms which is pretty low for a 92 car.

But yeah its black which i love and the guy is located clive st Westall along center rd

jus wanna know what you guys think.

It drives great but it idles a bit too low for my liking. ( Bloody stalled it 2 times! haha) and i gotta get used to that heavy clutch

any advice people? price about 16k covers everything including rego but can prolli get it lower.

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/7356-is-this-ok-r32-gts-t/
Share on other sites

So, if your car gets stolen and written off.. you get a whole $5000 back on a $16,000 car... sounds fair doesnt it?

Depends, then again if you're paying $5000 on insurance a year (which they do quote to young guys) its going to have to be a pretty serious accident to totally write off the car. 3 years times at least $4000 is going to cost you the value of that car... so well depends.

The whole "third party fire and theft" thing covering up to only $5000 or whatever is ridiculous, you may as well not have the theft part as its so token.

plz dun turn this into insurance thread. go post in the other threads. Im not gonna pay 5k a year to insure a car. its not worth it for a 10 year old car. Third party will do fine. it will be my fault entirely if i get the car smacked and i deserve to have it written off. which is why im not planning to smack this car. If it gets smacked it won't be my fault, it will be the other persons fault. I want to drive carefully.

but phew taking it for a run today was such a breath taker. meggala!!!

what color is dr drift selling his r32? and is he selling cheaper price with rego? and where is he located?

if u can find same car with same mods cheaper price ill be really grateful b'cos lately r32s have been really hard to find a decent one. And i dun wanna take the risk of importing incase it arrives late and i have to bypass the new laws in Feburary which will screw everything up.

and sposedly the guy said the turbo has been tweaked around with or it might even be replaced with a bigger turbo

hahaha u gotta be carefull when used car sales men start talking like this! Usually it means 'I dont know what i am talking about, i am just saying to you so u buy the car'

:)

yeah ill ask the guy tomolo

yeah the idling was a bit weird

when i was reversing and like holding the clutch in, the idle kept alternating between 0 and 1000 rpm

but ill take a proper look tomolo

and report back

and take down the engine number

you can have my car for $15k :) (no seriously)

mostly stock cept for 2.5 inch mandrel bent exhaust n extractors, dun 50k km (got it with 39k genuine kms)

Sounds like you've got a GTS that's got a turbo kit bolted on (exactly like meggala's), which means you'll never get a stock turbo on it.

The dealers pulling your tail if he reckons its never been trashed. The only reason sumone would turbo a GTS is if they wanted it to go faster and if it did go faster I'm SURE they'd have trashed it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...