Adj Camshaft Pulley & New Cam Belt

[foznice]

lol ok.

[Topaz]

2 teeth is a lot more than 4 degrees, more like 15 degrees

I count 48 teeth on my cam gears (I have TOMEI's, assuming they are the same for Os Giken, HKS etc) and 360/48 is 7.5. So 2 teeth is in fact 15 degrees

[Munna1]

did you ever get it on the dyno SK

cheers

[Topaz]

SK, do you have any shots or info on removal and reinstallation of the fan/belts etc before actually getting to the lower cover and timing belt....

[Sydneykid]

did you ever get it on the dyno SK

cheers

Not yet, soon, I just have a few more bits to add. I have been road tuning it with the Tech Edge A/F ratio meter.

cheers

SK, do you have any shots or info on removal and reinstallation of the fan/belts etc before actually getting to the lower cover and timing belt....

Nope, it's not the compicated, what is it you want to know?

cheers

[Topaz]

Nope, it's not the compicated, what is it you want to know?

cheers

I don't know where to start, I can't even see how the fan comes off. Just need to know generally how to loosen and tighten them back up. I can see myself ending up with squeaky belts here.

I am a very detailed person, for example I didn't know that the bottom half circle of the fan shroud unclips. I actually undid the screws holding the shroud to the radiator before removing it

Also, how do I turn the engine to BTDC?

[Sydneykid]

I don't know where to start, I can't even see how the fan comes off. Just need to know generally how to loosen and tighten them back up. I can see myself ending up with squeaky belts here.

I am a very detailed person, for example I didn't know that the bottom half circle of the fan shroud unclips. I actually undid the screws holding the shroud to the radiator before removing it

Also, how do I turn the engine to BTDC?

The viscous fan drive is bolted to the water pump pulley by 4 bolts with 10 mm heads, I remove the fan and the drive hub all at once. ie; there is no need to remove the fan itself from the viscous hub.

The alternator, water pump and air con compressor all have adjustable tension. Note the amount of tension before you touch them, so that you can duplicate it when reassembling. The usual method is to measure the slack, around 5 to 10 mm side to side is normal.

Undo, but don’t remove, the retaining bolts (bottom) on the alternator and water pump brackets. Then loosen the adjuster, move them in towards the engine and remove the belts. The air con compressor has an external tensioner, undo its bolt, slacken it off and remove the belt.

Remove the spark plugs and turn it over by hand (socket and ratchet) using the harmonic balancer retaining bolt.

If you want to do more engine bay work, I strongly suggest that you buy a translated workshop manual, best $100 you will spend.

cheers

[Topaz]

OK thanks for that. I still need to find these bolts and things.

Remove SP's before turning engine, why? Do they stop the engine turning?

Surely they won't fire with the car off.

I do have the 800 page R32 service manual, but that has no explanations either, it just says 'to do it'

cheers.

[colgf]

Thank You for an absolutely superb post!!!!!! It took me 2 hours to find it in the website but now I have bookmarked it as I am about to "Have a go" at replacing my belt on my r33 gts-t 4 door. A million thanks , you must be helping heaps of diy's on this subject. Regards.....Col...

[colgf]

Well, I have just changed my Cam Belt & I would like to say its not as straight forward as one thinks , Firstly , just about every bolt on my engine was done up SUPER tight!!!! So make sure you have good quality spanners, sockets etc. My biggest problem was trying to undo the HUGE bolt that holds the crankshaft Pulley/Harmonic Balancer on... I couldnt figure out how to stop the crank from rotating whilst trying to get the bolt undone (auto transmission,so couldnt lock the car en gine in gear)- ended up making a steel lock plate up out of 1/4 inch thick by 1 inch wide by about 9 inches long with a couple of holes either end & bent to go between the pulley front face & a bolt on the power steering mount assy , I screwed a nut/bolt thru the plate ,sticking out far enough to protrude into one of the cutout holes on the crank pulley, & bolted at the other end of the plate to the power steer bracket. That effectively locked the crankshaft enough to undo the crank bolt which must have been torqued up to about 300ft/lbs!!!!!!! I used a 15 inch breaker bar to undo it!!!!!!!! I couldnt use the hammer /rattle gun as it wont fit between the engine & air cond condenser radiator!!!! Also , be prepared to have to change your fan/power steer/air cond belts too as mine were all well worn & cracked on the inner sides of the belts. They arent easy to get either, not sold over counter & have to be ordered from Repco. Also my bottom radiator hose was stuffed & had to be replaced , again not easy to get......So there you go- other than that the new cam belt went on quite easily, dont forget there is an adjustable pulley to tension the new belt , its the left-hand one looking at the engine from the front rearwards- its loosened by undoing its front nut & there is a little allen key hole below the nut to wind it tighter/looser as required then tighten the nut again, DONT do it up too tight as you will get a lot of belt noise when the engine is running , allow plus/minus 5mm flex on longest run of the belt using one finger pressure only. My old belt was quite loose on the pulleys so was a good time to change it (car had done genuine 90000klms , ) so dont delay changing it !!!!!!

[psi]

Hi SK,

I just read the whole thread, and like EVERYBODY else, would be very interested in a before and after dyno sheet. I hear you loud and clear about buying a Wheelie-bin full of time. If you buy some time, can i buy some as well!

I am about to do the conversion (along with 4 or so other things) so it will be hard for me to do a comparison. I normally try to test on the same bit of road with a stop watch, and get my copilot to take some readings... but there is only so many daylight hours to do such things and I will be left no option but to do ALL the current jobs at once. The end result should be a delightful outcome. Even though it is not my prefered method to gain that outcome!

U have inspired me to take photo's and post the mods i do, Great work.

Any other thoughts..

[Sydneykid]

Hi SK,

I just read the whole thread, and like EVERYBODY else, would be very interested in a before and after dyno sheet. I hear you loud and clear about buying a Wheelie-bin full of time. If you buy some time, can i buy some as well!

I am about to do the conversion (along with 4 or so other things) so it will be hard for me to do a comparison. I normally try to test on the same bit of road with a stop watch, and get my copilot to take some readings... but there is only so many daylight hours to do such things and I will be left no option but to do ALL the current jobs at once. The end result should be a delightful outcome. Even though it is not my prefered method to gain that outcome!

U have inspired me to take photo's and post the mods i do, Great work.

Any other thoughts..

Time has marched on since I did the pulley and belt. I have done a few extra mods since then, so no before and after dyno results are going to be possible. I do have one more dyno run to go after I fit the split dump/engine pipe. If I have time I will try the adj exhaust camshaft pulley in a couple of positions and then pick the one that suites me. Remember I use the Stagea for towing the race car, so I am more interested in an extra 15rwkw at 4,000 rpm that 20 rwkw at 6,500 rpm.

cheers

[3intheBack]

If you buy some time, can i buy some as well!

I'm very sorry mr psi but this is a 'STAGEA' thread, no R33's allowed.

You will have to bug off back to your own forum.

Dont complain about time, 'cause now the whole world knows that you finish work at 3.00pm

P.S. I'm just jealous that SK replied to one of your posts!!

Edited February 3, 2007 by 3intheBack

[psi]

Warren u silly coot,

mite i ask who fixes ur Stagea and fits very very cheap parts for u? hmm.. I DO! Some mate u r!!

I would also like to add that i finish at 3.30! ha! even though i start at 5.50am! and i work lots of saturdays! Some of those days are WASTED on ur yellow volvo!

I'm also starting an internet suspension business.. and run skid days.. and fix dungers for people who cant afford to fix them. do u? no! u just sit in ur air con office and sometimes drive a diesel powered junker full of kids! ha ha! U call that work??

So wozza, what else do u need for that yellow volvo? ohh, ur rear camber bushes will be here monday.. & the price just went up! hmm... and who is gonna fit them? probably ME! my poor car is never gonna get any new mods at this rate!

Thanks for the info SK! When i do the rear camber bushes or the stagea, we'll take some foto's and post them up. Last weekend we fitted pineapples.. but we both forgot to take a camera, Hopefully we can reinstall them for some photo's for those who want to do it themselves!

Any other thoughts..

[3intheBack]

Any other thoughts..

I think someone's feeling hormonal.. he he

But I do appreciate your help, any time spent on the 'yellow volvo' is never wasted. At least it's a good test mule, it's all for a good cause, helps the environment, contributes to a reduction in green house gases, lowers the national debt.

I think we need to take this to the wasteland....

...sorry SK

[psi]

Yeah sorry about writing about unrelated subjects.

The Shims u refer to for the intake cam. What are they, and how do they work? what are they worth to purchase? Are they worth the money? How much 'adjustment' can they give u?

So many Q's! Cheers.

[psi]

After you changed the pulley, did the dip in the power curve change?

[Adriano]

Im certain that some rb25's have adjustment on the intake vct cam pulley, ive seen it, unless it was modded, but it looked standard. The adjustment was on the back of the pulley where the outer part of the pulley attaches to the center vct part, the holes wewre slotted. Has anyone else seen this?

[Sydneykid]

Im certain that some rb25's have adjustment on the intake vct cam pulley, ive seen it, unless it was modded, but it looked standard. The adjustment was on the back of the pulley where the outer part of the pulley attaches to the center vct part, the holes wewre slotted. Has anyone else seen this?

They are standard, you just can't get to them without dismantling the VVT actuator. Bass Junky sells an adaptor ring that enables you to do it without the hassle.

Cheers

[_Ryan_]

conclusion?