Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 330
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Continued down to wisemans on Mona's directions, and have no idea how i got into leading the pack, but THANKS MONA, for sending us to the WRONG side of wisemans LOL.....ill let you off though cause you caught us a ferry :)

;) hey!! its not my fault!!! it was either that or make you head back to hornsby to take galston to wisemans.. that'd take forever.. nooone would have waiting :D plus i knew the ferry would get you to the right side of the woods! ;)

i say stick with the candy red idea thomas.

too many people want purple! i'd prefer bayside than it.

i agreee!!!!! that purple is going on myyy car!!! don't copy me thomas!!!!! :P

hahaha dean thats cause he has "minties mods"......done on his battery and fuel pump... ;)

hehhe hey i just got my car back ok.!! have to test it out!!!at one stage i freak out..shit man i stuck in the mid of the bush for de nite...i was last in the pack so everyone were nowhere to be seen, lucky some of my mate drove back to check up on me...

mona.........and thomas.........purple car................i want to see that......hehehhe

mona....get hot pink!!!!!hot pink hot pink hot pink hot pink

;) thats a lil too girly for my liking :D

and i'm soo jealous of liz's green bum!!!! i've been trying to get my 'skyline' to do that for awhile!! i've got the back panel and everything!!! i'll get it soon :P

Hey Mintie it was good to see you again I heard your car had a identity change ;)

Need to put the finishing touches on mine, waiting on cooler piping from japan, and then a bit more bits and pieces wire up AFMs, put back radiator, fluids etc and it'll be back!! Can't wait

LOL woot Phantom colour skylines, nah nah, dont do it, its gonna look crap.....besides, like who would drive a purple car *checks in the garage then hides LOL*.

Oh yeah, lol i did offer to scout........meh, its a ford, nobody looks twice at it, i had less change of getting pulled over then you guys did........after all, its stock ;)

Mintie, too bad you didnt cruise back with me and Damo ..... hahaha, you would have loved it :D

Hey Mona, next time you go to the creek, let me know, if ive changed my clutch by then, (and hopefully my gear box) ill be down.

good cruise guys, pitty the cops ***ed it up for us. and next time ill draw a map for everyone to follow. I kinda forget that most of u ppl dont know the area. Has anyone talked to the guy in the s15? i wanna know what happened to him.

good to go down to wisemans ferry, ive wanted to cheack that and the gorge out, not bad except nearly getting smashed in the rear going round one of the hairpins, but that guy is good at breaking, ill give im that much :-P

had anyone get any more photos? my car wasnt in them once *cry

hope everyone had a good time, just need to find away to make sure the cops dont stop up next time....




  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
×
×
  • Create New...