Jump to content
SAU Community

Looking for Brake Specialist Shop

3R1K

By 3R1K,
in Western Australia

 Share

Recommended Posts

Boostzor Grand Master

Boostzor

Posted
Posted

Found bendix fade a bit too much, yes the ultimates or premiums or whatever they call em now.

Really liked "Green Stuff" by EBC and hear that u cant go past race brakes RB26's which are well priced too. I think both of those pads are semi organic.

Steve Grand Master

Steve

Posted
Posted

My personal favourite is Endless SS-S, low dust, great initial bite, progressive and rated to 500deg C, so not likely to fade on the street. Oh, and they wont chew the ass out of your rotors either. I have also found project Mu are pretty good, not quite the same intial bite as endless, but otherwise on a par. I have also tried bendix and greenstuff, didnt think alot of them (personally), better than stock though, but dusty and seemed to wear rotors like there is no tomorrow.

your brakes will perform ALOT better with good pads than if you upgrade and use normal pads, (I went from stock SR20 brakes with project Mu pads to stock R32 brakes, and the SR20/project Mu combo pissed on the stock R32 setup) Once I fitted endless pads it was a different story though. Good brake pads are an excellent upgrade.

I would recommend getting the best you can afford, what price your life? cheap insurance and alot more fun driving the car.

Abo Bob Grand Master

Abo Bob

Posted
Posted

I don't think it's your Ultimates that fade. I've never experienced fade in my Skyline and that's all I've used so far. I've been to about 10 track days and as everyone around my area and on this site can attest, I drive my car hard.

Steve Grand Master

Steve

Posted
Posted

there are more factors to whether or not a brake pad will fade than just the pads, tyres, driving style, how tight the track is etc.

Your pads are obviously ok for how you use them, but not in Boostzor's case. I have know other people that have had fade on ultimates (so they told me), even though I didnt get it.

Alot of variables.

Boostzor Grand Master

Boostzor

Posted
Posted

Yeh if the rotors are bigder they are going to dissapate more heat, so if they are thin they fade faster. When i had them they were on a jza70 and the rotors were about half way done. After 3 hard brakes u could feel it fading.

As steve said though, EBC ab RB chew rotors good. Too bad the endless are so expensive.

sexzila Veteran

sexzila

Posted
Posted

I would recomend do it youself or get one of your friends to do it Erik.

Just got back from the place in Bayswater (no name)......whata bunch of cowboys.....

They frucked one of my wheel nuts and their reasoning was " who did your wheels before" and that is after they takend them off , put them back on, and took the car to do the alignment....

.....and then they had decency to tell me its ware and tare..........dick****fiths.........:cheers:

All that: for them to tellme there is nothing wrong with my car.......

Well I get to the breakes now. I ask them why is one of my brake pads bent inside after I replaced them ....... and the guy tells me we are specialists but I don't know!!!

Whata???

So after spending so much money on different barke specialists that know fruck all...

Wheel alignment specialists......same......fruck all.....

So much for pro help.....

I have decided from now on, even with not much time these days I am doing it myself.....

Read the forums guys, ask for the manual if you need one, I have one, so does Paul and few more other people. DIY!!!

Steve Grand Master

Steve

Posted
Posted

Boostzor, endless may be a bit pricey, but stack up well against others when you consider the money you save in not having to replace your rotors so often - more rotor = better brakes :rofl:

Abo Bob, bigger rotors can make a difference, both in thickness and diameter, as can the design. Take for example the 'roo paw' (or whatever its bloody called) design of DBA rotors - they spent alot of time and effort trying to improve the cooling efficiency of the rotor. Then you have the material that the rotor is made of which also makes a difference.

If you have aftermarket/upgraded rotors, there could definately be a difference.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Slight brake pedal stutter after new pads

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Jack the back of the car up, pull that wheel off, pull that sensor out, and put a bore scope into the hole to inspect the outer casing, see if anything looks damaged before you pull the whole thing apart.
    • PranK
      Slight brake pedal stutter after new pads

      By PranK · Posted

      Ergh... So I pulled the speed sensor out again and the tip was shiny so I think it's rubbing the bearing. The bearing contains the magnets for the speed sensor so I think when the first sensor broke it damaged the magnet ring on the bearing.  This is just a Google image, but there is a hole going to the bearing. So when the tip broke off the old sensor I'm guessing it fouled the bearing... As the magnet is only protected by a plastic cover it would be easy to damage it. So I guess I'm doing a bearing again.   
    • GTSBoy
      Unknown sound similar to BOV on positive boost with partial throttle RB26

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      My thinking is that if the O2 sensor is shot then your entire above described experience is pure placebo.
    • silviaz
      Steps to DIY sanding car back ready for respray....

      By silviaz · Posted

      Here is the mess that I made. That filler there was successful in filling dents in that area. But in the middle area. I can feel dents. And I've gone ocer it multiple times with filler. And the filler is no longer there because i accidently sanded it away. I've chased my tail on this job but this is something else lol. So I'm gonna attempt filler one more time and if it doesn't work I'll just high fill primer the door and see where the issues are because guidecoat is of no use atm.
    • silviaz
      Steps to DIY sanding car back ready for respray....

      By silviaz · Posted

      Ok, so I think I sort of figured out where I went wrong. So I definitely overthinked it, and I over sanded, which is probably a large part of the problem. to fix it, I ended up tapping some spots that were likely to be high, made them low, filled them in, and I tackled small sections at a time, and it feels a lot better.    I think what confused me as well is you have the bare metal, and some spots darker and some are lighter, and when I run my finger across it, it' would feel like it's a low spot, but I think it's just a transition in different texture from metal to body filler.    When your finger's sliding on the body filler, and crosses over to the bare metal, going back and forth, it feels like it's a low spot. So I kept putting filler there and sanding, but I think it was just a transition in texture, nothing to do with the low or high spot. But the panel's feels a lot better, and I'm just going to end up priming it, and then I'll block it after with guide coat.   Ended up wasting just about all of my filler on this damn door lol  
×
×
  • Create New...