Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just finished replacing the timing belt on my R33 rb25det and I'm having trouble bleedint he cooling system. I have undone the bleed screw and I took the radiator cap off.

I then ran the car for about 5mins. It doesn't seem to stop the bubbling and the temp hasn't moved off full cold.

I pluffed the coolant temp sensor back in. Do I have to use the bleed screw or can I just leave the radiator cap off and that will work (what I have done in other cars)

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/73584-bleeding-cooling-systemplease-help/
Share on other sites

You need to use something like a coke bottle cut in half and hold it into the radiator filler neck, then undo the bleeder nipple (not all the way, just enough to let the air out) and fill up the coke bottle. This makes the high point up front and forces the air out through the lower area (bleeder). Do this after the thermostat has opened for best results but be careful that you don't burn yourself.

Thanks for that. A few odd things though

1. I don't know why but the temp doesn't seem to some up above a fraction over C even after idling for about 5 mins. I thought the thermostat was ok before I did the timing belt.

2. What reading does the gauge go off a temp sensor in the block somewhere? I left the one in the radiator when I flushed it with the garden hose - could this hae wrecked it?

3. The top radiator hose is nice and warm but the bottom is quite cool

What's the go you think..?

I'll do the coke bottle thing and try not taking the screw right out

I hope I haven't damaged anything - I made sure that I filled up the block by shooting coolant/water mix through the top radiator hose. Most I've run it for is abit over 5minutes

1. I don't know why but the temp doesn't seem to some up above a fraction over C even after idling for about 5 mins. I thought the thermostat was ok before I did the timing belt.

I find the car warms up best when starting it then driving off for a short drive.

3. The top radiator hose is nice and warm but the bottom is quite cool

What's the go you think..?

That your radiator is working as it should :D Thats the way the water flows....

Make sure you filled the overflow bottle up too, and one last thing i do is squeeze the top hose so the waters right at the top as i screw the cap on. Then i know theres no bubbles :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey all  im wondering if you can help me please I have put a rb20 box in my r34 gtt as my auto packed up and a friend had a spare box I know it’s not ideal but it will get me up and running for now. we have done the conversation and everything is working great but my Speedo we got a s13 speed sensor but my Speedo reads double now and I bought a speed converter but still not having any luck.  so I thought I’ll reach out and pick your brains  any help would be appreciated please as I wanna drive my car again 
    • Drain it. I got official Matic D but you can get whatever is listed as Matic D compatible.
    • Thanks guys,  Yeah I should at least have them dynoed, at least then I know what I've got as a starting point.  The springs on these are hard as rocks. I vaguely remember Russman saying he was going to sell the shocks to me with the rocks fitted, as he was keeping the softer springs for his new setup.  I didn't click at the time but of course that was to let me know the shock/spring wouldn't be matched.  I also remember pricing up new springs around 2014-15, but, house, money etc. it never happened. So that was another reason to have them rebuilt. I have rebuilt the forks on many motorcycles so I think I could handle the seals on these easily enough, but getting the valving right would be a rabbit hole I cbf exploring.  Duncan, interesting to hear RP was tuning these back then. I might give them a call.  In the mean time I have been busy fitting sway bars. The Whiteline rear sway bar I purchased 15 years ago finally got fitted, along with the Whiteline front bar that showed up last week. Just waiting on new links for the front sway bar to finish that off.  And my spare set of advan AVS VS5's should be back from the powder coaters in a Pearl White finish sometime this week, with a set of Hankook RS4's lined up for fitting.  And then I just have all the suspension bushes to do. A comprehensive kit is on the way... Lots to do before the Ararat hill climb. Cheers guys 🍻   
    • Nice car! I’m glad folks in the US have gotten past the FnF and are buying real cool cars like the 260RS I was with a bunch of mates in Portland about a year ago and spotted a green Stagea (just a regular 2.5T AWD) parked about 2 blocks away and they were like “a what?” So I made a bet with them for a round of beers and said “ok one of you run down there and tell me if the steering wheel is on the correct side” 5 mins later the American comes trudging back up the hill and goes “he’s right guys. Ok what beer do you want?”
    • Should replace OR drop the tank, give it's good clean. Might be worth replacing that entire fuel level/pump/cradle thing with this: https://frenchysperformancegarage.com/products/fpg-s13-180sx-r32gtst-single-pump-hanger-kit-billet-hat-6-v3-fpg-089?gQT=2  
×
×
  • Create New...